八坂庚申堂 Yasaka Kōshin-dō
我們的下一站是法觀寺（Hokan-ji Temple）。我們從八坂神社的南樓門出來，沿著下河原通（Shimokawaracho-dori）走，途中先經過了八坂庚申堂（Yasaka Koshin-do）。看見裡面似乎有相當多的人，我們便沒有進去參觀；不過從外面望去，可以看到庭院裡掛滿了五顏六色的圓形飾物，顯得熱鬧、格外引人注目。原來，這裡是東山地區極受歡迎的小寺院。
其正式名稱為「大黑山金剛寺庚申堂」，隸屬於天台宗。它與大阪四天王寺的庚申堂、東京原入谷庚申堂並稱為「日本三大庚申堂」。
這裡以其密密麻麻懸掛的彩色布猴護身符（被稱為「許願猴」kukuri-zaru）而聞名。猴子的四肢被束縛，無法移動──這是抑制慾望的象徵，其意義乃是正如猴子被束縛而無法衝動行事一樣，信徒自己的衝動也能受到靈性上的約制。遊客可將自己的願望寫在這些符咒上，並將其掛起來，相信只要心甘情願地放下貪婪的慾望，他們的願望就能實現。
在整個庭院內，隨處可見「三猿」（sanzaru）雕像，它們分別掩住眼睛、嘴巴和耳朵，體現了「非禮勿視、非禮勿聽、非禮勿言」的原則；這是因為猴子被視為庚申（Koshin）神的神聖使者。
這座寺建於西元 960 年，被視為日本「庚申信仰」的發源地。寺內供奉的主尊「青面金剛」作為驅邪祛病、守護健康的保護神而備受崇敬。
Our next destination was Hokan-ji Temple. Leaving Yasaka Shrine through its South Romon Gate and heading along Shimokawaracho-dori, we first passed by Yasaka Koshin-do. It seemed to be quite busy inside, so we didn't go in — but from the outside, we could see the courtyard filled with a riot of colorful round objects hanging everywhere, lively and eye-catching. This turns out to be one of Higashiyama's most popular small temples.
Its formal name is Daikoku-zan Kongo-ji Koshin-do, and it belongs to the Tendai sect. Along with the Koshin-do at Shitennoji in Osaka and the former Iriya Koshin-do in Tokyo, it is counted as one of Japan's three great koshin halls (Nihon San-Koshin).
The temple is famous for its densely hanging colorful cloth monkey charms known as kukuri-zaru (bound monkeys). The monkeys' limbs are bound so they cannot move — a symbol of restraining one's desires, the idea being that just as the monkey is bound and unable to act on impulse, the believer's own urges are spiritually restrained. Visitors write their wishes on these charms and hang them up, with the belief that by willingly letting go of a greedy desire, their wish may be granted.
Throughout the grounds, three-monkey (sanzaru) statues can be found covering their eyes, mouth, and ears — embodying the principle of "see no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil," as the monkey is regarded as the sacred messenger of the koshin deity.
The temple was founded in 960 CE and is considered the birthplace of koshin faith in Japan. Its principal deity, the Blue-Faced Vajra (Shōmen Kongō), is venerated as a protector against evil and illness, and a guardian of good health.
法觀寺/八坂塔 Hōkan-ji Temple
法觀寺（俗稱「八坂塔」）有一座巍峨壯觀的五重塔，高 46 公尺。這一高度使其成為日本第三高的五重塔，僅次於東寺和興福寺。
根據寺院的傳統說法，聖德太子在夢中得到如意輪觀音的神啟後建造了這座寶塔，並將佛舍利供奉於塔的基石之中，使其成為日本最早的舍利崇拜地之一。儘管關於該寺始建於飛鳥時代（西元 589 年）的傳說，在史實性上尚存爭議，但這仍是其廣為流傳的起源故事。
塔內供奉五智如來（Gochi Nyorai）：大日如來、釋迦牟尼佛（Shaka）、阿閦如來、寶生如來和阿彌陀佛。貫穿塔身的中心柱（心柱/shimbashira）為抗震構造，始建時期的原始基石至今仍保留在原位。
幾個世紀以來，這座寺廟屢遭戰火與火災的破壞。現存的寶塔是在 1436 年發生一場大火後，由室町幕府第六代將軍足利義教於 1440 年重建的。該塔已被指定為國家重要文化財產。
此寺隸屬於臨濟宗建仁寺派。 1240年，建仁寺第八代住持西翁正空（Saio Shōku）入主該寺並進行整頓，使其轉變為一座臨濟宗禪寺；「法觀寺」這一寺名也始於此時。臨濟宗由中國唐代的禪師臨濟義玄創立，以其峻烈辛辣與靈活機用的禪風著稱——其特點包括棒喝交加、教化手法靈活多變，隨機應變以及佛性本具、確立自信，旨在打破常規思維，直觀本性。該宗派於南宋時期傳入日本（尤以僧人榮西的傳播最為著名），並對武士文化及茶道美學產生了深遠影響；時至今日，它依然是日本禪宗兩大主要流派之一。
Hokan-ji Temple, popularly known as "Yasaka-no-to" (八坂塔), is home to a magnificent five-story pagoda standing 46 meters tall. At this height, it ranks as the third tallest five-story pagoda in Japan, surpassed only by those at Toji and Kofukuji.
According to temple tradition, Prince Shotoku built the pagoda after receiving divine guidance through a dream vision of the Nyoirin Kannon, enshrining Buddhist relics (busshari) within its foundation stone — making this one of the earliest sites of relic veneration in Japan. The temple is said to have been founded in 589 CE, during the Asuka period, though the founding legend's historical accuracy is debated by scholars.
The pagoda's interior enshrines the Five Wisdom Buddhas (Gochi Nyorai): Dainichi, Shakyamuni (Shaka), Ashuku, Hoshō, and Amida. The central pillar (shimbashira) running through the pagoda serves as a seismic-resistant structural element, and the original foundation stone from the time of construction remains in place to this day.
The temple suffered repeated destruction from war and fire over the centuries. The current pagoda was rebuilt in 1440 by Ashikaga Yoshinori, the sixth shogun of the Muromachi shogunate, following a major fire in 1436. It has been designated a National Important Cultural Property.
The temple belongs to the Rinzai sect, Kenninji branch. It became a Rinzai Zen temple in 1240, when Saio Shōku, the eighth abbot of Kenninji, entered the temple and reformed it — and the name "Hokan-ji" dates from this period. The Rinzai school, founded by Chan master Linji Yixuan during the Tang dynasty in China, is known for its vigorous, dynamic style of Zen — characterized by sharp exchanges, sudden shouts, and striking, aimed at breaking through conventional thinking to achieve direct insight into one's true nature. It was transmitted to Japan during the Southern Song dynasty, most notably by the monk Eisai, and went on to exert a profound influence on samurai culture and the aesthetics of the tea ceremony. It remains one of the two major schools of Zen Buddhism in Japan today.
法觀寺非常熱門，通往寺廟的狹窄巷弄裡擠滿了遊客。許多遊客會租借日本傳統服飾在此拍照留念。我們也看到了京都標誌性的人力車；車夫不僅負責載客，還扮演專屬導遊的角色，沿途講述各種故事與歷史典故。有多條遊覽路線都會經過八坂塔（Yasaka Pagoda）——例如從一年坂（Ichinenzaka）出發，途經法觀寺、八坂神社（Yasaka Shrine）和圓山公園（Maruyama Park）——讓遊客能濃縮體驗作為古都的京都，它的獨特氛圍。這想必是個美好的旅遊體驗。
Hokan-ji is very popular — the narrow lanes leading to it were packed with visitors. Many tourists rent traditional Japanese clothing to take photos here. We also saw Kyoto's famous rickshaws (jinrikisha), whose pullers serve not only as transportation but as dedicated tour guides, sharing stories and history along the way. Several routes pass by the Yasaka Pagoda — for example, starting from Ichinenzaka, continuing past Hokan-ji, Yasaka Shrine, and Maruyama Park — offering a condensed journey through Kyoto's old-capital atmosphere. It must be a wonderful experience.
⛩ Stay tuned for more of our Kyoto, Japan adventures!
World Through My Eyes (Photographs) Posts/我鏡頭裏的世(視)界帖子
Travel/Point of Interest Posts 旅遊景點帖子