Travel/POI: Thailand 2023.05 -4 Trat 泰國達叻府

達叻府(ตราด) 又名桐艾府。在大城王朝時期,達叻府是重要的貿易地點。1893 年法國暹羅危機期間,法國士兵佔領了達叻府。1907年達叻府回歸暹羅,以換取暹羅湄公河沿岸的土地。達叻府距離曼谷 315 公里。它也是這地區水果種植、寶石開採和漁業的主要中心。省印章上的大海及山脈,顯示達叻府有許多高山峻嶺,佈滿豐富的森林及地下寶石,南部沿海有50多個大小島嶼,海產豐富。省樹是欖仁樹(Terminalia catappa)。
Trat province (ตราด), also spelt Trad province. During the Ayutthaya kingdom, Trat became an important location for trade. During the 1893 Paknam crisis, French soldiers occupied the province. Trat was returned to Siam in 1907 in return for Siamese land along the Mekong river. Trat is 315 km from Bangkok. The province also serves as a major center for fruit growing, gem mining and fishing in the region. The sea and mountains on the provincial seal show that Trat Province has many high mountains, bountiful forests and underground gems. There are more than 50 large and small islands along the southern coast and are rich in seafood. The provincial tree is the tropical almond (Terminalia catappa).

我們先去果園看看,這裏主要種山竹,也可看到一些榴槤樹,由於大部份的山竹已採收完畢,我們像找寶似的在樹上找山竹,偶爾找到一個,就覺得蠻興奮的。我看到一顆果樹被爬藤纏繞,想想這些務農的或果農,除了靠天吃飯外,還有這些雜藤、雜草需要操心,讓我覺得他們討生活真不易。
We went to the orchard first. Mangosteens are mainly grown here, and some durian trees can also be seen. Since most of the mangosteens have been harvested, we looked for mangosteens on the trees like treasures. When we occasionally found one, we felt quite excited. I saw a fruit tree entangled with creeping vines. Thinking about these farmers or fruit growers, in addition to relying on the weather for a living, they also have these vines and weeds to worry about. It makes me feel that it is really difficult for them to make a living.

中午吃蛋麵、飯、肉串⋯
Eat egg noodles, rice, and meat skewers... for lunch.

下午去「測試你意願的橋樑」(The Bridge to Test Your Willingness)。這是一個以水為生的生態旅遊社區,代表了沿海漁民的生活方式,有一座約 7.5 公尺高的陡橋連接兩側。多種宗教和民族(如穆斯林、泰國人、華人)並存在這個社區。在這個仇視紛爭不斷的世界,我們真該向這個社區的人學習如何和平共處。
We went to "The Bridge to Test Your Willingness" in the afternoon. This is an ecotourism community living on the water to represent the coastal fishermen’s way of life with a steep bridge about 7.5 meters high connecting both sides. Multiple religions and ethnic groups (such as Muslim, Thai, Chinese) living side by side. In this world with constant hatred and strife, we should really learn from the people in this community how to coexist peacefully.

下一站是達叻府博物館。這座殖民地風格的木製建築於 1921 年拉瑪六世國王統治時期開業,最初設計為市政廳,底部有高脚柱,採用“Panya”風格的屋頂結構。這建築曾因火災嚴重受損,但美術部修復它後並將它改建為博物館,讓遊客能了解此地的文化、地理和生活方式。
The next stop is Trat City Museum. Opened in 1921, during the reign of King Rama VI, and originally designed to act as a town hall. This colonial-style, wooden building sits on stilts with a 'Panya' style roof construction. The building was once heavily damaged by fire but the Fine Arts Department restored it and converted it into the city Museum to allow visitors to learn about the city's culture, geography and lifestyles.

我們接著去布帕壤寺 (Wat Buppharam 或 Wat Plai Khlong), 這寺廟是達叻府最古老、最具藝術和歷史價值的寺廟。寺廟名的意思是“寺廟花香四溢”,因為創始人勘察建寺地點時,發現了一片充滿花香的高地。這寺廟建於大城時期的巴薩通王 (公元 1648 年)。自拉達那哥欣王國時期的國王拉瑪五世以來,便經歷了修復和重建。近年來,成為當地的宗教中心。寺廟內的景點包括:

  • 博物館: 收藏了珍貴的古代文物,像佛陀的聖髑,還有佛像、中國和歐洲的陶瓷器皿、儀式定音鼓等。這些物品顯示出東方港口與遠至西方東南亞地區海外港口之間的文化交流。
  • 壁畫: Phra Ubosot(戒堂)和 Wihan Phra Phutthasaiiyat(臥佛堂)牆上的壁畫是拉達那哥欣時期當地工匠繪製的,融合了中國藝術和文學。
  • Mu Kuti Lek Song Thai: 一座泰式小僧舍或「庫提」("Kuti") 建築群,它是按照佛教戒律建造的,每間僧舍的大小足以容納一名僧人,其中一間僧舍是為授予聖職的建造的。
  • Ho Suat Mon 或祈禱廳: 一間木製大廳,建在八角形木柱上,有琉璃瓦和隆起的屋頂、雕刻和鍍金的三角牆畫著在崇拜的守護神、並有傳統的鑲板牆或 “Fa Prakon”。
  • 佛塔: 一座方形紅土混合的佛塔,有 12 個凹角。

We then go to Wat Buppharam (วัดบุปผาราม) or Wat Plai Khlong (วัดปลายคลอง) which is the oldest and most artistic and historical temple in the Trat province. Its name means "temple is full of fragrant flowers" because when the founder surveyed the place to build the temple, he discovered the upland that was filled with the scent of flowers. It was built around the reign of King Prasat Thong (1648 A.D.) in the Ayutthaya Period. It has undergone restoration and reconstruction since the reign of King Rama V of the Rattanakosin Period. Lately, it has become a local religious center. Spots of interest within the temple include:

  • Museum: a collection of precious objects of antiquity such as the Lord Buddha’s relic, Buddha images, Chinese and European ceramic wares, ceremonial kettledrum, etc. These objects indicate cultural exchanges among the Eastern ports and overseas ports in the Southeast Asian region as far as the West.
  • Murals: the walls of the Phra Ubosot (ordination hall) and Wihan Phra Phutthasaiyat (the Reclining Buddha Hall) were painted by local craftsmen in the Rattanakosin Period, with a blend of Chinese arts and literature.
  • Mu Kuti Lek Song Thai: a complex of small Thai-style monk’s cells or ‘Kuti’ which were built in accordance with the Buddhist discipline requiring each to be large enough to accommodate a single monk, one will be built for the person to be ordained.
  • Ho Suat Mon or praying hall: a wooden hall built on octagonal wooden posts and roofed with glazed tiles and a projecting roof, with a carved and gilded gable depicting an angel in adoration and traditional paneled wall or ‘Fa Prakon’.
  • Chedi: a square laterite and mortar Chedi with 12 redented corners.

晚上又回到海邊吃海產、賞月及看夜景。
In the evening, we returned to the beach to eat seafood, admire the moon and enjoy night scene.

我在查我們今晚住哪裏的時候,突然想起一件事情,在此記錄一下這個小經歷。我先生很怕熱,流汗過多就會起疹子,非常疼痛、不舒服。五月的泰國,對我們來說是非常熱的,這晚他又起疹子,身上沒帶藥,照了疹子的照片請同學幫忙,幸好他的女婿是個醫生,傳來一個藥房可買到的藥膏的名字,我看不懂泰文,也不會說泰文,就帶著電話去碰運氣。幸好我們住在城裏,對面就有一個藥房。雖然我擔心晚上一個人出門不安全,但是還是硬著頭皮出門,感謝神,一出房間門便遇到一個同學要出去閒逛,他主動好心地陪我。在這裏過大街好像又是另一個挑戰,沒有斑馬線也沒有紅綠燈,車速也快,好不容易過了街,與店員比手畫腳,終於買到藥膏,並且安全回到旅館。這讓我想到在我們的生活裏,我們常遇到「貴人」,或許他們只是在很不起眼的事上幫了我們一些小忙,但我們常常就忘了這些人及事情。或者,我們也常經歷神的恩典,卻也不記得了。活在這個奸詐、殘暴新聞轟炸的世界裡,我常會對人性感到失望,並心生悲哀。然而,其實我們周遭處處有善良人做有愛心的事,只是我們常常忘了這些微不足道的事。在此提醒自己,要常常數算恩典。
When I checked where we stayed tonight, I suddenly remembered an incident so I would like to record this little experience here. My husband can't stand the heat. He gets rashes when he sweats too much, which brings excruciating pain to him. Thailand in May is very hot for us. He got rashes again that night and he didn’t bring any medicine. So he took a photo of the rash and asked a friend for help. Fortunately, his son-in-law is a doctor and has texted a name of ointment that can be purchased over the counter at the pharmacy. I couldn’t read or speak Thai, so I took my phone with me to try my luck. Luckily we stayed in the city and there was a pharmacy across the street. Although I was worried that it would be unsafe to go out alone at night, I still went out anyway. Thank God, as soon as I left the room, I saw one of my classmates who wanted to go out taking a stroll. He kindly took the initiative to accompany me. Crossing the street here seemed to be another challenge. There were no crosswalks or traffic lights, and the car speed was very fast. Finally, I crossed the street. I used a variety of gestures to signal the store clerk what ointment that I wanted to buy. Eventually I bought the ointment and returned to the hotel safely. This reminds me that in our lives, we often meet "benefactors". Maybe they just help us with some trivial things, but we often forget these people and things. Or, we often experience God’s grace but don’t remember it. Living in this world constantly bombarded by treacherous and cruel news, I often feel disappointed in human nature and feel sad. However, in fact, there are kind people doing loving things all around us, but we often forget these trivial things. I want to remind myself to always count the blessings.

次日早晨我們去達信大帝公園 (Somdet Phra Chao Taksin Maharat Park)晨走。這個公園位於莊他武里府。它是早晨和晚上鍛鍊身體的理想場所。公園中有一座鄭信王 (鄭昭) 騎在馬上,與他信任的四名士兵的雕塑,這雕塑是為紀念鄭信王選擇莊他武里府聚集人民恢復大城府而建造的。公園的附近也有泰國最大的寶石市場。
The next morning we went for a morning walk at Somdet Phra Chao Taksin Maharat Park. This park is located in Chanthaburi Province. It is a perfect place to go exercising both in the morning and the evening. There is a statue of King Taksin riding on a horse back with four of his trusting soldiers. This statue was built as a remembrance for King Taksin since he chose Chanthaburi Province to gather people to restore Krung Si Ayutthaya. There is also Thailand's largest gems market near the park.

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