Japan Kyushu Travel Journal 日本九州旅行日記 2

今天要去佐世堡的九十九島珍珠海洋遊覽區，但在介紹這個旅遊勝地之前，我得先穿插ㄧ個小故事。

昨天在博多站，我們注意到一家小甜點店門口排起了長隊。香味撲鼻而來，實在迷人，但怎麼也看不懂他們在賣的是什麼──招牌全是日文。今天，出於好奇，我們再次來到車站，決心嚐嚐這「神秘美食」。

排隊等候後，我們才知道這家店在賣迷你牛角包。但是新的難題出現了：我們看不懂價目表和口味說明。最後，我們只能指指點點亂買ㄧ通，拎著滿滿一袋走了。吃了之後才猜出有三種口味，原味、巧克力味和蕃薯味。說實話，味道還不錯，但沒有我們之前想像的那麼驚艷！

Today’s destination is the Kujukushima Pearl Sea Resort in Sasebo, but before we get there, I have to share a little story from the station.

Yesterday at Hakata Station, we noticed an enormous queue for a small sweets shop. The aroma was absolutely intoxicating, but for the life of us, we couldn't tell what people were buying—the signs were all in Japanese. Today, fueled by curiosity, we returned to the station determined to try this 'mystery food.'

After waiting our turn, we realized the specialty was mini croissants. However, a new challenge appeared: we couldn't decipher the price list or the flavors. We ended up just pointing randomly and walking away with a bagful. After tasting them, I guessed there were three flavors: original, chocolate, and sweet potato. To be honest? They were good, but perhaps didn't quite live up to the massive hype we had imagined!

Photo Date: 2024.04.10 Location: Hakata Station

Sasebo 佐世堡

言歸正傳，讓我們看看佐世堡是個什麼樣的地方。佐世保位於九州島西北角，是長崎縣的第二大城市。其迷人的西海岸線由峽灣地形構成－一系列深水海灣和曲折的入海口，形成了一個天然的避風港。

這種獨特的地理環境塑造了佐世保的命運。明治時期，日本帝國海軍選擇在此建立重要的海軍基地，使佐世保成為保衛日本西部海域的戰略要塞。這也帶動了當地城市的快速發展和現代化進程。

二戰後，這座城市的命運發生了翻天覆地的變化。由於遭受了大規模空襲以及隨後帝國海軍的解散，因而人口急劇下降。然而，海軍的深刻影響仍得以延續；美國海軍第七艦隊將部分原帝國海軍設施改建為美國海軍佐世保艦隊基地，該基地至今仍在運行。

現代佐世保完美融合了其悠久的軍事歷史和令人嘆為觀止的自然美景。這座城市群山環繞，西側至南側面朝大海，自然景觀得天獨厚。如今，遊客來到這裡不僅是為了探索其海軍歷史，更是為了探索這座通往壯麗的九十九島的門戶城市。

我們從博多搭火車去佐世堡，我們一行四人，都已年過六旬，站在檢票口前，看著手裡那一疊車票，不禁有些摸不著頭緒。但是我們早已領悟到「不恥下問」才是旅行的真諦；問了人才知道，只需將七日通票和今日這次車程火車票一起放入檢票口即可。出國旅行，尤其是在語言不通的國家，難免會遇到各種挑戰──但只要你不怕「問」，總能找到辦法解決問題。

Getting back to the main point, let's take a look at what kind of place Sasebo is. Located in the northwestern corner of Kyushu, Sasebo is the second-largest city in Nagasaki Prefecture. Its stunning western coastline is defined by a ria topography—a series of deep-water bays and jagged inlets that created a natural, sheltered harbor.

This unique geography shaped Sasebo's destiny. During the Meiji era, the Imperial Japanese Navy selected this site for a major naval base, transforming Sasebo into a strategic stronghold for the defense of Japan’s western seas. This military presence sparked a period of rapid urban growth and modernization.

The city’s trajectory shifted dramatically following World War II. After suffering extensive air raids and the subsequent dissolution of the Imperial Navy, the city's population saw a sharp decline. However, the naval legacy lived on; a portion of the former Imperial facilities was repurposed by the U.S. Navy’s Seventh Fleet, establishing the U.S. Fleet Activities Sasebo base which remains active today.

Modern Sasebo is a fascinating blend of its military past and its breathtaking natural beauty. Surrounded by mountains and facing the sea from the west to the south, it offers scenery that is truly exceptional. Today, visitors come not just for the naval history, but to explore a city that serves as the gateway to the stunning Kujukushima (99 Islands).

We set off from Hakata to Sasebo by train. As a group of four, all of us over sixty, we stood before the ticket gates feeling a bit puzzled by the stack of tickets in our hands. However, we’ve learned that the 'spirit of inquiry' is the best travel tool; by asking around, we discovered that we simply needed to feed both our seven-day passes and our specific train tickets into the gate together. Traveling abroad, especially in a country where you don't speak the language, is bound to present challenges—but there is always a way to solve them if you aren't afraid to ask.

從博多到佐世保的火車之旅，讓我得以一窺日本鄉村的迷人風景。眺望著一望無際的稻田，這鄉村景色竟讓我想起台灣南部。沿途經過的大多是古樸雅緻的兩層小樓，但偶爾也會駛入一些較為繁華的城鎮，現代化的高樓大廈林立，構成了一道道天際線。在這些新建的建築間，我偶爾也能瞥見一些有獨特屋頂線條的傳統日式建築。有趣的是，我還注意到許多房屋都安裝了太陽能電板，這清楚地表明，即使在較為鄉下地區，日本也在積極推動綠色能源的發展。

The train ride from Hakata to Sasebo offered a beautiful window into rural Japan. Looking out at the vast rice paddies, I was struck by how much the countryside reminded me of southern Taiwan. Most of the homes we passed were charming two-story houses, though every so often, we would roll through a more prosperous town where modern high-rises dominated the skyline. Amidst the newer developments, I caught glimpses of traditional Japanese architecture with its distinctive rooflines. Interestingly, I also noticed a high number of homes equipped with solar panels, a clear sign of Japan's move toward green energy even in its quieter regions.

抵達佐世保後，我們搭乘了一輛開往九十九島珍珠海洋度假村的巴士。這裡的乘車方式非常獨特：從中間的車門上車，領取一張叫做「編號票」（seiri-ken）的小紙條。這張票上會清楚標示你的上車位置，以便計算車資。行駛過程中，巴士前方的電子螢幕會即時更新每一段路程的票價。

下車時，你走到前面去司機處付款。我注意到司機禮貌地跟每位下車的乘客打招呼。雖然我還沒完全聽懂他的日語，但他熱情友善的語氣讓這段旅程即便存在語言障礙，也讓人倍感親切。

After reaching Sasebo, we hopped on a local bus bound for the Kujukushima Pearl Sea Resort. The boarding process here is quite unique: you enter through the middle door and take a small paper slip called a numbered ticket (seiri-ken). This ticket indicates exactly where you boarded so the fare can be calculated. As you ride, a digital screen at the front of the bus updates the price for each segment in real-time.

When it’s time to depart, you head to the front and pay at the driver’s station. I noticed the driver politely said something to every single passenger as they hopped off. While I haven't quite deciphered the Japanese yet, his tone was so welcoming that it made the journey feel incredibly personal despite the language barrier.

Kujukushima Pearl Sea Resort 九十九島珍珠海洋遊覽區

九十九島，雖然字面意思是「99 座島嶼」，但實際上卻多達 208 座，散落在西海國立公園波光粼粼的藍色海面上。這片翠綠的群島是日本島嶼密度最高的群島之一。大部分的島嶼無人居住，保留原始的自然風貌，嶙峋的石灰岩峭壁和茂密的松樹彷彿漂浮在海面上。這裡的景色如此美麗，甚至被用作電影《最後的武士》的開場場景。親眼目睹，便能明白為何這片海岸線被譽為日本最美的風景區之一。

九十九島珍珠海洋遊覽區是通往日本最令人嘆為觀止的海洋景觀之一的門戶。它不僅僅是一個碼頭，更是一個設計精美的公園，融合了教育、探險和當地特色。無論您是自然愛好者、美食家還是歷史迷，這個遊覽區都能讓您深入體驗佐世保的獨特魅力。

這裡主要有以下幾個亮點：

壯麗的海上巡禮：遊覽船體驗
這是遊覽區的重頭戲。你可以乘坐造型獨特的遊覽船，穿梭於 208 座島嶼之間:
- 珍珠皇后號（Pearl Queen）: 全白色的優雅船身，像一位海上皇后。這是一艘大型、平穩的帆船造型船，適合想安靜欣賞風景的遊客。
- 未來號（Mirai）: 日本首門電力推進的「海盜船」，紅白相間的船身非常吸睛。它為遊客帶來充滿樂趣且環保的探險之旅。其獨特的造型使其成為家庭遊客的最愛，也是在蔚藍大海的映襯下拍攝照片的絕佳對象。
西海國立公園：九十九島水族館（海閃閃）
雖然它的規模不比沖繩或大阪水族館，但卻非常有特色，專注於展示九十九島周邊的海洋生態。
- 水母交響樂廳（Jellyfish Symphony Dome）: 日本最大的水母展示區之一，在柔和的音樂和燈光下，步入一個空靈美麗的世界。在這座昏暗的大廳裡，珍稀水母在發光的水箱中漂浮，伴隨著舒緩的音樂——這是一次真正令人著迷的「療癒」體驗。
- 九十九島灣大水缸: 這是日本少數的露天魚缸之一，可以讓自然陽光透過水面照射進來，展現出魚兒最鮮豔、最自然的色彩。
體驗活動：珍珠採集
正如其名，這個遊覽區提供採珠體驗。您可以挑選一顆活牡蠣，小心翼翼地從中取出屬於您自己的珍珠。只需支付少量費用，當地工匠就能將您找到的珍珠鑲嵌成項鍊或戒指——真正獨一無二的旅行紀念品。這也是「珍珠海洋」名稱的由來。
美食：佐世保的風味
不到當地品嚐美食，遊覽就不算完整。
- 九十九島牡蠣: 這些牡蠣個頭雖小，但味道卻極為鮮美，是當地的珍寶。如果您在冬季到訪，甚至還有機會趕上「烤牡蠣祭」！
- 佐世保漢堡（Sasebo Burger）: 你會發現許多攤位都在供應這些巨型手工漢堡，尺寸驚人且食材豐富，它們已經成為這座城市獨特的日美融合文化的象徵。

抵達九十九島後，我們直接去售票處查看遊船時刻表，因為遊船通常每小時一班。我們決定登上優雅的白色觀光船「珍珠皇后號」，悠閒地遊覽九十九島的碧綠島嶼。

當我們的船緩緩駛過靜謐的海灣時，我注意到水面上漂浮著幾座珍珠養殖場。其中一座尤其引起我的注意：它的名字是「TASAKI」。對於關注高級珠寶的人來說，TASAKI 是日本的傳奇品牌，也是世界頂級珍珠品牌之一。親眼目睹如此高端奢侈品的起源，真覺得有意思。那些最後銷往東京和巴黎高級時裝精品店的珍珠，很可能就誕生於九十九島這片豐富的海域上。

While its name translates literally to '99 Islands,' the Kujukushima area is actually home to a staggering 208 islands scattered across the sparkling blue waters of the Saikai National Park. This emerald-green archipelago is one of the most densely packed island groups in all of Japan. Most of these islands are uninhabited, preserved in their wild, natural state with jagged limestone cliffs and lush pine trees that seem to float on the sea. It is a landscape so beautiful it was even used as the backdrop for the opening scenes of the film The Last Samurai. To see it is to understand why this coastline is considered one of the most scenic spots in the entire country.

The Kujukushima Pearl Sea Resort serves as the gateway to one of Japan’s most breathtaking maritime landscapes. More than just a pier, it is a beautifully designed park that blends education, adventure, and local flavors. Whether you are a nature lover, a foodie, or a history buff, this resort offers a deep dive into the unique spirit of Sasebo.

Hear includes the following key highlights:

Set Sail on a Maritime Adventure
The highlight of any visit is taking to the water to weave through the 208 islands. You have two distinct ways to cruise:
- The Pearl Queen: An elegant, multi-deck white sailing ship that glides gracefully through the water. It offers a tranquil, panoramic view of the rugged coastline—perfect for those who want to soak in the scenery in peace.
- The Mirai: A bold, red "Pirate Hat" styled ship. As Japan’s first electric-powered excursion vessel, it offers a fun, eco-friendly adventure. Its quirky design makes it a favorite for families and a fantastic subject for photos against the blue sea.
Umikirara: The Sparkling Sea Aquarium
This stunning aquarium focuses specifically on the local life of the Kujukushima bays.
- The Jellyfish Symphony Dome: Step into a world of ethereal beauty. In this darkened hall, rare jellyfish float in glowing tanks accompanied by soothing music—it is a truly hypnotic, "healing" experience.
- Outdoor Grand Tank: One of the few open-air tanks in Japan, it allows natural sunlight to filter through the water, showing the fish in their most vibrant, natural colors.
A Hands-On Pearl Experience
True to its name, the resort allows you to try your hand at Pearl Harvesting. You can select a live oyster and carefully extract your very own pearl from within. For a small fee, local artisans can set your find into a necklace or a ring—a truly one-of-a-kind souvenir from your travels.
A Taste of Sasebo
No visit is complete without sampling the local delicacies.
- Kujukushima Oysters: Known for being small but incredibly rich in flavor, these oysters are a local treasure. If you visit in winter, you might even catch the open-air oyster grilling festivals!
- The Legendary Sasebo Burger: You’ll find stalls serving these massive, handmade burgers that have become a symbol of the city’s unique Japanese-American fusion culture.

Upon arriving, we headed straight to the ticket office to check the cruise timetable, as the boats typically depart once every hour. We decided to board the Pearl Queen, an elegant white sightseeing ship, for a leisurely tour through the emerald-green islands of Kujukushima.

As our boat glided through the quiet bays, I noticed several pearl farms floating on the water's surface. One in particular caught my eye: it bore the name 'TASAKI.' For those who follow fine jewelry, TASAKI is a legendary Japanese brand and one of the world's most prestigious names in pearls. It was fascinating to see the humble origins of such high-end luxury, knowing that the pearls destined for high-fashion boutiques in Tokyo and Paris likely began their life right here in the nutrient-rich waters of Kujukushima.

遊輪結束後，我們隨便吃了些熱騰騰的飛魚拉麵作為午餐，然後在港口悠閒逛逛，享受著習習海風。下午，我們返回車站，搭乘火車前往長崎。我們便以這種輕鬆愜意的方式結束了在佐世保的時光。

After our cruise, we enjoyed a steaming bowl of local Ago Dashi Ramen for lunch before taking a leisurely stroll around the port to enjoy the sea breeze. In the afternoon, we headed back to the station to catch our train to Nagasaki. It was the perfect, low-key way to wrap up our time in Sasebo before moving on to the next chapter of our Kyushu journey.