Taiwan Travel Journal 2024.05.23 台灣旅行日記 (大安森林公園, 台灣大學, 寶藏巖國際藝術村)

My daughter and I embarked on a leisurely adventure this time. Both of us often grapple with indecision, overthinking, and the weight of choices. If we had planned today’s entire itinerary before stepping out, we might never have left the house. So, we simply chose the first destination and figured out the rest on the fly. We found that this approach worked beautifully. Our route may not have been the most efficient, and we may not have covered every place in the area, but there was no pressure at all. We moved at our own pace and discovered unexpected delights along the way. We found that imperfect planning can lead to truly memorable experiences.

我跟我女兒這次的旅遊方式是隨性而行。我們兩人都有選擇困難、考慮過多、優柔寡斷的障礙。要我們出門前把今天的行程全部計劃好才出門的話,那我們有可能都無法出門。所以乾脆先選第一個點,然後再看著辦。我們發現這樣玩起來,隨然路線不是最精簡,也可能沒有覆蓋到週邊所有的地方,但是一點壓力也沒,也不趕時間,按照自己的步調前進,常常有新驚喜。我們發現不完美的計劃會也是能夠帶來非常難忘的體驗。

Our first stop of the day was Daan Forest Park. Unexpectedly, we ended up spending some time inside the MRT station. There are rest areas where you can take a break inside the station. Outside, you’ll find pools, gardens, a water dance show plaza (with a show every 15 minutes), and public art spaces. It’s a very special MRT station on the Xinyi–Tamsui Line.

這天我們的第一個點是大安森林公園,誰知道在捷運站就已經逗留了一陣子。捷運站內有寬敞的休憩空間,外面還有水池、庭園、水舞秀廣場 (每15分鐘一次水舞秀) 和公共藝術空間。是信義淡水線非常特別的捷運站。

Daan Forest Park 大安森林公園

Daan Forest Park is an ecological park with dense vegetation, often referred to as the "lungs of the city" in Taipei. It was officially opened to the public in 1994. The park features several distinct areas, including a bamboo forest, banyan trees, fragrant flower gardens, aquatic plants, strip forest, pond, amphitheater, and children's playground.

The park is rich in biodiversity. According to research, four species of protected animals and six species endemic to Taiwan can be found here, including the crested goshawk, peregrine falcon, brown shrike, Taiwan blue magpie, Taiwan barbet, Taiwan scimitar babbler, Bufo bankorensis, Taiwan japalure, and Takydromus stejnegeri.

We saw a large group of people taking photos of a Taiwan barbet feeding its chicks in the park, and I joined them just for fun.

大安森林公園是一座草木濃密的生態公園,常被譽為台北的「都市之肺」。它於 1994 年正式開放。園區內設有多個特色區域,包括竹林區、榕樹區、香花區、水生植物區、帶狀林區、水池假山區、露天音樂台及兒童遊戲區。

園內生態豐富,據研究調查,在此可看到 4 種保育類動物及 6 種臺灣特有種,包括了鳳頭蒼鷹、游隼、紅尾伯勞、臺灣藍鵲五色鳥、小彎嘴、盤古蟾蜍、斯文豪氏攀蜥及蓬萊草蜥。

我們在公園中看到一大群人在照五色鳥餵雛鳥的景觀,我也來湊一腳。

National Taiwan University 國立台灣大學

We wandered around Daan Forest Park until almost noon and then decided to walk to National Taiwan University. On one hand, it's easier to find food near the university; on the other hand, several of my daughter’s aunts and uncles attended this school. I want her to visit Taiwan's first institution of higher education, founded in 1928, which is also the top-ranked university in the country.

我們在大安森林公園逛到快中午,然後決定走到國立台灣大學。一方面,大學附近比較容易找到吃飯的地方;另一方面,這是我女兒幾個姑媽、姑爹及伯母的學校。我想讓她去見識一下台灣第一所高等教育機構,它成立於 1928 年,也是台灣排名第一的大學。

On the flag, you can see the school motto: 'Integrity, Diligence, Fidelity, Compassion.' 旗上可看到「敦品勵學,愛國愛人」的校訓
Royal Palm Blvd. 椰林大道
Fu Bell 傅鐘

Treasure Hill Artist Village 寶藏巖國際藝術村

We then walked toward Gongguan. We searched online and found that an art village was nearby, so we decided to visit Treasure Hill Artist Village. Treasure Hill is located at the end of Alley 230, Section 3, Tingzhou Road, Zhongzheng District, Taipei City. It is named after the nearby temple, Treasure Hill.

During the late 17th century, in the Qing Dynasty, immigrants from southern Fujian settled here. During the Japanese occupation, underground bunkers and garrison buildings were constructed. After Japan’s defeat, the Nationalist Government established its headquarters in this area.

In the 1950s, aside from the venerable Guanyin Temple and government offices, there were only three to five illicit private structures in Treasure Hill. In the 1960s, veterans, civilians, and their families gradually began to populate the area. By the 1980s, nearly four hectares hosted around 200 families.

In the 1980s, the Taipei City Government, under the name of urban renewal and water management, planned to demolish Treasure Hill. Protests erupted among local residents. In 1997, the Institute of Architecture and Urban-Rural Development at National Taiwan University successfully lobbied for Treasure Hill’s classification as a “historic settlement,” sparing it from demolition. In 2004, it officially gained the status of a “historic building.”

Around that time, artists from all over the country began moving into abandoned houses and open spaces to carry out various artistic activities. In early 2006, The New York Times listed Treasure Hill as one of the most enchanting landscapes in Taipei.

Most of the exhibitions were closed on the day we visited, so we walked around outside. Seeing the living environment there reminded me of the houses and scenery from my childhood, fifty or sixty years ago.

我們接著往公館的方向走。我們在網路上搜尋到附近有個藝術村,於是決定去寶藏巖國際藝術村看看。寶藏巖聚落位於台北市中正區汀州路三段 230 巷底,因附近的廟宇「寶藏巖」(又稱為觀音巖仔)而得名。

17世紀末,清朝時期,來自閩南的移民在此定居。日治時期,這裏設有地下碉堡與駐軍兵舍。日本戰敗後,國民政府在此設立了司令部。

1950 年代,除了觀音廟和司令部外,寶藏岩僅有三、五戶民間違建。 1960 年代,駐軍或榮民老兵或其家屬逐漸遷入。到了 1980 年代,寶藏岩聚落規模已達近四公頃,居住著約兩百多戶人家。

1980 年代,台北市政府以整頓市容與水利維持為名,計畫拆除寶藏岩社區,引發當地居民陳情與抗議。 1997 年,台灣大學建築與城鄉研究所遊說行政部門,將寶藏岩評定為「歷史聚落」,使其免於拆除。 2004 年,寶藏岩正式認定為「歷史建築」。

當時,全國各地的藝術家開始進駐廢棄的房屋和空地,進行各種藝術活動。 2006 年初,《紐約時報》將寶藏岩列為台北最迷人的景觀之一。

我們參觀的那天,大部分展覽都未開門,我們就在外面轉了轉。看到那裡的生活環境,我不禁想起了五、六十年前我小時候的房舍的景置。

We ended the day with 15,732 steps and 6.6 miles (10.6 kilometers). Finally, I want to record an interesting and heartwarming experience.

While we were looking for the way to Treasure Hill, I stopped by the roadside to admire the vegetables and eggplants growing in a yard. I said to my daughter, “Look at these eggplants — they're growing really well.” Unexpectedly, an old man came over and told us the eggplants were fake — he had tied them up because he thought they looked nice. I thought it was funny, so I chatted with him for a while. He realized we were traveling and told us about some nearby attractions. Since the weather was hot, he even gave us two bottles of water to quench our thirst.

It was a simple but touching moment that let us experience the warmth and hospitality of the Taiwanese people.

我們結束了今天的行程,走了 15,732 步,6.6 英里 (10.6 公里)。我最後想記錄一個有趣又溫馨的事。

當我們在找去寶藏巖的路時,我在路邊停下來欣賞院子裡種的蔬菜和茄子。我對女兒說:“你看這些茄子,長得真好。” 不料旁邊一位老先生說,這些茄子是假的──他覺得好看,就把它們綁上去。我覺得很好笑,就跟他聊了一會兒。他知道我們出來旅遊,就給我們介紹了附近的一些景點。天氣很熱,他還給了我們兩瓶水解渴。

這是一個簡單卻感人的時刻,讓我們感受到台灣人的熱情及溫馨。

When we got home in the evening, Lulu cooked her homemade braised beef noodles for us. What a great way to end the day—with a delicious meal.

晚上回家,露露幫我們煮了她自製的滷牛肉麵,以一頓美味的飯菜結束這一天,真是太棒了。

Travel/Point of Interest Posts 旅遊景點帖子