Travel/POI: Yosemite National Park (優勝美地/約塞米蒂國家公園), California - Tunnel View, Bridalveil Fall, El Capitan, Middle Cathedral Rock, Sentinel/Cook's Meadow Loop, Yosemite Falls, Half Dome
Yosemite National Park is located in California and was designated a World Heritage Site in 1984. Known as the "Cathedral of Nature," Yosemite is recognized for its cliffs, waterfalls, clear streams, giant sequoia groves, lakes, mountains, meadows, glaciers, and biological diversity. Almost 95 percent of the park is designated wilderness.
The Ahwahneechee people, the Indigenous natives of Yosemite, were the only tribe that lived within the park boundaries, while other tribes lived in surrounding areas before early American settlements. The California Gold Rush (1848–1855) drew more than 90,000 European Americans to the area in less than two years. The Mariposa War began in December 1850 when California funded a state militia to drive Native people from contested territory and suppress Native American resistance to the European American influx.
This is a story of conflict, dreams, diversity, hardships, adventures, and preservation—told from both sides. Beyond the rocks, plants, and animals, human history is also woven into the fabric of Yosemite National Park.
In 1864, to ward off further commercial exploitation, conservationists convinced President Abraham Lincoln to declare Yosemite Valley and the Mariposa Grove of giant sequoias a public trust of California. This marked the first time the U.S. government protected land for public enjoyment and laid the foundation for the establishment of the national and state park systems. Yellowstone became America’s first national park in 1872.
At Yosemite Valley, overgrazing of meadows (especially by sheep), logging of giant sequoias, and other environmental damage led John Muir, a naturalist and explorer, to advocate for further federal protection. Muir and Robert Underwood Johnson, editor of Century Magazine, lobbied Congress for the act that created Yosemite National Park on October 1, 1890. However, the State of California retained control of Yosemite Valley and the Mariposa Grove. In May 1903, Muir convinced President Theodore Roosevelt to take control of the area away from California and return it to the federal government. In 1906, Roosevelt signed the enabling bill.
I visited Yosemite National Park on May 22–23, 2017; October 9, 2023; and September 12–13, 2024. I'd like to show you the attractions I visited.
優勝美地國家公園位於加州，於 1984 年被列為世界遺產。優勝美地被譽為「自然的大教堂」，以其懸崖峭壁、瀑布、清澈的溪流、巨大的紅杉林、湖泊、山脈、草地、冰川和生物多樣性而聞名。公園內近 95% 的區域被劃為荒野。
優勝美地的原住民阿瓦尼奇人（Ahwahneechee）是唯一居住在公園地區內的部落，其他部落在早期美國人定居之前都居住在周邊地區。加州淘金熱（1848-1855）在不到兩年的時間內吸引了超過 9 萬名歐裔美國人來到這裏。馬里波薩戰爭（Mariposa War）始於 1850 年 12 月，當時加州出資組建了一支州民兵防衛隊，將原住民驅逐出有爭議的領土，並鎮壓了原住民對歐裔美國人湧入的抵抗。
這是一個從雙方視角講述，關於衝突、夢想、多元化、艱辛、冒險和保護的故事。除了岩石、植物和動物，人類的歷史也編織進入了優勝美地國家公園的存在中。
1864 年，為了阻止進一步的商業開發，環保人士說服林肯總統宣布優勝美地山谷和馬里波薩巨型紅杉林為加州的公共信託。這印下了美國政府首次將土地保護起來供公眾享用的標誌，並為國家和州立公園系統的建立奠定了基礎。黃石公園於 1872 年成為美國第一個國家公園。
在優勝美地山谷，草地過度放牧（尤其是綿羊）、巨型紅杉砍伐以及其他環境破壞，促使博物學家兼探險家約翰·繆爾（John Muir）倡導聯邦政府進一步保護優勝美地山谷。繆爾和《世紀雜誌》編輯羅伯特·約翰遜 (Robert Underwood Johnson) 遊說國會，促成了 1890 年 10 月 1 日創建優勝美地國家公園的法案。然而，加州仍然保留了對優勝美地山谷和瑪利波薩森林的控制權。 1903 年 5 月，繆爾說服羅斯福總統從加州奪回這地區的控制權，歸還給聯邦政府。 1906 年，羅斯福簽署了授權法案。
我於 2017 年 5 月 22 日至 23 日、2023 年 10 月 9 日和 2024 年 9 月 12 日至 13 日都來過優勝美地國家公園。讓我穿叉式地來介紹我去過的景點。
Tunnel View 隧道景觀
In October 2023, we first passed through the 4,233-foot-long Wawona Tunnel to reach our first attraction — Tunnel View. The Tunnel View scenic overlook is a historic site offering expansive views of Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, Bridalveil Fall, and Half Dome. Wawona Tunnel is the longest highway tunnel in California. Taking nearly two years to build, it was completed in April 1933, with additional improvements made in 2008. The site remains one of the most popular scenic overlooks in Yosemite National Park, with an estimated 5,000 to 7,000 people visiting per day during the peak tourist season. From photos taken over the past three years, we can see that in the spring of 2017, Bridalveil Fall had the most water, while in late summer and early autumn, the water flow was much lower.
2023 年 10 月，我們首先穿過 4,233 英尺長的瓦沃納隧道 (Wawona Tunnel)，到達了我們的第一個景點—隧道景觀。隧道景觀觀景台是一個歷史悠久的景點，可以一覽優勝美地山谷、酋長岩 (El Capitan)、新娘面紗瀑布 (Bridalveil Fall) 和半穹頂 (Half Dome) 的壯麗景色。瓦沃納隧道是加州最長的公路隧道，耗時近兩年建成，於 1933 年 4 月竣工，並於 2008 年做進一步的改進。這裡至今仍是優勝美地國家公園最受歡迎的觀景台之一，在旅遊旺季期間，每天估計有5 千至 7 千人參觀。從過去三年拍攝的照片中可看出，2017 年春季，新娘面紗瀑布的水量最多，而夏末秋初的水量則少得多。
Bridalveil Fall is full of water
Yosemite National Park has been among the top ten most visited national parks in the United States for several years. Because of its popularity, you can imagine how crowded it gets during the high season. To avoid the hassle of finding a parking spot, you can take the free Yosemite Valley shuttle to get around Yosemite Valley.
優勝美地國家公園多年來一直是美國十大最受歡迎的國家公園之一。由於它如此受歡迎，您可以想像旺季時這裡會多麼擁擠。為了避免尋找停車位的麻煩，您可以乘坐免費的優勝美地山谷接泊車遊覽優勝美地山谷周圍的景點。
Bridalveil Fall 新娘面紗瀑布
Plunging 620 feet (189 meters), Bridalveil Fall is often the first waterfall you'll see when entering Yosemite Valley. A paved trail (0.5-mile round trip, 80-foot elevation gain) leads from the parking area to the base of the waterfall, which flows year-round. When the water is at its peak in spring and early summer, you can expect to get wet!
When we visited in May 2017, the waterfall was incredibly powerful and unforgettable. In October 2023 and September 2024, the water flow was more moderate. So, if you visit the park in a different season, your experience will likely be different.
新娘面紗瀑布落差 620 英尺（189公尺），通常是進入優勝美地山谷後看到的第一道瀑布。有一條從停車場通往瀑布底部鋪好的步道（往返 0.5 英里，海拔增益 80 英尺），瀑布全年水流不息。春季和初夏水位最高時，你可能會被淋濕！
我們 2017 年 5 月去的時候，瀑布水勢磅礴，至今令人難忘。 2023 年 10 月及 2024 年 9 月，水流就平緩多了。所以，選擇哪個季節去公園，體驗可能會有所不同。
Bridalveil Fall is full of water and powerful.
When the wind blows, the flow of the waterfall will change directions.
El Capitan 酋長岩
El Capitan, a granite monolith, rises about 3,000 feet (914 meters) from base to summit. It is 2.5 times as tall as the Empire State Building and more than three times the height of the Eiffel Tower. El Capitan is a world-famous destination for big wall climbing, including aid climbing, free climbing, and free solo climbing. In addition to climbing, some people choose to hike to the top. The El Capitan hiking trail covers just under 20 miles, with an elevation gain of about 5,200 feet. The hike takes between 8 and 12 hours to complete (including the Eagle Peak side trail).
As for us, we chose the easiest way—driving into Yosemite Valley and parking by the road near Bridalveil Fall to admire this majestic rock formation.
酋長岩是一塊花崗岩巨石，從底部到頂部高約 3,000 英尺（914 公尺）。它的高度是帝國大廈的 2.5 倍，是艾菲爾鐵塔高度的三倍多。酋長岩是世界聞名的大型岩壁攀岩勝地，包括輔助攀岩、徒手攀岩和無保護徒手攀岩。除了攀登，有些人還會選擇健行登頂。酋長岩健行路線全長近 20 英里，海拔增益約 5,200 英尺。健行全程需要 8 至 12 小時（包括鷹峰（Eagle Peak）的支線路線）。
至於我們，我們選擇了最簡單的方式就是開車進入優勝美地山谷，把車停在新娘面紗瀑布附近的路邊，欣賞這座雄偉的大岩石。
In mid- to late February, El Capitan becomes the stage for the now-famous light show at Horsetail Fall, sometimes simply called “the Firefall” or “the Horsetail Firefall.” Although I have never witnessed this spectacular sight, I wanted to make a note of it—perhaps I’ll have the opportunity to see it in the future.
Horsetail Fall can glow orange when it is backlit by the setting sun, making it appear as though it is on fire. This unique lighting effect occurs only on clear evenings in mid- to late February, when the waterfall is flowing and the sun is at just the right angle. The phenomenon attracts many visitors to the park. To manage the crowds during this event, reservations are required for entry to Yosemite on certain dates in February. Be sure to check the official website for details.
每逢二月中下旬，酋長岩便會成為馬尾瀑布（Horsetail Fall）火焰秀的舞台，這場秀如今已聲名遠揚。有時，它被簡稱為「火瀑布」（Firefall）或「馬尾瀑布」（Horsetail Firefall）。雖然我從未親眼目睹過這番壯麗景象，但我還是想要在此做個筆記——或許以後有機會去看看。
馬尾瀑佈在夕陽的映照下，會泛出橙色的光芒，彷彿燃燒起來。這種獨特的光影效果只有在二月中下旬、晴朗的夜晚、瀑布水流湍急、陽光照射的角度恰到好處時才會出現。這種奇觀吸引了眾多遊客造訪公園。為了控制活動期間的客流量，二月特定日期進入優勝美地需要預訂。詳情請參閱官方網站。
Middle Cathedral Rock 中教堂岩
Middle Cathedral Rock lies directly across Yosemite Valley from El Capitan, just over half a mile away. It also attracts many free climbers. Its summit rises about 2,500 feet above the valley floor.
中教堂岩位於優勝美地山谷對面，與酋長岩僅相距半英里多一點。它也吸引了許多徒手攀岩愛好者。其山頂距谷底約 2500 英尺。
Sentinel/Cook's Meadow Loop 哨兵/庫克草原環路
Our next attraction was Yosemite Falls, but we couldn't find a closer parking lot, so we parked by the road on Northside Drive and accessed the falls via the Sentinel/Cook's Meadow Loop. This is a “bang-for-your-buck” kind of hiking trail. Along different segments of the loop, you'll see meadows, Yosemite Falls, Swinging Bridge, Half Dome, Sentinel Rock, the historic Yosemite Chapel, Glacier Point, Royal Arches, various wildlife, and beautiful flowers or fall colors, depending on the season.
我們的下一個景點想去優勝美地瀑布，但找不到更近的停車場，所以我們把車停在北侧路 (Northside Drive) 旁，然後經由哨兵/庫克草原環路去看瀑布。這是一條「物超所值」的健行步道。沿著環路的不同路段，你會看到草原、優勝美地瀑布、平旋橋、半穹頂、哨兵岩、歷史悠久的優勝美地教堂、冰川頂、皇家拱門、各種野生動物，以及根據季節變化而看到美麗的花朵或秋色。
from Northside Drive
from Southside Drive
Yosemite Falls 優勝美地瀑布
Yosemite Falls (2,425 feet), one of the tallest waterfalls in the world, is actually made up of three separate sections: Upper Yosemite Fall (1,430 feet), the middle cascades (675 feet), and Lower Yosemite Fall (320 feet). A one-mile loop trail leads to the base of Lower Yosemite Fall. It's also possible to hike to the top of Yosemite Falls, though it's a strenuous, all-day trek. Yosemite Creek, which feeds the waterfall, is fed entirely by snowmelt. As a result, Yosemite Falls usually runs dry by late summer.
On May 23, 2017, the waterfall surged violently—like a galloping array of thousands of horses. But by October 9, 2023, it looked completely different. Amazingly, by September 2024, there was no water at Lower Yosemite Fall. What remains on the stone wall are traces of erosion left by water over the years.
優勝美地瀑布（2,425 英尺）是世界上最高的瀑布之一，實際上是由三個獨立的瀑布組成：上優勝美地瀑布（1,430 英尺）、中瀑布（675 英尺）和下優勝美地瀑布（320 英尺）。一條一英里長的環形步道可通往下優勝美地瀑布的底部。健行前往優勝美地瀑布的頂部也是有可能的，但這需要花一整天的艱苦跋涉才能到達。流入瀑布的優勝美地溪完全由融雪供水。因此，優勝美地瀑布通常在夏末會乾涸。
2017 年 5 月 23 日，瀑布水勢洶湧，宛如萬馬奔騰。但到了2023 年 10 月 9 日，則是全然不同的風貌。更令人驚訝的是，到了2024 年 9 月，下優勝美地瀑布竟然沒有水了。石壁上殘留的，是多年流水沖蝕留下的痕跡。
Half Dome 半穹頂
Half Dome is a quartz monzonite batholith, standing at nearly 8,800 feet above sea level and rising almost 5,000 feet above the floor of Yosemite Valley, located at the valley’s eastern end. This iconic formation is named for its distinct shape: one side is a sheer vertical face, while the other three sides are smooth and rounded, making it appear like a dome cut in half.
We were fortunate to stay inside Yosemite National Park in 2024, which meant we didn’t need to rush to drive out of the park each day. In the evening, we could take a walk to Yosemite Falls and enjoy the stunning sight of the sunset shining on Half Dome—truly a memorable scene.
By the way, if you're up for a challenge, you can take on the 14- to 16-mile round-trip hike to Half Dome, which typically takes 10 to 12 hours. The most famous—or infamous—part of the hike is the final ascent using the cables. Two metal cables allow hikers to climb the last 400 feet to the summit without rock climbing equipment. Permits are required to hike the cables whenever they are "up," usually between the Friday before Memorial Day and the second Monday in October, though this depends on conditions.
半穹頂是一塊石英二長岩基岩，海拔近 8,800 英尺（約 2770 公尺），比優勝美地山谷高出近 5,000 英尺尺（約 1520 公尺），位於山谷的東端。這個非常出名的地形因其獨特的形狀而得名：半穹頂的一面陡峭近乎垂直，而其餘三面則光滑圓潤，看起來像是一個被切成兩半的圓頂。
2024 年，我們很幸運能住在優勝美地國家公園裏面，不用每天匆匆忙忙地開車出園。傍晚，我們可以散步到優勝美地瀑布，欣賞落日餘暉灑滿半穹頂的壯麗景色——真是令人難忘。
順便提一下，如果您喜歡挑戰，可以嘗試往返徒步前往半穹頂，全程 14 至 16 英里，通常需要 10 至 12 個小時。徒步中最著名（或最臭名昭彰）的路段是最後一段使用鋼索的攀登。兩條金屬鋼索讓健行者無需攀岩設備即可攀爬最後 400 英尺到達頂峰。但當鋼索「架設」時，需要拿到許可證才能攀登鋼索，鋼索開放的時日通常從陣亡將士紀念日前的星期五到十月的第二個星期一，但具體時間取決於天氣狀況。
Yosemite Valley Lodge 優勝美地山谷旅館
We were lucky enough to book a room at Yosemite Valley Lodge in 2024. Its close proximity to Yosemite Falls makes it the perfect base camp for exploring Yosemite National Park. The room was very comfortable, and the Yosemite Lodge Food Court was just a short walk away. From the dining area, you can enjoy stunning natural views through tall glass windows—what a treat!
我們很幸運地在 2024 年訂到了優勝美地山谷旅館的房間。它靠近優勝美地瀑布，是探索優勝美地國家公園的理想大本營。房間非常舒適，距離美食廣場也只有幾步之遙。從餐廳，您可以透過高大的玻璃窗欣賞壯麗的自然風光——真是太棒了！
References 參考資料
- Wikipedia: Yosemite National Park
- History: Yosemite National Park established
- National Park Service: Yosemite
- National Park Service: Yosemite Falls
- National Park Service: Half Dome Day Hike
- National Park Service: Chinese Brochure
- Yosemite Mariposa County: El Capitan
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