Travel/POI: Thailand 2023.05 -1 Ayutthaya 泰國阿瑜陀耶古城/大城府

我去過泰國很多次，都是跟一群大學同學一起。平日我們分散在臺灣、美國以及在泰國各地，疫情前我們比較常聚在一起，現在就少很多。我們聚在一起主要是吃喝玩樂及敘舊，而旅遊似乎反而變成次要目的。

由於我們在泰國有同學及學姊，他們總是把行程安排地妥妥當當的，我就是跟著走，常常搞不清到了哪裡或去了哪些地方，所以寫遊記對我來說不是一件容易的事。

2023 年 5 月去了曼谷及其他地方，老早就想寫寫去過的地方，無奈我方向感不足、相機沒 GPS、以及泰文的中英文翻譯不一致，而且泰文一大串圖畫似的字母，讓我很難在谷歌上搜索信息，因此就一直拖到現在。

我想挑戰自己並再次嘗試，不詳細精準也無所謂，多少給自己留一些記錄。我們這次一行 14 人，主要旅遊在阿瑜陀耶古城/大城府 (Nakhon Prawattisat Phranakhonsi-ayutthaya)、那空那育府 (Nakhon Nayok)、莊他武里府 (Chanthaburi)、達叻府 (Trat) 以及曼谷 (Bangkok)。

I’ve been to Thailand many times, always with a group of college classmates. We’re usually scattered across Taiwan, the United States, and Thailand. Before the pandemic, we got together more often, but now it happens much less frequently. Our reunions are mainly about eating, drinking, having fun, and catching up—traveling often feels like a secondary purpose.

Since my friends in Thailand usually planned the itinerary, I just followed along. As a result, I often didn’t know exactly where we were or where we were going. That’s why writing travel notes hasn’t been easy for me.

I visited Bangkok and several other places in May 2023. I’ve wanted to write about the trip for a long time, but I kept putting it off. I lack a good sense of direction, my camera doesn’t have GPS, and I struggled with inconsistent translations between Chinese, English, and Thai. On top of that, the long strings of picture-like Thai letters made it harder for me to search for information online.

Still, I’d like to challenge myself and give it another try. It doesn’t matter if it’s not detailed or precise—I just want to leave some record for myself. On this trip, there were 14 of us, and our main destinations included Nakhon Prawattisat Phranakhon Si Ayutthaya, Changwat Nakhon Nayok, Changwat Chanthaburi, Changwat Trat, and Bangkok.

泰國，正式名稱為泰王國，1939 年以前也被稱為暹羅，是東南亞印度支那半島上的一個國家。如今曼谷是泰國的首都和最大城市。

西元 6 世紀至 11 世紀，泰語民族從中國西南部遷徙到東南亞大陸。孟王國、高棉帝國和馬來統治者都曾統治今日泰國的部分領土。

泰國第一個王國素可泰 (Sukhothai Kingdom, สุโขทัย) 建於 1238 年，對泰國文化有著重要影響，泰國的文字、藝術、文化與法規，很多都是由素可泰時代開始創立的。 1292 年，蘭甘亨王 (Ramkhamhaeng) 弘揚斯里蘭卡大寺派 (Mahavihara) 佛教，我不知道泰國人篤信佛教是否自此時或是更早而來，據 2000 年調查結果顯示，94.6% 的泰國人是信仰上座部 (Theravada) 佛教的佛教徒，雖然泰國憲法中並未規定國教，而且泰國公民有宗教自由，但是國王一定要是佛教徒。在泰國處處可見佛教廟宇。

第二個王國 - 阿瑜陀耶王國 (Ayutthaya Kingdom, อยุธยา) 創立於 1351 年，15 世紀時併吞了素可泰王國。15 世紀中葉以完整的行政與法律制度、稻米耕作以及對中國的貿易來維持其強盛。但自開國以來，阿瑜陀耶王國便經常與緬甸發生衝突。在 17 至 18 世紀時，阿瑜陀耶王國是東南亞強國，可與中個及印度相提並論，此時並與歐洲國家如葡萄牙、法國、荷蘭、英國通商，法國傳教士們也在此積極傳播基督教，他們在教育和醫療方面對阿瑜陀耶王朝也作出貢獻。

18 世紀下半葉，藝術、文學和學術蓬勃發展。 1765 年，四萬緬甸軍隊從北部和西部入侵，經過 14 個月的圍困，阿瑜陀耶首都城牆倒塌，於 1767 年 4 月被燒毀。

鄭昭 (又名達信大帝、吞武里大帝、鄭王、鄭皇、鄭信、鄭新、鄭生、鄭國英、鄭國華、甘恩敕、丕雅新) 在東南沿海一帶組織了一支軍隊，反抗緬甸的統治。不久清緬戰爭爆發，緬甸在阿瑜陀耶的大部分駐軍被迫回國抵抗清軍，鄭昭趁機收復了阿瑜陀耶，平定了各方割據勢力，由於阿瑜陀耶受戰爭影響，殘破不堪，鄭昭便將都城定在吞武里，並在 1767 年年底建立吞武里王國 (Thonburi Kingdom, ธนบุรี)。

泰國的歷史先簡單介紹到此，因為我們要去造訪的大城歷史遺跡公園，就是阿瑜陀耶王國首都的遺址。

Thailand, officially the Kingdom of Thailand and formerly known as Siam before 1939, is a country in Southeast Asia located on the Indochinese Peninsula. Bangkok is the nation’s capital and largest city.

The Tai peoples migrated from southwestern China to mainland Southeast Asia between the 6th and 11th centuries. Throughout history, the region that is now Thailand was ruled by various powers, including the Mon Kingdom, the Khmer Empire, and Malay rulers.

Sukhothai (สุโขทัย), founded in 1238, was the first kingdom of Thailand and had a significant influence on Thai culture. Much of Thailand’s writing system, art, culture, and legal foundations originated during the Sukhothai era. In 1292, King Ramkhamhaeng promoted the Sri Lankan Mahavihara tradition of Buddhism. I’m not sure whether the Thai people’s strong devotion to Buddhism began during this time or even earlier. According to a 2000 survey, 94.6% of Thais practice Theravada Buddhism. Although the Thai constitution does not declare a state religion and guarantees religious freedom, the king must be a Buddhist. Buddhist temples can be found throughout the country.

The Ayutthaya Kingdom (อยุธยา), the second Thai kingdom, was founded in 1351 and annexed the Sukhothai Kingdom in the 15th century. By the mid-15th century, Ayutthaya had become a powerful and prosperous kingdom, supported by an integrated administrative and legal system, rice farming, and trade with China. However, since its founding, it frequently clashed with Burma (now Myanmar). From the 17th to the 18th century, the Ayutthaya Kingdom was a major power in Southeast Asia, rivaling China and India. During this time, it also established trade relations with European countries such as Portugal, France, the Netherlands, and the United Kingdom. French missionaries were active in spreading Christianity and also contributed to education and healthcare in the kingdom.

In the second quarter of the 18th century, art, literature, and learning flourished. However, in 1765, a combined force of 40,000 Burmese troops invaded from the north and west. After a 14-month siege, Ayutthaya’s city walls were breached, and the capital was burned in April 1767.

Zheng Zhao (also known as 鄭昭, or King Taksin the Great), organized an army along the southeast coast to resist Burmese rule. Around this time, the Sino-Burmese War broke out, forcing most Burmese troops in Ayutthaya to return home to defend against the Qing army. Zheng Zhao seized the opportunity to reclaim Ayutthaya, pacify separatist factions, and establish the Thonburi Kingdom (ธนบุรี) at the end of 1767. As Ayutthaya had been devastated by war, he designated Thonburi as the new capital.

This brief introduction to Thai history ends here, as the Ayutthaya Historical Park—which we planned to visit—comprises the ruins of the capital of the Ayutthaya Kingdom.

我們 2023 年 5 月 1 日一大早從臺灣出發飛到曼谷，從曼谷機場到阿瑜陀耶古城的旅館 (Kantary Hotel Ayutthaya)大約一個小時的車程，中途我們在休息站吃辣味牛肉粉，吃完飯同學及學姊還買了當地的點心讓我們嚐鮮。之後到旅館休息一下，就去大城歷史遺跡公園遊覽。

We flew from Taiwan to Bangkok early in the morning on May 1, 2023. It took about an hour to drive from Bangkok Airport to our hotel, the Kantary Hotel Ayutthaya. On the way, we stopped at a rest area and had spicy beef noodles. After the meal, our friends bought some local snacks for us to try. Later, we rested at the hotel before heading out to visit Ayutthaya Historical Park.

阿瑜陀耶古城/大城府 (อุทยานประวัติศาสตร์พระนครศรีอยุธยา) The Historic City of Ayutthaya

阿瑜陀耶古城/大城府由國王拉瑪鐵菩提一世 (Ramathibodi I) 於 1351 年建立，在 14 世紀至 18 世紀期間蓬勃發展，並逐漸發展成為全球外交和商業中心。1767 年這座城市遭到緬甸軍隊的襲擊並被夷為平地，迫使居民離棄這座城市。這座城市從未重建，至今仍是大規模的考古遺址。

它的特點是高大的佛塔 (prang) 和規模宏大的佛教寺院的遺跡，讓人可以想像這座城市過去的規模和建築的輝煌。大城府依照系統化且嚴格的城市規劃坐標方格進行佈局，包括所有主要建築周圍的道路、運河和護城河。這個策畫方案最佳利用了這座城市位於三河 (昭披耶河/湄南河、華富里河、巴塞河) 之中的位置，並且有技術極其先進且在世界上獨一無二的水利管理系統。

泰國美術部在 1969 年開始對遺址進行整修，當這遺址被宣佈為歷史公園後，在 1976 年更擴大了整修工程規模。大城歷史遺跡公園佔地 289 公頃。它的一部分於 1991 年被聯合國教科文組織宣佈為世界遺產。

The Historic City of Ayutthaya, founded in 1351 by King Ramathibodi I, flourished from the 14th to the 18th centuries and grew to become a center of global diplomacy and commerce. The city was attacked and razed by the Burmese army in 1767, forcing the inhabitants to abandon it. It was never rebuilt in the same location and is now known as an extensive archaeological site.

The site is characterized by the remains of tall prang (reliquary towers) and Buddhist monasteries of monumental proportions, offering a glimpse into the city's former size and the splendor of its architecture. Ayutthaya was laid out according to a systematic and rigid city-planning grid, consisting of roads, canals, and moats surrounding all the principal structures. The layout took full advantage of the city’s strategic position at the confluence of three rivers—the Chao Phraya River, the Lopburi River, and the Pa Sak River—and included a hydraulic water management system that was technologically advanced and unique in the world.

In 1969, the Fine Arts Department of Thailand began restoration of the ruins, scaling up the project after the site was declared a historical park in 1976. Ayutthaya Historical Park covers an area of 289 hectares, and part of it was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1991.

柴瓦塔那蘭寺 (วัดไชยวัฒนาราม) Wat Chaiwatthanaram

柴瓦塔那蘭寺又稱貴妃寺，坐落在昭披耶河西畔，大城府島外。1630 年大城王國的巴薩通王（Prasat Thong）為了紀念他居住在那地區的養母開始建造寺廟。寺廟的名字是長久統治和輝煌時代寺廟的意思。

柴瓦塔那蘭寺的設計非常引人注目，因為無論是佈局還是藝術元素都體現了巴薩通國王對高棉風格的愛好。柴瓦塔那蘭寺是大城府最宏偉、最具紀念意義的遺址之一，它可能經歷 20 年的建造才完成。中央是一座 35 公尺高（115 英尺）的大塔 (prang)，四周有 4 個小塔，中央平台周圍有八個佛塔/舍利塔形狀 (chedi-shaped) 的小聖堂，它們的內牆上有繪畫，外牆上裝飾有 12 個浮雕，描繪了佛陀的生活場景（本生經 Jataka），這些小聖堂由矩形十字形通道（Phra Rabieng）連接。

沿著外牆有 120 尊坐佛。雖然我是基督徒，但看到這一尊尊無頭的坐佛，心中也不油升起淒慘的感覺。根據網上的資料，這些坐佛大部分是在 1767 年阿瑜陀耶古城/大城府落入緬甸手中時，被侵略軍砍下頭部和手臂，但也有一些坐佛的頭是被盜竊者砍下並出售以從中得利。

在這裏我還看到不少男男女女租了傳統泰式服裝拍照留念。在此提醒一下，阿瑜陀耶古城/大城府寺廟主要被視為歷史古蹟，因此不像泰國大多數其他寺廟那樣有嚴格的穿著規定。泰國大多數寺廟都要求男性和女性的膝蓋和肩膀都需要遮蓋起來。你雖然可以穿短褲或洋裝，但只需帶一條長披肩圍在腰間即可。幾乎所有的寺廟門口的街邊市場都有租借或販賣披肩、長裙及長褲。

這裏的門票是 50 泰銖。

Wat Chaiwatthanaram is located on the west bank of the Chao Phraya River, outside Ayutthaya Island. The temple was constructed in 1630 by King Prasat Thong as a memorial to his foster mother's residence in that area. The temple's name literally means "Temple of Long Reign and Glorious Era."

The design of Wat Chaiwatthanaram is distinctive, as both the layout and artistic elements reflect King Prasat Thong's interest in the Khmer style. Wat Chaiwatthanaram was one of the grandest and most monumental ruins in Ayutthaya. The construction of the monastery may have taken up to 20 years to complete. It features a central prang that stands 35 meters (115 feet) high, surrounded by four smaller prangs. The central platform is encircled by eight chedi-shaped chapels. The interior walls of these chapels were once adorned with paintings, while the exterior walls were decorated with 12 reliefs depicting scenes from the life of the Buddha (Jataka). The chapels are connected by a rectangular, cross-shaped passage (Phra Rabieng).

Along the outer wall, there were once 120 seated Buddha statues. Although I am a Christian, when I saw these headless Buddha statues, I couldn’t help but feel a deep sadness. According to online sources, most of the statues were decapitated and dismembered by the invading Burmese army when Ayutthaya fell in 1767. However, some of the heads were later removed by looters and sold for profit.

While I was there, I also saw many men and women renting traditional Thai costumes to take photos as keepsakes. As a reminder, Ayutthaya temples are treated more as historical sites, so they don’t enforce a strict dress code like many other temples in Thailand. Most temples in Thailand require both men and women to cover their knees and shoulders. You can still wear shorts or a dress, but it’s best to carry a long scarf with you to wrap around your waist if needed. Almost all temples have nearby street markets where you can buy or rent a scarf, long skirt, or long trousers.

The entrance fee here is 50 baht.

帕喜善佩寺 (วัดพระศรีสรรเพชญ์) Wat Phra Si Sanphet

五月的泰國，天氣非常炎熱，趁著傍晚稍微涼快些，可以逛逛景點。我們接著去帕喜善佩寺。

帕喜善佩寺（「神聖莊嚴的寺廟」）原本是烏通王（U-thong）也就是拉瑪鐵菩提一世，在 1351 年阿瑜陀耶古城/大城府首都建造的一座皇宮。 1448 年波隆摩·戴萊洛迦納王 (Borommatrailokkanat) 在北部建造了一座新皇宮，便將舊皇宮改建為寺廟。他的兒子拉瑪鐵菩提國王二世在 1492 年增加了兩座佛塔/舍利塔 (chedi)，埋葬著他的父親 (博迪卡泰洛卡那國王) 和他的兄弟 (波隆摩羅闍三世國王) 的骨灰。

1500 年又下令鑄造一尊 16 公尺高的巨大佛像，並敷以黃金，這尊佛像叫做帕喜善佩佛，這也是這座寺名的來源。後來，國王博羅姆拉查四世 (King Boromracha IV) 建造了第三座佛塔，以安置國王拉馬蒂博迪二世的遺體。

帕喜善佩寺是一座皇家寺廟，僅供皇族使用，寺中並無僧人居住。 1767 年緬甸人征服了大城府首府，開始大規模破壞和掠奪許多寺廟和其他建築，包括帕喜善佩寺在內。他們放火燒了建築物並熔化了黃金，兩座佛塔也被摧毀，只有東部的佛塔仍然屹立不倒。在 1956 年泰國美術部將其全部修復。

這裏的門票是 50 泰銖。

The weather in Thailand in May is very hot, so we took advantage of the cooler evening hours to visit scenic spots. We then went to Wat Phra Si Sanphet.

Wat Phra Si Sanphet, or the "Temple of the Holy, Splendid Omniscient," was originally a royal palace built by U-Thong (also known as King Ramathibodi I) in Ayutthaya—the capital of his kingdom—in 1351. In 1448, King Borommatrailokkanat built a new palace to the north and converted the old one into a holy site. His son, King Ramathibodi II, added two stupas (chedis) in 1492, where the ashes of his father (King Borommatrailokkanat) and his brother (King Boromracha III) were interred.

In 1500, he also commissioned a massive Buddha statue, 16 meters high, cast and covered in gold. This statue was called Phra Si Sanphetdayan, which also became the origin of the temple’s name. Later, a third chedi was built by King Boromracha IV to house the remains of King Ramathibodi II.

Wat Phra Si Sanphet was the royal temple and was used exclusively by members of the royal family—no monks ever resided there. In 1767, when the Burmese army conquered Ayutthaya, they began widespread destruction and looting of temples and other buildings, including Wat Phra Si Sanphet. The temple was set on fire, and the gold from the Buddha statue was melted down. Two of the chedis were destroyed in the process, while the eastern chedi remained standing. All were restored by the Fine Arts Department in 1956.

The entrance fee is 50 baht.

帕蒙空博碧寺/蒙坤巫碧寺 (วิหารพระมงคลบพิตร) Wihan Phramongkhon Bophit

帕蒙空博碧寺/蒙坤巫碧寺座落在帕喜善佩寺旁邊。帕蒙空博碧寺的主要特色是大型青銅（鍍金）佛像，名為 Phra Mongkhon Bophit 或「至聖吉祥尊佛」，高 12.5 公尺（不包括基座）。

一些史實: 第一個容納這尊佛像的最早建築在 1600 年代初被閃電擊中，佛像被遷移到另一個地方並新造了新建築。ㄧ百年後，覆蓋結構（藏經樓 mondop）再次被閃電擊中並著火。一座新的講經堂被建造起來，這座重建的青銅佛像又在那裡 150 年。

時間快轉到 1767 年緬甸入侵，佛像再次遭到損害。直到20世紀，修復工作才開始。帕蒙空博碧佛像最後一次修復是在 1955 年。

Wihan Phra Mongkhon Bophit, also known as Phra Mongkhon Bophit, Wat Mongkhon Bophit, or Wat Phra Mongkol Bophit, lies adjacent to Wat Phra Si Sanphet. The main feature at Wat Mongkhon Bophit is a large bronze (gilded) Buddha image named Phra Mongkhon Bophit, or "Buddha of the Holy and Supremely Auspicious Reverence," which stands 12.5 meters high (excluding the pedestal).

Some historical background: The original structure housing this Buddha image was struck by lightning in the early 1600s, prompting its relocation and the construction of a new building. About a hundred years later, the new covering structure (mondop) was also struck by lightning and caught fire. A new preaching hall was then built, where the reconstructed bronze Buddha remained for another 150 years.

During the Burmese invasion of 1767, the Buddha image was damaged again. It wasn’t until the 20th century that restoration efforts began in earnest. The Phra Mongkhon Bophit image was last restored in 1955.

晚上在 Baan Ayudhayarome 倚著河畔賞月吃晚餐，泰式風味的佈置以及宮廷式的裝盤，令人難以忘懷。吃完飯後，盪盪鞦韆、騎晃著木馬，多愜意。

We had dinner at Baan Ayudhayarome in the evening while admiring the moon by the river. The Thai-style decor and palace-style presentation were unforgettable. After dinner, it was so relaxing to play on the swing and ride the rocking horse.

第二天一大早 6：30 就有人去逛市場。
There were people going to the market at 6:30 the next morning.

瑪哈泰寺 (วัดมหาธาตุ พระนครศรีอยุธยา) Wat Mahathat

在離開大城府之前又去了瑪哈泰寺 (大聖塔 Monastery of the Great Relic) 是大城王國最重要的寺院之一，不僅因為它是宗教中心並供奉著佛陀聖骨，還因為它靠近大皇宮。

這是一座皇家寺院，重要的皇家儀式和慶典都在這裡舉行。它也是佛教最高祖師的高座所在地。這座寺廟可能建於 14 世紀末大城府早期。這是一座高棉風格的寺廟。

瑪哈泰寺最具代表性的圖像之一是佛像的頭部與樹根纏繞在一起。

這裏的門票是 50 泰銖。

Before leaving Ayutthaya, we visited Wat Mahathat, also known as Wat Maha That or Wat Phra Mahathat. Wat Mahathat, or the Monastery of the Great Relic, was one of the most important monasteries of the Ayutthaya Kingdom—not only because it served as a religious center and housed relics of the Buddha, but also due to its proximity to the Grand Palace.

It was a royal monastery where important ceremonies and celebrations were held. It was also the seat of the Supreme Patriarch of Thai Buddhism. The temple was likely built in the early days of Ayutthaya, in the late 14th century, and was constructed in the Khmer style.

One of the most iconic sights at Wat Mahathat is the head of a Buddha statue entwined in the roots of a tree.

The entrance fee is 50 baht.