2024 年四月，我們與朋友一起為期一周的九州之旅，這是我們第一次去日本玩，想要記錄ㄧ下我們的旅程。我們凌晨 4 點多起床，準備從台北出發去福岡。
飛往福岡的班機很快，兩個小時就到了，早上十點半便抵達福岡。但入境手續卻出乎意料地花了一段時間。我在日記裡如此記著，過關時要填寫類似表格三次， 二維碼 (QR Code) 總是出故障，網路也慢得要命。這與台灣高效率的快速通道系統形成了鮮明的對比，在台灣，札口多，只要掃描護照，幾秒鐘就能通關。實在太棒了。
終於過了關後，我們從國際航廈搭乘接駁巴士去坐火車前往博多站。途中，我們看到了櫻花。櫻花遍地盛開，可惜陰沉的天空無法顯露出它們的美麗。
In April 2024, we embarked on a week-long trip to Kyushu with friends—our first-ever visit to Japan. Determined to document every moment, I started the day with a 4 a.m. wake-up call in Taipei.
The flight to Fukuoka was a quick two hours, landing us there by 10:30 a.m., but the arrival process was unexpectedly chaotic. I wrote in my diary about the struggle: filling out the same forms three times, battling glitchy QR codes, and dealing with sluggish Wi-Fi. It was a stark contrast to Taiwan’s efficient fast-track system, where a simple passport scan clears you in seconds.
Once we finally made it through, we took a shuttle bus from the international terminal toward Hakata Station. Along the way, we caught our first glimpse of the cherry blossoms. They were everywhere, though the overcast sky unfortunately muted their brilliance.
Kyushu 九州
在我繼續記錄我們的旅程之前，先介紹一下九州。九州古名筑紫島，位於日本西南部，是日本本土四島中的第三大島。北隔關門海峽與本州相望，東北隔豐後水道與四國相對。
廣義的九州地區包括九州本島七縣（福岡、佐賀、長崎、大分、熊本、宮崎、鹿兒島）及沖繩縣。地理上，九州地形複雜，擁有阿蘇山、櫻島等著名活火山，因此溫泉資源極為豐富，有『溫泉天國』之美譽。
氣候方面，全島緯度約在北緯 30° 至 35° 間，四季分明。夏季高溫多濕，冬季北部較為寒冷且偶有降雪，南部則相對溫暖。
在經濟上，九州過去是重工業基地（如北九州市），今日則因半導體與汽車產業聚落而被稱為『矽島』。因為這裏是日本半導體（台積電熊本廠即位於此）和汽車製造（Toyota, Nissan, Honda 均有設廠）的重鎮。農業方面，除了米與茶之外，九州的畜牧業（如鹿兒島黑豬、宮崎牛）與水果（如草莓、柑橘）享譽全日本。此外，有田燒、伊萬里燒等日本瓷器亦聞名世界。
福岡市是九州最大的城市與商業中心，有繁忙的港口與機場；而長崎則是以歷史悠久的貿易港口著稱。
Before I continue documenting our journey, let me first introduce Kyushu. Kyushu, historically known as Tsukushi Island, is located in southwestern Japan and is the third largest of the country's four main islands. It is separated from Honshu to the north by the Kanmon Strait and faces Shikoku to the northeast across the Bungo Channel.
In a broad sense, the Kyushu region encompasses the seven prefectures on the main island (Fukuoka, Saga, Nagasaki, Oita, Kumamoto, Miyazaki, and Kagoshima) as well as Okinawa Prefecture. Geographically, Kyushu features complex, mountainous terrain defined by active volcanoes like Mount Aso and Sakurajima. This volcanic activity has blessed the region with abundant geothermal resources, earning it the reputation of a "Hot Spring Kingdom."
Located roughly between latitudes 30° and 35° North, the island experiences four distinct seasons. Summers are generally hot and humid due to Pacific high-pressure systems. Winters can be cold with occasional snow in the northern regions, while the south remains relatively mild.
Economically, while Kyushu was historically a heavy industry base (centered in Kitakyushu City), it is known today as "Silicon Island" due to its high concentration of semiconductor and automotive manufacturing industries. This is because it is a major center for Japanese semiconductors (TSMC's Kumamoto plant is located here) and automobile manufacturing (Toyota, Nissan, and Honda all have factories here). In terms of agriculture, beyond staples like rice and tea, Kyushu is famous across Japan for its premium livestock (such as Kagoshima black pork and Miyazaki Wagyu beef) and fruit production (including strawberries and citrus). The region is also world-renowned for its porcelain, particularly Arita and Imari ware.
Fukuoka City is the island's largest metropolis and commercial hub, serving as a major gateway with its busy port and airport. Nagasaki, meanwhile, is celebrated for its long history as a vital international trade port.
Fukuoka 福岡
福岡是九州島充滿活力、快速發展的首府，素有「日本創業之都」的美譽。地理位置上，福岡比東京更靠近首爾，兩千多年來一直是連接亞洲大陸的文化橋樑。如今，福岡完美融合了都市活力與海岸風光，有眾多地標性建築，例如高達 234 公尺的福岡塔和環繞古城護城河而建的靜謐的大濠 (Ohori) 公園。這座城市也是世界聞名的美食天堂，以其獨特的屋台 (Yatai)（露天美食攤位）而聞名，這些攤位在夜晚沿河而建；此外，每年春天都會舉辦博多咚咚節 (Hakata Dontaku) 等熱鬧非凡的節日，吸引數百萬遊客前來。
雖然現代城市名為福岡，但博多地區才是其歷史脈動的所在。博多曾是一個獨立的商業城鎮，於 1889 年併入福岡城下町，但它仍然保留著獨特的身份——這就是為什麼您抵達的車站是「博多站」而不是「福岡站」。這裡是博多豚骨拉麵 (Hakata Tonkotsu Ramen) 的發源地，也是櫛田神社 (Kushida Shrine) 等古老宗教場所的所在地，櫛田神社是這座城市傳統的守護神。對於旅行者來說，博多代表著「舊城區」的風情，透過狹窄的寺廟街道、傳統的絲綢織造工藝以及著名的博多祇園山笠祭 (Hakata Gion Yamakasa festival)，您可以一窺日本的過去。在山笠祭上，巨大的花車在街上競速，展現當地人純粹的自豪感。
在日本著名的觀光列車上搶到座位可不是件容易的事，車票通常提前很久就被預訂一空。所以我們到了博多站，首要任務就是先去排隊買票，排了好久的隊。雖然有服務人員幫忙客人預先尋找空位，減少買票時間，由於看不懂日文，我們排錯隊了，排到只售當日票的地方。但是這個售票小姐，很客氣，人又好，即使語言不通，她很有耐心地幫我們一張張預訂接下來幾天的票。等我們全部訂完票時，大家都又累又餓。我們向一位保全求助，他指引我們去了二樓的「拉麵街」，在那裡我們終於飽餐了一頓。
Fukuoka is the vibrant, fast-growing capital of Kyushu, famously known as the "Startup City" of Japan. Geographically closer to Seoul than Tokyo, it has served as a cultural bridge to mainland Asia for over 2,000 years. Today, it offers a perfect balance of urban energy and coastal beauty, featuring landmarks like the 234-meter-tall Fukuoka Tower and the serene Ohori Park, which was built around the old castle’s moat. The city is a world-renowned foodie paradise, beloved for its unique Yatai (open-air food stalls) that line the rivers at night and its high-energy festivals like Hakata Dontaku, which draws millions of visitors every spring.
While the modern city is named Fukuoka, the district of Hakata is where you’ll find its historic heartbeat. Formerly a separate merchant town, Hakata merged with the Fukuoka castle town in 1889, but it kept its distinct identity—which is why you arrive at Hakata Station rather than "Fukuoka Station." This area is the birthplace of Hakata Tonkotsu Ramen and the home of ancient spiritual sites like Kushida Shrine, the guardian of the city’s traditions. For travelers, Hakata represents the "Old Town" feel, offering a glimpse into Japan’s past through its narrow temple-lined streets, traditional silk weaving, and the legendary Hakata Gion Yamakasa festival, where massive floats are raced through the streets in a display of pure local pride.
Securing seats on Japan’s famous sightseeing trains can be a challenge; they are often fully booked well in advance. Upon arriving at Hakata Station, our first priority was to join the long queue for tickets. To speed things up, staff members usually circulate to help travelers find available seats, but since we didn't understand Japanese, we accidentally ended up in the wrong line—one reserved for same-day tickets only. Despite our mistake, the ticket agent was incredibly kind and patient. Even with the language barrier, she carefully helped us book our tickets for the following days, one by one. By the time we finished, everyone was exhausted and hungry. We checked with a security guard who pointed us toward the 'Ramen Street' on the second floor, where we finally enjoyed a much-needed meal.
我們今晚住皇冠假日酒店，離車站步行僅需 7-8 分鐘 (0.3 英里)，非常方便。在旅館大廳看到博多祇園山笠祭的擺設，雖未能親歷這祭典，但看到如此規模的展覽，也讓我們真切地感受到了它的盛大和文化意義。
原本計劃坐音速號列車去小倉城體驗日本風情與傳統文化，再轉車至門司港，一覽明治～大正時期建築風格的港町。然後去參觀下關，這個中日關係史中著名的馬關條約簽署地點。結果，熟料到旅館都下午 3、4 點了，於是大家改變計劃，決定留在旅館休息，晚上再出去逛。
We’re staying at the Crowne Plaza tonight, which is just a convenient 7–8 minute walk (0.3 miles) from the station. In the lobby, we were greeted by a display for the Hakata Gion Yamakasa Festival. Even though we didn't get to experience the festival in person, seeing the scale of the display gave us a real sense of its grandeur and cultural significance.
Our original itinerary included taking the Sonic Express to Kokura Castle to soak in the traditional Japanese atmosphere, followed by a trip to Mojiko (Moji Port) to admire the Meiji and Taisho-era architecture. We also planned to visit Shimonoseki, a city deeply significant to Sino-Japanese history as the site of the Treaty of Shimonoseki. However, after the long journey, we didn't reach the hotel until nearly 3:30 PM. We decided to adjust our plans, opting for some much-needed rest before heading out to explore in the evening.
Canal City Hakata 博多運河城
第一晚，我們前往位於福岡市中心的博多運河城，這是一個規模龐大的娛樂購物中心。它有「城中之城」的美譽，有引人注目的人工運河和著名的音樂噴泉表演。這裡集購物、餐飲和電影於一體，熱鬧非凡，但真正吸引遊客的還是夜晚的燈光水舞秀。
我們注意到好幾家餐廳都在賣牛舌，於是隨意選了一家。當時我們並不知道牛舌的不同部位口感差異如此之大；我們點了好幾份一起分享，結果發現我們喜歡薄片的。之後我稍微查了一下，才發現牛舌通常分成四個部分：
- 舌尖: 較硬有嚼勁
- 舌中: 爽脆軟嫩，常做牛舌芯
- 舌根: 最肥美軟嫩多汁，最高級部位
- 舌下: 多筋，適合做肉碎或特殊料理
舌根和舌芯是日式燒烤（yakiniku）的靈魂。掌握了這些新知識，下次去日本我一定知道該點什麼了！
For our first evening, we headed to Canal City Hakata, a massive entertainment and shopping complex in the heart of Fukuoka. Known as a 'city within a city,' it features a striking artificial canal and a famous musical fountain show. It’s a vibrant hub where shopping, dining, and cinema meet, but the nighttime light and water displays are the real crowd-pleasers.
We noticed several restaurants specializing in gyutan (beef tongue) and decided to pick one at random. At the time, we were unaware that different cuts of the tongue offer such varied textures; we simply ordered several portions to share and realized we preferred the thin slices. After a bit of post-dinner research, I discovered that beef tongue is typically divided into four parts:
- The Tip: Firm and chewy.
- The Middle: Crisp and tender—perfect for the core.
- The Root: The most prized 'high-grade' cut—fatty, tender, and juicy.
- The Sublingual: Sinewy and best suited for mincing or slow-cooking.
The root and core are the stars of Japanese grilling (yakiniku). Armed with this new knowledge, I’ll definitely know exactly what to order on our next trip!
我們可以聊聊日本的洗手間嗎？日本的公共洗手間簡直是科技的奇蹟。我尤其對「一體式」洗手系統印象深刻，洗手液、洗手和烘乾功能都無縫整合在一個非接觸式的水槽上。大多數洗手間都配備了著名的 TOTO 智慧馬桶，以其加熱座圈和先進的噴淋功能而聞名。有些型號甚至還配備了「智慧型」功能，例如自動沖水和「音姬」（Otohime）技術——播放流水聲以保護隱私。這種衛生和便利程度，真正體現了日本的獨特之處。
Can we talk about Japanese bathrooms for a second? The public restrooms in Japan are a marvel of technology. I was incredibly impressed by the 'all-in-one' sink systems, where soap dispensing, washing, and hand-drying are all seamlessly integrated into a single touchless station. Most facilities feature the famous TOTO washlets, known for their heated seats and advanced spray functions. Some models are even equipped with 'smart' features, such as automatic flushing and 'Otohime' (Sound Princess) technology—which plays the sound of rushing water for privacy. It is a level of hygiene and convenience that truly sets Japan apart.
Nakasu Yatai 中洲屋台街
當夕陽西下，福岡中洲的河畔便呈現出一幅神奇的景象。名為「屋台」的小型移動木製小吃攤開始陸續展開，五彩繽紛的暖簾在晚風中飄動。雖然這些街頭小吃攤曾經在日本各地都很常見，但福岡是碩果僅存的幾個仍然保留著這種獨特文化的大城市之一，市內有超過 100 個屋台，其中沿中川一字排開的最為迷人。
走進屋台，彷彿進入了一個私密的小世界。每個攤位通常只容得下 8 到 10 人，營造出一種親密的、肩並肩的氛圍，當地人和遊客都喜歡在這裡圍坐在一起，享用熱氣騰騰的美食。空氣中瀰漫著博多豚骨拉麵、烤雞串和關東煮的誘人香氣。在這裡，重要的不僅是食物，更是一種體驗——啤酒杯碰撞的清脆聲、烤架滋滋作響的聲音，以及老闆熱情好客的待客之道。他通常獨自經營整個屋台。
對旅客來說，中洲屋台是感受福岡「努力工作，盡情玩樂」的絕佳去處。無論是想快速享用宵夜，還是深入體驗當地文化，在霓虹閃爍的中洲屋台，於木凳上度過一個夜晚，都是九州之旅不可錯過的體驗。
有幾點需要注意的屋台規矩:
- 用餐完畢，請盡快離開：由於空間有限，用餐完畢後儘快離開，以便其他人可以入座。不要在此逗留長聊。
- 每人一杯飲料：通常（而且往往是要求）團體中的每個人至少點一杯飲料和一份食物。
- 查看天氣：由於是露天攤位，許多屋台在大雨或大風天氣會關閉。
- 找找看菜單：現在很多攤位都有英文菜單和固定價格，方便國際遊客點餐。
屋台攤位前人頭攢動，熱鬧非凡，但人潮洶湧，每家攤位前都排起了長隊。我們沒有排隊，而是沿著河岸悠閒地散步，從一端走到另一端，欣賞沿途的風景。引發我們興趣的是窺視著那些小攤子，好奇地觀察著攤主們正在製作的各種特色美食，直到底才繼續前行。
As the sun sets over Fukuoka, the riverside in the Nakasu district undergoes a magical transformation. Small, mobile wooden food stalls known as Yatai begin to unfold, their colorful curtains (noren) fluttering in the evening breeze. While these street-food stalls were once common across Japan, Fukuoka is the last major city where this unique culture truly thrives, with over 100 stalls scattered throughout the city—the most picturesque being those lined up along the Naka River.
Stepping inside a Yatai is like entering a tiny, private world. Each stall typically seats only 8 to 10 people, creating an intimate, shoulder-to-shoulder atmosphere where locals and tourists alike bond over steaming bowls of food. The air is thick with the savory aroma of Hakata Tonkotsu Ramen, grilled Yakitori (skewers), and Oden (a comforting soy-braised dashi stew). It isn't just about the meal; it’s about the experience—the clinking of beer mugs, the sizzle of the grill, and the warm hospitality of the owner, who often manages the entire operation alone.
For travelers, the Nakasu Yatai are the ultimate spot to soak in Fukuoka’s "work hard, play hard" spirit. Whether you are looking for a quick late-night snack or a deep dive into local culture, a night spent on a wooden stool under the neon glow of Nakasu is an essential Kyushu experience.
There are a few Yatai Etiquette that need to be noted.
- Keep it moving: Because space is so limited, it is polite to finish your meal and move on so others can sit. It’s not a place to linger for hours.
- One drink per person: It is customary (and often required) for every person in the group to order at least one drink and one food item.
- Check the weather: Since they are outdoor stalls, many Yatai close during heavy rain or strong winds.
- Look for the menu: Many stalls now have English menus with set prices, making it much easier for international visitors to order.
The energy at the Yatai stalls was electric, but the sheer size of the crowds meant that every vendor had a long queue. Instead of joining the wait, we took a slow stroll from one end of the riverfront to the other, soaking in the sights. It was fascinating to peek into the tiny wooden stalls and curiously observe the different specialties being prepared before we eventually moved on.
之後我在路旁偶然看到了兩台有趣的自動販賣機——這真是日本「自動販賣機文化」的完美例證。其中一台擺滿了各種冷凍鹹味食品，從雞腿、餃子到味噌湯，應有盡有。緊鄰它的是另一台，專門販售冷凍甜點。真是不可思議，無論何時，你都能在街角找到美味的小吃或一頓正餐！
Later I stumbled upon two fascinating vending machines by the roadside—a perfect example of Japan’s 'vending machine culture.' One was stocked with a variety of frozen savory meals, ranging from chicken drumsticks and dumplings to hot miso soup. Right next to it stood another machine dedicated entirely to frozen desserts. It’s incredible how you can find a gourmet snack or a full meal on a street corner at any hour!
走著走著，竟然走回到博多站，車站燈火輝煌，在夜空的映襯下顯得格外壯麗。查看我的運動數據，今天我走了大約 5.9 英里 (14,652 步)。雖然旅程漫長，而且在海關也遇到了一些小麻煩，但這仍然是充實的一天。
My evening walk eventually brought me back to Hakata Station, which was brilliantly lit and looked magnificent against the night sky. Looking back at my fitness data, I realized I had walked 5.9 miles (14,652 steps) today. Despite the long journey and the initial struggles at customs, it was a deeply rewarding and fulfilling day.
🚆 Stay tuned for more of our Kyushu, Japan adventures!
World Through My Eyes (Photographs) Posts/我鏡頭裏的世(視)界帖子
Travel/Point of Interest Posts 旅遊景點帖子
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