Travel/POI: Zion National Park (錫安國家公園), Utah - Introductions, Court of the Patriarchs, Riverside Walk, Narrows

Zion National Park is located in southwestern Utah near the town of Springdale. Zion, the oldest of Utah’s five National Parks, was named after an ancient Hebrew word meaning “fortification”, "refuge", “sanctuary.” How did the name of Zion National Park come about? Human habitation of the area started about 8,000 years ago with small family groups of Native Americans then moved away by 1300. Mormon missionaries from Salt Lake City came into the area in 1858 and settled there in the early 1860s. In 1863, Isaac Behunin built a one-room cabin near the current site of Zion Lodge and began farming tobacco, sugar cane and fruit. It was Behunin who named the canyon Zion, saying, “These great mountains are natural temples of God. We can worship here as well as in the man-made temples at Zion, the biblical heavenly ‘City of God.’” In 1909, President William Howard Taft named the area Mukuntuweap National Monument in order to protect the canyon. In tribute to local Hopi legend, Methodist Minister Frederick Vining Fisher also named a few sandstone mountain and rock formations as Altar of Sacrifice, The Great White Throne, and Angels Landing in 1916 when he visited the area. In 1918, the acting director of the newly created National Park Service, Horace Albright, drafted a proposal to enlarge the existing monument and change the park's name to Zion National Monument, Zion being a term used by the Mormons. According to historian Hal Rothman: "The name change played to a prevalent bias of the time. Many believed that Spanish and Indian names would deter visitors who, if they could not pronounce the name of a place, might not bother to visit it.” On November 19, 1919, Congress redesignated the monument as Zion National Park, and the act was signed by President Woodrow Wilson.

錫安國家公園位於猶他州西南部，靠近斯普林代爾鎮 (Springdale)。錫安國家公園是猶他州五個國家公園中最早的一個，以古希伯來語單字命名，意思是「防禦工事」、「避難所」、「聖殿」。錫安國家公園的名字是怎麼來的？這地區大概在8,000年前就有人居住，當時美洲原住民的小家庭群居於此，之後於1300年遷離。1858年來自鹽湖城的摩門教傳教士來到這地區，1860年代初定居於此。1863年艾薩克·貝胡寧 (Isaac Behunin) 在錫安小屋 (Zion Lodge) 現址附近建造了一間單間小屋，並開始種植菸草、甘蔗和水果。貝胡寧將峽谷命名為錫安，他說：「這些偉大的山脈是上帝的天然聖殿。我們可以在這裡敬拜，也可以在聖經中有神聖‘上帝之城’之稱的錫安所在的人造聖殿中敬拜。” 1909年威廉·霍華德·塔夫脫總統將這一地區命名為米鄺杜域 (Mukuntuweap) 國家紀念碑，以保護峽谷。為了向當地霍皮人 (Hopi) 的傳說表示敬意，衛理公會部長 Frederick Vining Fisher 於 1916 年訪問這地區時，也將一些砂岩山和岩層命名為祭壇 (Altar of Sacrifice)、白色大寶座 (The Great White Throne) 和天使降臨之頂 (Angels Landing)。1918年新成立的國家公園管理局代理局長霍勒斯·奧爾布賴特（Horace Albright）起草了一份提案，擴大現有紀念碑地區，並將公園更名為錫安國家紀念碑（Zion National Monument），「錫安」是摩門教徒的用詞。歷史學家哈爾·羅斯曼(Hal Rothman) 說：「更改次地區的名稱是迎合了當時普遍存在的偏見。許多人認為，西班牙和印第安的名字會阻擋了遊客，因為如果他們無法說出某個地方的名字，他們可能就不會想去參觀”。1919年11月19日，國會將這座紀念碑重新命名為錫安國家公園，這個法案由威爾遜 (Woodrow Wilson) 總統簽署。

Left to Right: The West Temple, The Sundial, The Witch Head, Altar of Sacrifice

Zion National Park could be called a heaven on earth, formed by millions of years of erosion, its exceptional rock formations, plethora of backcountry trails and unique wildlife beckon those seeking solitude and inspiration. Here is also a hiker’s and photographer’s dream - the stunning sandstone canyons of the park, painted in natural hues of pink, red and tan, stretch to 2,000 feet at their tallest point. There are plenty of ways to enjoy the park, such as taking a scenic drive for breathtaking panoramic views, backpacking, birding, camping, hiking, and horseback riding. This time in 2023 we decided to start our adventure from The Narrows, the narrowest section of Zion Canyon. This gorge, with walls a thousand feet tall and the river sometimes just twenty to thirty feet wide, is one of the most popular areas in Zion National Park. This hiking route involves wading across the Virgin River and you will definitely get your feet wet. Water level fluctuates greatly from year to year and day to day depending on rainfall and snowmelt. The Narrows are also susceptible to flash flooding because much of the surrounding area is bare rock that does not absorb water. Therefore, always check the weather forecast and flash flood potential before you go. With knee deep crossings on the slippery and uneven river bottom with frequent pools up to waist deep, close-toed shoes and a hiking stick are recommended for hiking the Narrows. High canyon walls and water create cooler conditions than anywhere else in Zion Canyon, so wear and bring seasonally appropriate synthetic layers. Check Virgin River Narrows Safety page for more equipment and clothing recommendations. You can also opt to rent packages from multiple companies outside the park that include river-specific shoes, neoprene socks, a walking pole and dry pants or bibs from $25 to $50 per day, depending on your package. Hiking in the Narrows upstream as far as Big Spring does not require a permit, however, if you want to do a one- or two-day hike from top down, that does require both a permit and transportation for the one and a half hour ride to start the hike outside the park at Chamberlain's Ranch. For us, we brought our own walking sticks, water shoes and a waterproof pouch to protect the cell phone. That is good enough for us. Although the water was a bit turbulent and cold, the rocks and stones under my feet were uneven and slippery, every step I took was as scary as walking on thin ice and I was afraid of slipping into the water accidentally, it was a memorable and unforgettable experience. At my age, if I don't go now, when will I? So, how to get to the Narrows? We first drove to the Zion Visitor Center and took the shuttle bus because Zion Canyon Scenic Drive is only accessible by shuttle. It's best to arrive at the visitor center very early in the morning, otherwise you won't be able to find a free parking space. We arrived at 9 o'clock and had to park outside the park for $40/day. Or you can park in Springdale and ride the free Zion Canyon Shuttle System to enter at the pedestrian entrance. There are a total of 9 stops on the Zion Canyon Line. We took the ninth stop, the Temple of Sinawava, and walked 0.9 miles on Riverside Walk to the Narrows.

錫安國家公園堪稱人間天堂，經過數百萬年的侵蝕、風化、腐蝕而形成，有其獨特的岩層、無數人迹罕至的步道和獨特的野生動物，吸引了那些尋求獨處和靈感的人們。這裏也是健行者和攝影師的夢想之地 - 公園裡有令人驚嘆的砂岩峽谷有粉紅色、紅色和棕褐色的天然色彩，最高處高至2,000英尺。遊覽公園的方式有很多種，例如開車欣賞令人驚嘆的公園全景、背包旅行、觀鳥、露營、健行和騎馬。2023年這次，我們決定從 Narrows -- 錫安峽谷最狹窄的部分, 開始我們的冒險經歷。這個峽谷的牆壁有一千英尺高，河流有時只有二十到三十英尺寬，是錫安國家公園最受歡迎的地區之一。這個健行路線需要在維琴河 (Virgin River) 上涉水而過，所以你的腳一定會被弄濕。水位每年、每天都有很大的波動，取決於降雨和融雪等多種因素。Narrows 也容易遭受山洪爆發，因為周圍大部分地區都是裸露的岩石，不吸水。所以要去之前，請務必事先查訊天氣預報和山洪爆發的可能性。Narrows 河底濕滑且凹凸不平，走在及膝的河床上，而且經常可及腰深，建議在涉水時穿不露腳趾的鞋，並攜帶登山杖。而且高高的峽谷壁和水製造了比錫安峽谷其他任何地方都更清涼的環境，因此要穿著並攜帶適合季節的合成材料的衣物。請查看維琴河 Narrows 的安全頁面，以了解更多設備和服裝建議。您也可以選擇從公園外的許多公司租用一套用具，其中包括河流專用鞋、合成塑料襪子、步行杖和乾褲或圍兜，根據您套組的選擇，價格是每天25至50美元。在 Narrows 上游至 Big Spring 徒步不需要許可證，但是如果您想自上而下進行一、兩天的徒步旅行，則需要申請許可證，並且要從公園外的張伯倫牧場(Chamberlain's Ranch)開始一個半小時的車程及徒步行程。這次我們自己帶了手杖、水鞋和一個防水袋來保護手機，也夠用了。Narrows 雖然水勢有些湍急並且冰涼，腳下大小石頭高低不平又滑溜，步步膽戰心驚如履薄冰，深怕一不留意滑落水中，但是，這真是一個難以忘懷的經歷，上了年紀的我，現在不走，又待何時? 怎麽去 Narrows 呢？我們先開車到 Zion 遊客中心坐接駁車，因為錫安峽谷風景走廊 (Zion Canyon Scenic Drive) 只能搭乘接駁車到達。最好是一大早到遊客中心，否則找不到免費的停車位，我們9點到，只好到園外停$40 一天的車位。或者您也可以將車停在斯普林代爾 (Springdale)，然後乘坐免費的錫安峽谷接駁車然後從人行入口進入。錫安峽谷接駁車路線總共有9站，我們就坐到第九站西納瓦瓦神廟 (Temple of Sinawava)，經由0.9英里的河濱步道 (Riverside Walk) 進入 Narrows 的起點。

First, follow me on the shuttle bus to see what Zion National Park looks like. We took the shuttle bus at Zion National Park Visitor Center. Scenic spots and walking trails are available at each stop. From the visitor center, you can find the Pa'rus Trail trailhead. "Pa’rus" is Paiute for “bubbling water.” This 1.7 miles one way trail follows the Virgin River and has some of the best views of the Watchman. This Easy leisurely stroll trail is the only trail in Zion that is open to bicycles and pets, and it is also one of the few wheelchair-accessible trails in the park. It can also be accessed from Zion Museum (shuttle stop#2) and Canyon Junction (shuttle stop #3). The Watchman Trail is also available from the visitor center. This is a 3-miles moderate out-and-back hike with 300-ft elevation gain up to the viewpoint.
先跟著我坐接駁車看看錫安國家公園的樣貌。我們先到錫安國家公園遊客中心坐接駁車，每一站都有景點及步道。從遊客中心到錫安峽谷盡頭的最後一站大約需要40分鐘。從遊客中心可以到 Pa'rus Trail 的起點。Pa’rus是派尤特語「冒泡的水」的意思。這條單程1.7英里長的步道沿著維琴河 (Virgin River)，可以欣賞到守望者 (Watchman) 的景觀。這是一條輕鬆悠閒散步的步道，是錫安唯一一條開放給自行車和寵物的步道，也是公園內為數不多可供輪椅通行的步道之一。它也可以從錫安博物館（第二站）和 Canyon Junction（第三站）進入。從遊客中心也可以走守望者步道 (Watchman Trail)。這是一條來回3英里、中度難度、有著300英尺海拔增益至觀景點的健行路線。

Photo Date: 2023.09.19 Location: Zion National Park Visitor Center

Visitor Center

Bridge Mountain

The Watchman in the background

The West Temple

The second stop: Zion Human History Museum. It highlights artifacts from the Southern Paiute, Puebloan, and Mormon Pioneers who lived in this national park's area throughout the years. Those exhibits showcase the rich human history of the place and illustrate the effects water has had upon both the peoples and the place. (The photo was taken while taking the shuttle bus.)
第二站：錫安人類歷史博物館。多年來居住在這個國家公園地區的南派尤特 (Southern Paiute) 人、普韋布洛人 (Puebloan) 和摩門教先驅者 (Mormon Pioneers) 的文物是這裡的亮點。這些展品展示了這地區豐富的人類歷史，並說明了水對當地人民和這地區的影響。(照片是乘坐接駁車時照的。)

Photo Date: 2023.09.19 Location: Scenery behind the museum

L-R: Beehives Peaks, The Sentinel

The Sentinel on the left

L-R: The West Temple, The Sundial, The Witch Head, Altar of Sacrifice, Meridian Tower

The third stop: Canyon Junction is where the Zion-Mt. Carmel Highway and the Zion Canyon Scenic Drive meet. I don't have photos of this spot.
第三站：峽谷交口是錫安-卡梅爾山公路和錫安峽谷風景走廊的交會處。我沒有這個點的照片。

The forth stop: Court of the Patriarchs is a grouping of sandstone cliffs. The three peaks were named after the biblical figures of Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob by a Methodist Minister, Dr. Frederick Vining Fischer, and two local boys from Southern Utah in 1916. The Court of the Patriarchs is considered the shortest trail (0.2-mile out-and-back) in Zion National Park but the trail is steep (with 29 feet elevation gain). At this location you can enjoy excellent views of The Sentinel and Mount Moroni. (The photo was taken while taking the shuttle bus.)
第四站：三聖石是一組砂岩峭壁。1916 年衛理公會牧師 Frederick Vining Fischer 博士和兩名來自猶他州南部的男孩以聖經人物亞伯拉罕、以撒和雅各的名字命名了這三座山峰。它被認為是錫安國家公園最短的步道（往返 0.2 英里），但步道很陡 (海拔增益 29 英尺)。在這裏可以欣賞哨兵山 (Sentinel) 和莫羅尼山 (Mount Moroni) 的美景。(照片是乘坐接駁車時照的。)

L-R: Abraham, Isaac, Mount Moroni, Jacob

The Sentinel

L-R: The Sentinel, Abraham, Isaac

Mount Moroni

L-R: The Sentinel, Abraham, Isaac, Mount Moroni

L-R: The Sentinel, Abraham, Isaac

L-R: The Sentinel, Abraham

L-R: The Sentinel, Abraham, Isaac

The Sentinel

The fifth to eighth stops will be introduced in the next post.
第五到第八站，會在下一個貼文介紹。

The ninth stop: the Temple of Sinawava which is a natural amphitheater carved by the Virgin River. Riverside Walk and the Narrows can be accessed from here. The 2 miles round-trip Riverside Walk is an easy paved trail which affords great views of the Virgin River and wonderfully lush hanging gardens and trees surrounded by tall weeping walls.
第九站：西納瓦瓦神廟，這是一座天然的圓形劇場，由維琴河雕刻而成。從這裡可以前往河濱步道和 Narrows。往返2英里的河濱步道是一條輕鬆並已鋪設好的步道，可欣賞維琴河的美景以及鬱鬱蔥蔥的空中花園和樹木，周圍環繞著高大的流淚牆。

Photo Date: 2023.09.19 Location: Riverside Walk