Yufuin no Mori sightseeing train 由布院之森觀光列車
我們今天的目的地是由布院，這是一個位於大分縣中西部地區的迷人溫泉小鎮。從福岡出發大約需要兩個小時的車程，最著名的交通方式是從博多搭乘「由布院之森」特快列車直達。
不過，在深入探索小鎮風光之前，我必須先介紹這段行程本身：名聲赫赫的「由布院之森」觀光列車。它不僅僅是交通工具，更是一次奢華的慢旅行體驗，為輕鬆愜意的度假之旅設下完美的氛圍。踏上這列火車，彷彿置身於一座移動的山間別墅。列車標誌性的森林綠外觀和暖色的木質內飾，與九州鬱鬱蔥蔥的自然景觀完美融合。列車蜿蜒穿梭於山巒之間，高窗將層疊的瀑布和雲霧繚繞的山谷盡收眼底，讓每一公里都成為難忘之旅。
搭乘由布院之森號列車，是一趟值得細細品味的旅程。旅途中，我們來到餐車，體驗了一個經典的日本鐵路傳統：貼紀念郵票。我們在明信片上蓋上郵票，記錄下日期，還和標示日期的牌子合照。午餐，我們享用了精美的便當 (Ediben 駅弁)，裡面盛滿了當季的當地食材。餐後甜點是濃鬱絲滑的抹茶冰淇淋。一邊欣賞窗外鬱鬱蔥蔥的鄉村景色，一邊品嚐著當地美食，兩個小時的旅程感覺轉瞬即逝。
Our destination today is Yufuin, a charming hot spring town nestled in the mid-western part of Oita Prefecture. Located about a two-hour journey from Fukuoka, it is most famously reached by taking the 'Yufuin no Mori' limited express train directly from Hakata.
However, before we dive into the sights of the town, I have to introduce the journey itself: the legendary Yufuin no Mori sightseeing train. It is more than just transport; it’s a luxurious, slow-travel experience that sets the perfect tone for a relaxing getaway. Stepping onto this train feels like entering a moving mountain villa. With its signature forest-green exterior and warm, wooden interior, the train is designed to harmonize perfectly with the lush Kyushu landscape. As you wind through the mountains, the high-deck windows offer panoramic views of cascading waterfalls and misty valleys, making every mile part of the adventure.
The journey on the Yufuin no Mori is designed to be savored. Mid-way through the trip, we made our way to the lounge car to participate in a classic Japanese rail tradition: the commemorative stamp. We stamped our postcards to mark the date and even took a photo with a dated signboard for the occasion. For lunch, we enjoyed a beautifully arranged bento box (Ediben 駅弁) filled with seasonal local ingredients, followed by a rich, velvety matcha ice cream for dessert. Watching the lush green countryside roll by while indulging in local treats made the two-hour journey feel far too short.
Minou Mountain Range, Jion-no-taki Falls 耳納群山, 慈恩瀑布
隨著列車深入鄉村腹地，沿途的景色宛如一幅流動的風景畫。我們沿著耳納群山的山腳行駛，連綿起伏的翠綠山峰如同一道守護的屏障，橫亙在地平線上。然而，此行最令人難忘的，莫過於途經慈恩瀑布。列車長貼心地放慢速度，緩緩駛近這座壯麗的雙層瀑布，讓我們得以近距離欣賞瀑布傾瀉而下的壯觀景象，覺得不虛此行。
As the train ventured deeper into the countryside, the scenery transformed into a moving landscape painting. We passed along the foot of the Minou Mountain Range, its rolling green peaks stretching across the horizon like a protective wall. The highlight of the ride, however, was passing Jion-no-taki Falls. The train thoughtfully slowed to a crawl as we approached the magnificent two-tiered waterfall, allowing us to capture the sight of the water cascading down the dark rock face. It made our trip worthwhile.
由於今天晚上要住在熊本，我們拖著大行李出門，幸好火車站有置物櫃出租，還蠻方便的，讓我們免去了拖著行李的麻煩。將行李安頓好之後，我們便在火車站的對面 Yururin 餐廳吃了ㄧ頓美味的日本料理。這家溫馨舒適的餐廳是開啟下一段旅程前補充能量的最佳選擇。
Since we were headed to Kumamoto later that evening, we had to bring our large suitcases along for the day. Thankfully, the train station offered convenient lockers for rent, which saved us from dragging our luggage around. Once we were unburdened and settled, we headed across from the train station for a delicious Japanese meal at Yururin. It was the perfect, cozy spot to refuel before our next adventure.
吃飽了、喝足了，我們神清氣爽地前往金麟湖。沿途的風景本身就是一場奇遇，我們經過了各種獨特的精品店和充滿奇思妙想的小店。其中一家特別吸引我，它提供各種各樣的材料和裝飾品，讓顧客可以親手設計和製作屬於自己的特製鞋——真是個極富創意的概念！
從金鱗湖回火車站的途中，我們順道去了由布院花卉村。這裡彷彿置身童話世界，迷人的科茨沃爾德風格石屋和絢麗多彩的花卉令人流連忘返。為了給這美好的下午畫上句號，我為自己點了一份淋著當地蜂蜜的冰淇淋。身為冰淇淋愛好者，這無疑是我們在由布院之旅的完美甜蜜终曲。
Feeling refreshed after a satisfying meal, we made our way toward Lake Kinrin. The walk there was an adventure in itself, as we passed a variety of unique boutiques and whimsical shops. One that caught my eye offered an array of materials and decorations for a DIY experience, allowing visitors to design and craft their own custom shoes—a truly creative concept!
On the return stroll from Lake Kinrin, we detoured into the Yufuin Floral Village. It felt like stepping into a fairy tale, with its charming Cotswold-style stone houses and vibrant floral displays. To top off the afternoon, I treated myself to a swirl of soft-serve ice cream drizzled with local honey. As a devoted ice cream lover, it was the perfect, sweet finale to our time in Yufuin.
Lake Kinrin 金鱗湖
回過來看看金鱗湖。金鱗湖靜臥於由布岳山腳下，是一處風景如畫的湖泊，以其神秘的晨霧而聞名。由於湖中悠游的魚鱗在夕陽照射下閃耀金色光芒，因而得「金鱗湖」之名。一條 400 公尺長的緩坡步道環繞湖面，是悠閒漫步的理想選擇。金鱗湖堪稱自然奇觀：西側流入溫暖的溫泉水，東側則注入清涼的泉水。這種獨特的溫差使湖水常年保持在攝氏 17 至 23 度之間。尤其是在每年的 9 月至隔年 3 月，溫暖的湖面與清爽的晨霧交融，形成一層濃厚的薄霧，將金鱗湖裝點成如夢境般的絕美景象。
照片中，可以看到金麟湖豐之國旅館 (Pension Kinrinko Toyonokuni)，這是一家以豐富的天然溫泉水而聞名的迷人溫泉旅館。客人可以在這裡享受寬敞的公共浴池，體驗日式旅館的精髓。旅館最大的亮點之一是其優越的地理位置：它坐落在金麟湖畔，因此對於那些想要隨時欣賞清晨薄霧的人來說，這裡是理想之選。旅館內還設有便利的餐廳，是您在漫長的一天遊覽後享用輕鬆晚餐的完美場所。
Let's take a look back at Lake Kinrin. Nestled at the foot of Mount Yufu is Lake Kinrin, a picturesque pond famous for its mystical morning mist. Its name, which means 'Golden Scale Lake,' was inspired by the way the setting sun reflects off the scales of the fish swimming within it. A gentle 400-meter walking trail circles the water, offering a perfect, leisurely stroll. The lake is a natural marvel: warm hot spring water flows in from the west, while cool, clear spring water enters from the east. This unique thermal blend keeps the water between 17°C and 23°C year-round. Especially from September through March, the warm surface meets the crisp morning air to create a thick, ethereal fog, turning the lake into a scene from a dream.
In the photos, you’ll spot Pension Kinrinko Toyonokuni, a charming hot spring inn celebrated for its incredibly abundant supply of natural thermal water. Guests here can soak in spacious shared baths, which are the heart of the ryokan experience. One of its greatest draws is its premier location; it sits right on the edge of Lake Kinrin, making it highly regarded for those who want to catch the morning mist at a moment's notice. The property also features a convenient on-site restaurant, perfect for a relaxing meal after a long day of exploring.
Kamenoi Besso 龜之井別莊
在金麟湖附近靜謐的小徑漫步時，我們偶然發現了一處美麗的傳統秀珍縮影，宛如一片隱密的聖地。我想我們當時應該是在一家著名的溫泉旅館（日式旅館）內，很可能是歷史悠久的龜之井別莊 (Kamenoi Besso)。這裡的建築風格似乎是經典的數寄屋（一種精緻的茶室風格），與周圍的自然景色交相輝映，顯得格外優雅。
這裡的氛圍異常寧靜，因為我們沒有看到什麼人。後來我查了一下，才知道這些豪華莊園的設計初衷就是為了營造「隱密」的氛圍。客人通常住在獨立的別墅裡，工作人員也很低調，讓花園感覺就像是專屬於你的私人花園。
在離開這片寧靜的世外桃源之前，我們又發現了一家名為 Kagiya 的可愛店鋪，它隱匿於一棟木質建築之中。這家店以「精緻禮品」聞名，店內琳瑯滿目地擺放著各種高品質的手工藝品，從手工果醬、柚子胡椒等特色調味料到精美的漆器，應有盡有。這裡是欣賞優雅建築、感受由布院歷史底蘊的絕佳去處。
While wandering the quiet paths near Lake Kinrin, we stumbled upon a beautiful pocket of tradition that felt like a hidden sanctuary. I believe we were on the grounds of a prestigious hot spring inn (ryokan), likely the historic Kamenoi Besso. The architecture here appeared to be classic Sukiya-zukuri (a refined tea-house style), which looked incredibly elegant against the natural backdrop.
The atmosphere was remarkably serene as we didn't encounter any other guests while we were there. After doing some research, I realized these luxury estates are designed to be 'hush-hush.' Guests are usually tucked away in private villas, and the staff are so discreet that the gardens feel like a private park just for you.
Before leaving this peaceful enclave, we found a lovely shop called Kagiya nestled inside one of the wooden buildings. Known for its 'exquisite gifts,' the shop was filled with high-quality artisanal goods, from handmade jams and specialized seasonings like Yuzu Kosho to beautiful lacquerware. It was the perfect place to admire the elegant architecture and soak in the quiet beauty of Yufuin's heritage.
Tenso Shrine 天祖神社
我們繼續沿著湖邊漫步，順道去了天祖神社參觀。神社隱匿在湖邊較為僻靜的一側，彷彿置身於另一個世界。神社最引人注目的是那座從水中拔地而起的小型鳥居，在霧氣繚繞的湖面和周圍森林的映襯下，顯得格外美麗。站在神社內高聳入雲的古老杉樹下，我們感到內心無比平靜。這是一個美好而充滿靈性的時刻，展現了由布院更為傳統的一面。
雖然「漂浮」的鳥居最引人注目，但這裡的歷史更加引人入勝。傳說這片湖泊是曾經覆蓋整個由布院盆地的一片汪洋大海的最後遺跡。一條失去家園的龍曾在此向神明祈禱，承諾守護這片土地，以換取一處棲身之所。如今，這座神社仍守護著龍的聖地。漫步於千年古樹旁，看著湖水在石鳥居周圍蕩漾，人們很容易相信，九州的古老神靈依然守護著這片寧靜祥和的土地。
以下是《歷史聚焦：天祖神社與龍的承諾》的更深入內容
金麟湖的傳說: 很久以前，由布院盆地曾經是一片浩瀚的湖泊。根據當地傳說，一位女神為了給人們創造土地，排乾了盆地的水，使一條棲息於此的龍失去了家園。龍懇求天祖神賜予它一個棲身之所，並承諾守護這片山谷及其水域作為回報。天祖神最終賜給它一處小小的庇護所──也就是我們今天所知的金麟湖。
- 浮島鳥居：這座矗立在水中的石門標誌著龍的聖域邊界。在冬日清晨的薄霧中，它顯得格外空靈縹緲。
- 千年古杉：園內矗立著一棵巨大的御神木（聖樹）。它是一棵指定的天然紀念物，見證了十多個世紀的歷史。
- 古老的根源：記錄顯示，該神社的起源可以追溯到景行天皇時期（近 2000 年前），使其成為該地區最古老的靈性場所之一。
- 三重庇護：此處實際上包含三座神社，其中包括一座金毘羅神社，專門為旅行者和水手提供庇護。
Continuing our walk around the water's edge, we also stopped by Tenso Shrine to look around. Tucked away on the quieter side of the lake, the shrine felt like a world of its own. Its most striking feature is the small Torii gate rising directly out of the water, which looked stunning against the backdrop of the misty lake and the surrounding forest. Standing beneath the towering ancient cedar trees on the shrine grounds, we felt a deep sense of calm. It was a beautiful, spiritual moment that showcased the more traditional side of Yufuin.
While the 'floating' torii gate is what catches the eye, the history here is even more captivating. According to legend, this lake is the last remnant of a giant sea that once covered the entire Yufuin Basin. A dragon who lost its home prayed to the gods here, promising to protect the land in exchange for a place to rest. Today, the shrine still guards that dragon’s sanctuary. Walking past the 1,000-year-old sacred cedar tree and watching the water ripple around the stone torii, it’s easy to believe that the ancient spirits of Kyushu are still watching over this peaceful corner of the world.
Here’s a deeper dive into the Historical Spotlight: Tenso Shrine & the Dragon’s Promise
The Legend of Lake Kinrin: Long ago, the Yufuin Basin was a massive lake. According to local lore, a goddess drained the basin to create land for the people, leaving a resident dragon without a home. The dragon pleaded with the Tenso deity for a place to stay, promising to protect the valley and its waters in return. The deity granted a small sanctuary—the waters we now know as Lake Kinrin.
- The Floating Torii: This stone gate standing in the water marks the boundary of the dragon's sacred domain. It is particularly ethereal during the winter morning mist.
- The 1,000-Year-Old Cedar: A massive Goshinboku (sacred tree) stands on the grounds. It is a designated natural monument and has witnessed over ten centuries of history.
- Ancient Roots: Records suggest the shrine’s origin dates back to the era of Emperor Keikō (nearly 2,000 years ago), making it one of the oldest spiritual sites in the region.
- Triple Protection: The site actually houses three shrines in one, including a Konpira Shrine, which specifically offers protection to travelers and sailors.
當我們正欣賞鳥居時，看到兩隻日本鸕鶿棲息在鳥居上。我在加州也見過鸕鶿，但眼前的這隻鸕鶿體型更大，氣勢更勝一籌，著實讓我驚訝。它帶著一種古老而威嚴的氣息，深色的羽毛與霧氣繚繞的湖面形成鮮明對比。這種鳥在日本有著悠久的歷史，常被用於傳統的捕魚上。如今在野外見到兩隻，彷彿湖中傳說的龍與如今這片土地上生機勃勃的自然之間，一種完美的連結。
While we were admiring the Torii gate, we spotted two Japanese Cormorants perched on the gate. Having seen cormorants back home in California, I was struck by how much larger and more imposing this species appeared. It sat with an air of ancient authority, its dark feathers contrasting against the misty lake. These birds have a deep history in Japan, often used in traditional fishing, and seeing two here in the wild felt like a perfect connection between the lake’s legendary dragon and the nature that thrives there today.
夜幕降臨，我們返回車站。離開山區時，我們登上由布院之森號列車，熟悉的木質內裝帶來舒適的乘坐體驗，列車駛向久留米。轉乘時間恰到好處；在久留米，我們告別了緩慢而風景如畫的森林列車，換乘了高效快捷的櫻花號 563 新幹線。櫻花號本身就是一列美麗的列車，平穩安靜的旅程與我們忙碌的一天形成了鮮明的對比。不知不覺中，我們已抵達熊本站。充實的一天終於結束了。
As evening approached, we headed back to the station. For the journey out of the mountains, we boarded the Yufuin No Mori, enjoying the familiar comfort of its wooden interiors as we headed toward Kurume. The transfer was perfectly timed; at Kurume, we swapped the slow, scenic pace of the forest train for the high-speed efficiency of the Sakura 563 Shinkansen. The Sakura is a beautiful train in its own right, and the smooth, quiet ride was a welcome contrast to our busy day of walking. Before we knew it, we had arrived at Kumamoto Station. Our action-packed day had finally come to an end.
福岡和熊本的住宿都讓我印象深刻：房間真的非常小！雖然兩家旅館都貼心地為我們準備了傳統的睡衣，但房間本身還是有點擁擠。在熊本，床幾乎完全塞進了房間，睡在「裡面」的人起床都得費一番功夫。連床尾的走道都窄得要命，半夜起床都要扶著床墊才能保持平衡。不過，這也算是道地又溫馨的日式城市飯店體驗的一部分吧！
看看我的健身追蹤器，我今天走了 5.35 英里——超過 12990 步！
One thing to note about our accommodations in both Fukuoka and Kumamoto: the rooms were undeniably tiny! While both hotels thoughtfully provided traditional nightgowns for us to wear, the space itself was a bit of a squeeze. In Kumamoto, the bed was tucked so tightly into the room that the person sleeping on the 'inside' had to perform some acrobatics just to get out. Even the walkway at the foot of the bed was so narrow that navigating the room in the middle of the night required holding onto the mattress for balance. It’s all part of the authentic, cozy Japanese city-hotel experience!
Looking at my fitness trackers, I had clocked 5.35 miles—over 12,990 steps today!
🚆 Stay tuned for more of our Kyushu, Japan adventures!
World Through My Eyes (Photographs) Posts/我鏡頭裏的世(視)界帖子
Travel/Point of Interest Posts 旅遊景點帖子
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