Japan Kyushu Travel Journal 日本九州旅行日記 3

從小到大，「長崎」這個名字就是與我以前曾吃的那種香甜濃鬱的蜂蜜蛋糕的美味連在一起。這份兒時的好奇心最終把我帶到了這裡，但在深入探索這座城市之前，我必須先說說我們的行程。我們搭乘的是日本舉世聞名的新幹線高速鐵路。它堪稱工程奇蹟，最高時速可達 320 公里，快速平穩，既舒適又準時可靠。

拋開科技本身，真正打動我的是其中的「人」的元素。在月台上，車站工作人員手持麥克風，有節奏、精準地播報著列車資訊。當列車緩緩駛離時，他們會向即將離去的車廂深深鞠躬。這種對工作的全然奉獻和尊重，給我留下了深刻的印象。

Ever since I was a child, the name 'Nagasaki' was synonymous with the sweet, rich taste of Castella—the famous honey cake my family used to share. That childhood curiosity finally brought me here, but before I dive into the city itself, I have to mention the journey. We arrived via the Shinkansen, Japan’s world-renowned high-speed rail. It is a marvel of engineering, reaching speeds of up to 320 km/h while remaining impossibly punctual and comfortable.

Beyond the technology, it was the human element that moved me. On the platform, station staff stand with microphones, rhythmically calling out announcements with precision. As the train pulls away, they perform a deep, formal bow toward the departing carriages. This display of absolute dedication and respect for their craft left a lasting impression on me.

Photo Date: 2024.04.10 Location: Shinkansen station

Nagasaki 長崎

長崎與日本其他城市截然不同。它的獨特身份始於 1570 年，那時便開放給葡萄牙人作為貿易港，最終在江戶時代鎖國時期成為日本通往世界的唯一窗口。這段與荷蘭和中國獨特的交流歷史，造就了遍布歐式建築和蜿蜒梯田式的街道的迷人景觀。

這種國際影響不僅體現在建築上，也體現在信仰上；商船上的傳教士的到來使長崎成為基督教的堡壘。如今，長崎有日本最高的基督徒比例，並設有自己的天主教總教區。另一方面，幾個世紀以來與中國的貿易往來催生了新地中華街，它是日本三大中華街之一。然而，長崎的歷史也充滿了悲劇；它是二戰末期世界上第二個──也是所幸最後一個──遭受原子彈襲擊的城市。

從地理位置來看，長崎三面環山，迫使居民住宅依山而建。這造就了令人嘆為觀止的城市景觀，同時也帶來了許多挑戰。有「山坡之城」之稱的長崎，面臨嚴重的交通堵塞和有限的發展空間，導致其人口下降速度極快。然而，儘管有這些社會障礙，長崎山海交融的獨特魅力依然吸引著來自世界各地的遊客，他們渴望體驗這座城市獨具特色的國際氣息。

Nagasaki is unlike any other city in Japan. Its identity was forged in 1570 when it opened to Portuguese traders, eventually becoming Japan’s sole window to the world during the isolationist Edo period. This unique history of exchange with the Netherlands and China left behind a landscape dotted with European-style architecture and winding, terraced streets.

This international influence extends beyond architecture to faith; the arrival of missionaries on merchant ships established Nagasaki as a bastion of Christianity. Today, it boasts the highest percentage of Christians in Japan and serves as the seat of its own Catholic Archdiocese. Conversely, centuries of Chinese trade gave rise to Shinchi Chinatown, one of the three largest in the country. However, Nagasaki’s history is also marked by tragedy; it was the second—and thankfully the last—city in the world to be devastated by an atomic bomb at the end of World War II.

Geographically, the city is cradled by mountains on three sides, forcing residences to cling to steep hillsides. While this creates a breathtaking urban landscape, it presents modern challenges. The 'City of Slopes' faces significant traffic congestion and limited space for growth, contributing to one of the fastest population declines in Japan. Yet, despite these social hurdles, Nagasaki’s rich tapestry of mountain and sea continues to draw travelers from around the globe, eager to experience its unique, international soul.

Location: Nagasaki station

我發現在日本，大型火車站往往不止是一個交通樞紐——它本身就是一個目的地。我們到過的每個大型車站都有龐大的購物中心，將零售與鐵路完美結合。這些購物中心乾淨整潔、舒適宜人，從當地美食、紀念品到日常必需品，應有盡有。無論是需要一份精緻的便當帶在路上享用，還是需要一份包裝精美的禮物，這些車站的便利性和周到的佈局都讓旅客和當地居民感到無比便利。

One thing I quickly realized is that in Japan, a major train station is far more than just a transit hub—it’s a destination in itself. Every large station we visited featured a massive shopping complex, seamlessly blending retail with rail. These centers are impeccably clean and comfortable, offering everything from local delicacies and souvenirs to everyday essentials. Whether you need a high-quality bento for your journey or a beautifully wrapped gift, the sheer convenience and thoughtful layout make these stations incredibly practical for travelers and locals alike.

Location: Nagasaki station

為了能好好地遊覽長崎獨特的地理環境，我們購買了一日電車通票，這無疑是遊覽這座城市最方便的方式。充滿魅力的復古電車穿梭於主要街道，連接著所有重要的歷史景點。成人一日通票售價 600 日圓。單次乘坐票價為 140 日圓。因此，只需乘坐五次即可回本。有了通票，我們可以隨意上下車，無需擔心單程票價。這讓我們的觀光之旅輕鬆而無壓力，使我們能夠專心欣賞美麗的風景，而不會為交通安排而煩惱。

To navigate Nagasaki’s unique geography, we purchased a one-day tram pass of Nagasaki Electric Tramway, which is arguably the most convenient way to see the city. These charming, vintage streetcars rumble through the main thoroughfares, connecting all the major historic sites. One-Day Pass costs 600 yen for adults. A single ride is a flat fare of 140 yen. So the pass pays for itself after just five rides. With the pass, we could hop on and off as much as we liked without worrying about individual fares. It made our sightseeing smooth and stress-free, allowing us to focus on the beautiful scenery rather than the logistics of transportation.

在浦天竹塘站下車，我們立刻能感受到海港鹹鹹的海風。前往禱告山繪本美術館的路上，彷彿進入了時光之旅。還沒看到博物館的建築，我們就已被古老的長崎風情環繞。我們走過一家家小巧精緻的店鋪，店內擺滿了精美的長崎玻璃器皿，空氣中瀰漫著附近烘焙的蜂蜜蛋糕的香甜氣味。腳下踩著傳統的石板路，建築風格也隨之改變——現代化的建築外牆被殖民風格的木質陽台和煤氣燈風格的路燈所取代，這些都成為這區域的標誌。彷彿這座小山本身就在為我們即將進入的奇幻童話世界做著準備。

Stepping off the tram at the Oura-Tianzhutang stop, we were immediately greeted by the salty tang of the harbor air. The walk toward the Inori-no-Oka Picture Book Museum felt like a journey back in time. Before we even saw the building, we were surrounded by the sights and sounds of old Nagasaki. We walked past small, inviting shops filled with delicate Nagasaki glassware and the sweet, unmistakable aroma of Castella cake being baked nearby. The ground beneath our feet shifted to traditional stone paving, and the architecture began to change—modern facades gave way to the colonial-style wooden balconies and gas-lamp-inspired streetlights that define this area. It felt as though the hill itself was preparing us for the whimsical, storybook world we were about to enter.

Oura Catholic Church (Oura Tenshudo) 大浦天主堂

從充滿奇趣的禱告山繪本美術館，我們開始沿著緩坡向上攀登，前往大浦天主教堂。這條路被稱為「荷蘭坡」。大浦天主教堂優雅地坐落在俯瞰港口的山坡上，是日本現存最古老的基督教教堂。這座令人驚嘆的哥德式建築由法國傳教士於 1864 年建成，最初是為了紀念日本的 26 位殉道者而建。教堂有潔白的牆壁和尖頂，被指定為國寶。然而，它真正的意義在於教會開放後不久發生的一個奇蹟：正是在這裡，為了躲避迫害而秘密信奉基督教 200 多年的「隱匿基督徒」終於向世人公開了自己的信仰。

From the whimsical charm of the Inori-no-Oka Picture Book Museum, we began the gentle climb toward Oura Catholic Church. The path is known as the 'Dutch Slope' area. Perched elegantly on a hillside overlooking the harbor, Oura Catholic Church is the oldest standing Christian church in Japan. Completed in 1864 by French missionaries, this stunning example of Gothic architecture was originally built to honor the 26 Martyrs of Japan. With its white-plastered walls and pointed spires, it stands as a designated National Treasure. However, its true significance lies in a miracle that happened shortly after its opening: it was here that the 'Hidden Christians,' who had practiced their faith in secret for over 200 years to avoid persecution, finally stepped forward to reveal themselves to the world.

Glover Garden 哥拉巴園

離開莊嚴的大浦教堂後，我們步入了鬱鬱蔥蔥的山頂花園－哥拉巴園。這裡不僅是一座花園，更是一處匯集了多座歷史悠久的西式宅邸的園林，這些宅邸被遷至此處，旨在保護 19 世紀末幫助日本實現現代化的外國商人的遺產。花園的核心建築是原哥拉巴宅邸，它是日本現存最古老的西式木造建築。漫步在修剪整齊的小徑上，彷彿穿越回到了明治時代，每轉過一個彎，長崎港的全景便映入眼簾——正是這片海域，將這些先驅者帶到了日本的海岸。

哥拉巴園是為紀念托馬斯·哥拉巴而建的公園。他究竟是誰？托馬斯·哥拉巴常被譽為「蘇格蘭武士」，是一位很有遠見的商人。他 21 歲時來到長崎，並成為日本轉型為現代工業強國的關鍵人物。在明治維新時期，他為試圖實現國家現代化的武士家族提供船隻和武器，並發揮了至關重要的作用。然而，他的影響力遠不止於貿易；他也是多家日本巨頭企業的創始人之一，協助建立了三菱造船廠和麒麟啤酒廠的前身。

除了卓越的商業才能，哥拉巴還因將第一台蒸汽機車引入日本並引進先進的採礦技術而為人銘記。他的個人生活也留下了文化印記；他與日本妻子鶴的婚姻常被浪漫地與著名歌劇《蝴蝶夫人》的創作靈感連起來。如今，他位於山頂的故居仍然是日本最古老的西式木造建築，象徵著長崎與西方世界之間深厚的歷史淵源。

After leaving the solemn beauty of Oura Church, we stepped into the lush, hilltop world of Glover Garden. This isn't just a garden; it’s a collection of historic Western-style mansions relocated here to preserve the legacy of the foreign merchants who helped modernize Japan in the late 1800s. The centerpiece is the Former Glover House, the oldest wooden Western-style building in the country. Walking through the manicured paths feels like a trip back to the Meiji era, with every turn offering a new panoramic view of Nagasaki Harbor, the very waters that brought these pioneers to Japan’s shores.

Glover Garden is a park built for Thomas Blake Glover. Who was he? Often called the "Scottish Samurai," Thomas Blake Glover was a visionary merchant who arrived in Nagasaki at the age of 21 and became a central figure in Japan’s transformation into a modern industrial power. He played a daring role during the Meiji Restoration by supplying ships and weapons to the samurai clans who sought to modernize the nation. His influence, however, extended far beyond trade; he was a founding father of several Japanese giants, helping to establish the Mitsubishi shipyards and the predecessor to Kirin Brewery.

Beyond his business brilliance, Glover is remembered for bringing the first steam locomotive to Japan and introducing advanced mining technology. His personal life also left a cultural mark; his marriage to his Japanese wife, Tsuru, is often romantically linked to the inspiration behind the famous opera Madame Butterfly. Today, his hilltop residence remains the oldest Western-style wooden building in Japan, serving as a lasting symbol of the deep historical ties between Nagasaki and the Western world.

Castella Cake 卡斯特拉/長崎蛋糕

如果說長崎有一種標誌性的美食，那無疑就是卡斯特拉/長崎蛋糕。這款口感濕潤、色澤金黃的海綿蛋糕，是 16 世紀由葡萄牙商人帶到長崎的。與傳統的日本甜點不同，長崎蛋糕是一種奢侈品，由麵粉、糖和雞蛋製成——這些在當時都是稀有原料。幾個世紀以來，長崎的工匠們不斷修改配方，最終創造出一種甜度適中、口感蓬鬆獨特的蛋糕。正宗長崎卡斯特拉蛋糕的標誌性特徵是底部那層酥脆的粗砂糖（日語稱作“ちゃんて”），它與柔軟的蛋糕形成了迷人的對比。

雖然許多店舖都出售長崎蛋糕，但文名堂總本店卻是業界最負盛名、歷史最悠久的品牌之一。文名堂於 1900 年創立於長崎，憑藉其優質的原料和 1960 年代風靡全國的電視廣告（廣告中跳舞的泰迪熊形象幾乎每個日本人都耳熟能詳），迅速成為日本的國民品牌。

前往位於長崎港附近的總店本身就是一種獨特的體驗。店舖坐落在一棟美麗的古典建築內，散發著大正時代的優雅氣息。店內至今仍沿用傳統工藝製作蛋糕，確保每一塊蛋糕都散發著濃鬱的蜂蜜香氣，這種香氣百餘年來一直令遊客著迷。它不僅僅是一件紀念品，更是一份裝在精美盒子裡的長崎國際歷史。進去選購蛋糕，尤如進了珠寶店，感覺特別。

If Nagasaki had a signature flavor, it would undoubtedly be Castella (known in Japanese as Kasutera). This moist, golden sponge cake was introduced to the city by Portuguese merchants in the 16th century. Unlike traditional Japanese sweets, Castella was a luxury made from flour, sugar, and eggs—ingredients that were rare at the time. Over the centuries, Nagasaki artisans perfected the recipe, creating a cake with a refined sweetness and a uniquely bouncy texture. The hallmark of an authentic Nagasaki Castella is the layer of crunchy coarse sugar (zara-me) at the bottom, which provides a delightful contrast to the soft sponge.

While many shops sell Castella, Bunmeido Souhonten stands as one of the most prestigious and historic names in the business. Founded in Nagasaki in 1900, Bunmeido became a national sensation, largely thanks to its high-quality ingredients and its famous 1960s television commercials featuring dancing teddy bears that every Japanese person knows by heart.

Visiting their Souhonten (Head Store) near the Nagasaki harbor is an experience in itself. The shop is housed in a beautiful, classic building that exudes an air of Taisho-era elegance. Inside, the cake is still made using traditional methods, ensuring that every slice carries the same rich, honey-like aroma that has enchanted travelers for over a hundred years. It is more than just a souvenir; it is a piece of Nagasaki's international history wrapped in a beautiful box. Going inside to buy a cake feels like entering a jewelry store; it's a unique experience.

Random things that I saw in this area.

Black Kite

Bay barnacles

Spectacles Bridge (Meganebashi) 眼鏡橋

下一站，我們來到了市中心，參觀眼鏡橋（Meganebashi）。這座橋由一位中國僧侶於 1634 年建造，是日本最古老的石拱橋，已被指定為重要文化財產。它的名字來自於一個美麗的視覺錯覺：當兩座拱橋倒映在靜謐的中島川水面上時，它們宛如一副完美的眼鏡。沿著河岸漫步，很容易理解為什麼這裡深受當地人和遊客的喜愛——古老的石頭與潺潺的流水交相輝映，營造出一種無比寧靜祥和的氛圍。

Our next stop brought us to the heart of the city to see Meganebashi, or the Spectacles Bridge. Built in 1634 by a Chinese monk, this is the oldest stone arch bridge in Japan and is designated as an Important Cultural Property. The name comes from a beautiful optical illusion: when the two arches reflect in the still waters of the Nakashima River, they form a perfect pair of spectacles. Walking along the riverbank, it’s easy to see why this spot is a favorite for locals and travelers alike—the combination of the historic stone and the gently flowing water feels incredibly peaceful.

Mount Inasa (Inasa-yama) 稻佐山

夕陽西下，我們搭乘計程車前往稻佐山，渴望一睹長崎著名的「千萬美元夜景」。買好票後，我們加入了長崎纜車的隊伍，但隊伍實在太長了。我們站在那裡估算等待時間，感覺彷彿永遠等不到盡頭。我們當機立斷，決定把票賣給排隊的其他遊客，然後留在山腳下，去參觀淵神社。

事實證明，這是一個絕妙的決定。當人群都忙著登頂時，我們幾乎獨享了神社寧靜的庭院。漫步在參天大樹下，穿過鮮豔的紅色鳥居，我們感到內心無比平靜。這美好的體驗提醒我們，有時，旅行中最令人難忘的時刻，恰恰來自於你跳出常規，去探索眼前的美好。

As the sun began to set, we took a taxi to Mount Inasa, eager to witness Nagasaki's famous 'Ten Million Dollar Night View.' After purchasing our tickets, we joined the queue for the Nagasaki Ropeway (the gondola), but the line was massive. As we stood there calculating the wait time, it felt as though it would take forever. We made a quick executive decision: we sold our tickets to some grateful travelers in line and decided to stay at the foot of the mountain to explore Fuchi Shrine instead.

It turned out to be a wonderful decision. While the crowds were focused on reaching the summit, we had the shrine’s serene grounds almost to ourselves. Walking beneath the towering trees and passing through the vibrant red torii gates, we felt a deep sense of calm. It was a beautiful reminder that sometimes the most rewarding travel moments happen when you step out of line to explore what is right in front of you.

在搭火車返回博多之前，我們最後一站是充滿活力的新地中華街。我們搭乘計程車前往蘇州林，享用了一碗熱騰騰的長崎什錦麵（強棒麵）。沒有什麼比這道當地特色美食更能完美地結束一天的行程了，濃鬱的奶油湯底裡滿滿都是新鮮的海鮮和蔬菜。經過一整天的探索，這碗麵簡直是極致的慰藉。看看我的智慧手環，我走了 5.39 英里——超過 13000 步！雖然疲憊但心滿意足地前往車站，我們帶著長崎的美味回到了福岡。

Before catching our train back to Hakata, we made one final stop in the vibrant streets of Shinchi Chinatown. We took a taxi to Suzhoulin to enjoy a steaming bowl of Nagasaki Champon (Qiangbang noodles). There was no better way to end the day than with this iconic local dish, packed with fresh seafood and vegetables in a rich, creamy broth. It was the ultimate comfort food after a long day of exploring. Looking at my fitness trackers, I had clocked 5.39 miles—over 13,000 steps! Tired but satisfied, we headed to the station, carrying the savory flavors of Nagasaki with us back to Fukuoka.