我們在熊本城景觀舒適飯店住了四晚，事實證明這是個非常明智的決定。雖然飯店的位置對我們搭乘 JR 一日遊來說有點不方便——尤其是在早高峰時段，計程車爆滿，很難叫到車——但有個固定的「大本營」絕對是值得的。我們得以把沉重的行李留在飯店，只背著小背包出行。這樣一來，搭乘 JR 列車就輕鬆多了，不用再為拖著大件行李箱在車站裡穿梭而煩惱。
每天早晨，我們都無比期待飯店豐盛的早餐。早餐種類繁多，令人印象深刻，不僅有各種精緻的傳統日式小菜，還有一份濃鬱美味的咖哩飯，讓我們增强精神及體力。步行前往電車站也是一大亮點；車站正對面就是熊本城，我們可以欣賞環繞城堡的絢麗杜鵑花和其他春花。觀察當地人的生活節奏也別有一番樂趣——居民和學生騎自行車或搭乘電車去上班或上學。
We spent four nights at the &and COMFY HOTEL Kumamotojo View, which turned out to be a great decision. Even though its location was a bit of a challenge for our JR day trips—especially in the morning when taxis were fully booked and the morning rush was in full swing—having a consistent 'home base' was worth it. We left our heavy luggage behind, traveling with just our day packs. This made hopping on the trains so much more enjoyable, unburdened by the struggle of navigating stations with large suitcases.
Each morning, we looked forward to the hotel's incredible breakfast. The spread was impressive, featuring a wide array of small traditional Japanese dishes and a rich, delicious curry with rice that gave us the perfect energy boost. Our walk to the tram station was a highlight; being directly across from Kumamoto Castle, we could admire the vibrant Azaleas and spring flowers that surround the fortress. It was also fun to observe the local rhythm—residents and students cycling or boarding the tram to work or to school.
到達熊本站時，我們發現這裡充滿了獨特的魅力。這裡簡直就是熊本熊的王國！熊本熊是熊本市著名的吉祥物－一隻黑色的熊寶寶！車站裡有一家超大的熊本熊專賣店。連電扶梯也裝飾得趣味十足，到處都是可愛的卡通人物。
When we reached Kumamoto Station, we found it bursting with character. It is truly the kingdom of Kumamon, the city's famous black bear mascot! There is a massive store dedicated to all things Kumamon, and even the station escalators are full of personality, decorated with fun cartoon characters.
我們原本打算搭乘充滿奇趣的「阿蘇男孩號」列車前往阿蘇山。然而，由於班次有限且發車較晚，我們決定改搭乘九州橫斷特急列車。這樣一來，我們就能更早開啟九州火山腹地的探險之旅。
當九州橫斷特急列車開始向阿蘇火山口爬升時，我們體驗到了日本鐵路旅行中最獨特的工程奇蹟之一：立野站折返線。由於山坡坡度太陡峭，普通列車無法爬升，列車必須巧妙地採用之字形線路才能提升高度。
我們感覺列車在半山腰的一處岩架上完全停了下來。列車員配合默契地從車廂一端走到另一端，列車開始「倒退」著駛上下一段軌道。這是日本僅存的幾個「三段式」折返線之一，列車只需幾分鐘就能爬升近 190 公尺。這很有意思的古老工程技術，讓這段旅程彷彿經歷了一次真正的登山探險。
從我們攀登途中的有利位置，我們也清楚地看到了新阿蘇大橋。這座橫跨壯麗的黑川深谷的宏偉橋樑，象徵著該地區的堅韌，因為它在 2016 年地震後被徹底重建。看到我們剛才走過的鐵軌在腳下延伸，與巍峨的山脈和現代感十足的大橋交相輝映，無疑是這次火車之旅的一大亮點。
For our trip to Mount Aso, we originally planned to take the whimsical Aso Boy! train. However, with its limited schedule and later departure, we decided to take the Kyushu Odan Tokkyu (the Trans-Kyushu Limited Express) instead. It allowed us to get an earlier start on our adventure into the volcanic heart of Kyushu.
As the Kyushu Odan Tokkyu began its ascent toward the Aso caldera, we experienced one of the most unique engineering marvels of Japanese rail travel: the Tateno Switchback. Because the mountain incline is too steep for a standard climb, the train has to perform a clever zigzag maneuver to gain elevation.
We felt the train come to a complete stop on a ledge halfway up the mountain. In a coordinated dance, the conductor walked from one end of the train to the other, and we began moving 'backward' up the next section of track. This is one of the few remaining 'three-stage' switchbacks in Japan, allowing the train to climb nearly 190 meters in just a few minutes. It was a fascinating moment of old-school engineering that made the journey feel like a true mountain expedition.
From our vantage point during the climb, we also caught a clear view of the Shin-Aso Ohashi Bridge. Spanning the deep Kurokawa spectacular gorge, this massive structure is a symbol of the region's strength, as it was completely rebuilt after the 2016 earthquake. Seeing the tracks we had just traveled on far below us, contrasted with the modern silhouette of the bridge against the mountains, was a highlight of the ride.
下了火車，我們立刻感受到了阿蘇車站清新的山間空氣。在前往火山之前，我們駐足欣賞了烏索普雕像——這座來自《海賊王》的英雄銅像象徵著該地區的復甦。在車站內，我們也瞥見了小黑的迷你站長室，這足以證明日本人對可愛吉祥物的熱愛。
我對烏索普並不熟悉。很好奇他是個什麼樣的人物。原來在《海賊王》中，烏索普的名字意為「謊言」或「虛假」，源自日語單字“うそ”（uso），反映了他最初臭名昭著的說謊者和誇大其詞的性格，同時也引用了以寓言故事聞名的伊索寓言。這個來自西拉布村的膽小騙子，夢想成為一個勇敢的海賊，他的夢想源自於他的海賊父親耶穌布。他加入草帽海賊團擔任狙擊手，克服了內心的不安全感，成為一名勇敢的戰士，憑藉其卓越的射擊技巧和戰術能力，最終從一個自私的騙子成長為一名無私、忠誠的船員，實現了他成為「勇敢的海上戰士」的夢想。
我們前往售票處購買了阿蘇火山口線的巴士票。拿到車票後，我們準備離開車站，往上前往活火山口，途中會經過火山口廣闊的綠色草甸，最後到達山頂。
還沒到達著名的草千里，沿途的景色就已經十分壯觀。巴士沿著較低的山坡緩緩爬升，我望向窗外，看到阿蘇赤牛在陡峭的山坡上悠閒地吃草。
與聚集在高處平坦草原上的馬群不同，這些健壯的牛群散佈在山坡上，完美地適應了這片崎嶇的地形。它們在那裡悠然自得地生活，絲毫不受上方巍峨火山峰的干擾，這景象更凸顯了阿蘇山壯麗景色的恢弘氣勢。在我們抵達山頂更荒涼的火山地帶之前，這片田園牧歌般的景色為我們開啟了一段美好的山間之旅。
Stepping off the train at Aso Station, we felt the crisp mountain air immediately. Before heading to the volcano, we took a moment to admire the Usoppu statue—a heroic bronze figure from the One Piece series that stands as a symbol of the region's recovery. Inside the station, we also caught a glimpse of Kuro-chan’s miniature stationmaster room, a testament to Japan's love for cute mascots.
I'm not familiar with Usopp. I'm curious about what kind of person he is. Apparently, in One Piece, Usopp's name means "lie" or "falsehood," derived from the Japanese word "uso," reflecting his initially notorious reputation as a liar and exaggerator, and also referencing Aesop's fables. This cowardly liar from Syrup Village dreams of becoming a brave pirate, a dream inspired by his pirate father, Yasopp. He joins the Straw Hat Pirates as a sniper, overcoming his inner insecurities to become a brave warrior. Through his exceptional marksmanship and tactical abilities, he ultimately transforms from a selfish liar into a selfless and loyal crew member, realizing his dream of becoming a "brave warrior of the sea."
We made our way to the ticket counter to purchase our bus passes for the Aso Crater Line. With tickets in hand, we were ready to leave the station behind and head upward toward the active crater, passing through the vast, green meadows of the caldera on our way to the summit.
Even before we reached the famous Kusasenri plateau, the views were spectacular. As the bus climbed the lower slopes, I looked out the window and saw Aso Akaushi (Red Beef) cattle grazing on the steep mountain grass.
Unlike the horses that gather at the flat prairies higher up, these sturdy cows were scattered across the hillsides, perfectly at home on the rugged terrain. Seeing them there, undisturbed by the massive volcanic peaks towering above them, really highlighted the scale of the Aso landscape. It was a beautiful, pastoral introduction to the mountain before we reached the more desolate, volcanic terrain at the summit.
Aso-zan Hon-do Sai-gan-den-ji Oku-no-in 阿蘇山本堂西巌殿寺奥之院
當我們抵達阿蘇山上總站時，一個令人警醒的現實擺在我們面前：火山的噴發警戒等級已達二級。這意味著由於火山震顫和氣體噴發加劇，火山口周圍的區域已被嚴格禁止進入。我們無法走到火山口邊緣欣賞碧綠的池水，但某種程度上，這反而讓這段經歷顯得更加原始而震撼。
由於二級警戒，我們改變了行程計劃，前往阿蘇山本堂西巌殿寺奥之院。這座佛教內殿屹立於山中已有 1300 多年的歷史，是阿蘇地區天台宗的重要修行地。它由著名僧侶最榮創建於 726 年開創，旨在火山的庇佑下祈求慈悲和健康。
When we reached the Aso-sanjo terminal, we were met with a sobering reality: the volcano was at Eruption Alert Level 2. This meant that due to increased volcanic tremors and gas, the immediate area around the crater was strictly off-limits. We couldn't walk up to the rim to see the turquoise pool, but in many ways, this made the experience feel even more raw and powerful.
Because of the Level 2 alert, we shifted our plans and visited Aso-san Hondo Seigan-denji Oku-no-in. This Buddhist inner sanctuary has stood on the mountain for over 1,300 years. It was founded by the famous monk Saicho as a place to pray for mercy and health under the shadow of the volcano.
Kusasenri-ga-hama Grassland 草千里
之後，我們回去草千里。我們放慢腳步，漫步在這片廣袤無垠、翠綠如翡翠的草原上。一邊是靜謐的草原，另一邊是冒著煙的火山峰，兩者的對比令人驚嘆。就在這裡，我們注意到了一種當地特產：馬肉。我們決定冒險一試，買了一串烤馬肉串。雖然具體的味道已經記不太清了，但在火山口中心品嚐這種獨特的當地美食的經歷，我永遠不會忘記。
Afterward, we headed back down to the Kusasenri-ga-hama Grassland. We took our time walking through the vast, emerald-green plains. The contrast was stunning—the deep silence of the prairie on one side and the smoking volcanic peaks on the other. It was here that we noticed a local specialty for sale: Basashi (horse meat). We decided to be adventurous and bought a grilled stick to try. While the exact flavor has faded from memory, the experience of trying such a unique local delicacy in the heart of the caldera is something I won't soon forget.
午餐後，我們返回草千里濱，徒步探索這片草原。漫步在廣闊的草原上，感覺無比寧靜。我們偶然發現了一個大型靜謐的池塘——這是古代火山口的遺跡之一——數十隻野鴨，很可能是斑嘴鴨或綠翅鴨，正在池塘里悠然游水。池水宛如一面鏡子，倒映著九州廣闊的天空。
在附近，我們看到了著名的阿蘇馬，它們排成一排供遊客騎乘。即使不騎，看到它們在冒煙的中岳火山口前悠閒地吃草，也是一幅令人難忘的景象。這是一次輕鬆寧靜的健行；一邊是鴨子和馬兒平靜的生活，另一邊是火山不斷升騰的白色煙霧。感覺就像漫步在一片既古老又充滿活力的土地上。
After lunch, we returned to Kusasenrigahama to explore the prairie on foot. Walking across the vast grassland was incredibly peaceful. We came across one of the large, still ponds—one of the remnants of an ancient crater—where dozens of wild ducks, likely Spot-billed Ducks or Teals, were swimming quietly. The water acted like a mirror, reflecting the big Kyushu sky.
Nearby, we saw the famous Aso horses lined up for tourists to ride. Even if we don't ride them, seeing them grazing against the backdrop of the smoking Nakadake Crater is a sight I’ll never forget. It was such a gentle, quiet hike; on one side, you have the calm life of the ducks and horses, and on the other, you see the constant plume of white smoke rising from the volcano. It really felt like we were walking through a landscape that was both ancient and very much alive.
由於我們無法到達火山口邊緣，便在阿蘇火山博物館待了一會兒。事實證明，這真是了解一公里外火山狀況的絕佳途徑。二樓有一塊大螢幕，播放安裝在阿蘇中岳火山口壁上的攝影機的即時畫面。雖然我們身處安全溫暖的室內，但聽到火山的轟鳴聲，看到噴射孔噴出的氣體，仍然感覺身臨其境
博物館裡還有一個 170 度的環形劇場，展示了阿蘇火山爆發的歷史，以及九州人民數千年來如何與這座巨山和諧共處。在返回車站之前，這無疑是結束我們山地探險之旅的完美方式。
Since we couldn't reach the crater rim, we spent some time at the Aso Volcano Museum. It turned out to be a great way to understand what was happening just a kilometer away. On the second floor, they have a large screen showing live camera feeds from cameras mounted directly on the walls of the Nakadake Crater. Even though we were standing in a safe, warm building, hearing the roar of the volcano and seeing the live video of the gas billowing from the vent made the experience feel very real.
The museum also featured a 170-degree theater that showed the history of the Aso eruptions and how the people of Kyushu have lived alongside this giant for thousands of years. It was the perfect way to finish our mountain adventure before heading back down to the station.
是時候返回火車站了。當巴士蜿蜒下山時，我們迎來了最後一個驚喜：成片美麗的白色櫻花。在崎嶇山巒的映襯下，潔白的花瓣嬌嫩欲滴，為這充滿火焰、心靈靈魂與自然的一天畫上了完美的句點。
It’s time to head back to the train station. As our bus wound its way back down the hill, we were treated to one last surprise: groves of beautiful white cherry blossoms. Against the rugged mountain backdrop, the delicate white petals were a stunning farewell to a day of fire, spirit, and nature.
穿過盛開的白櫻花，搭火車返回市區後，我們以一道經典的日式美食——鰻魚飯——結束了這一天。我們找到一家當地餐館，正好趕上週年慶，鰻魚飯有特價優惠。
時機真是再好不過了。炭烤鰻魚的香味，配上熱氣騰騰的米飯和甜鹹適口的照燒醬，讓人感到無比舒心。食物美味可口，而且價格實惠，能享用如此高品質的佳餚，更讓這個夜晚顯得格外特別。
After our descent through the white cherry blossoms and the train ride back to the city, we ended our day with a classic Japanese treat: Unagi (eel). We found a local restaurant that happened to be holding an anniversary celebration, offering a special discount on their eel rice bowls.
The timing couldn't have been better. There is something so comforting about the smell of charcoal-grilled eel and the sweet, savory tare sauce over a steaming bowl of rice. The food was delicious, and being able to enjoy such a high-quality meal at a celebratory price made the evening even more special.
享用完美味的鰻魚晚餐後，我們花了一些時間在附近的商場裡逛逛。熊本的室內購物街自成一格，燈火通明，遍布當地特色精品店，熱鬧的夜景令人流連忘返。
After our satisfying eel dinner, we spent some time window shopping through the nearby malls. Kumamoto’s covered shopping arcades are a world of their own, filled with bright lights, local boutiques, and a lively evening atmosphere that was fun to soak in.
回到飯店後，我們徑直前往頂樓，想再欣賞一次美景。夜幕下的熊本城令人嘆為觀止。金色的燈光灑滿整座城堡，在漆黑的夜空中傲然挺立，靜謐而美麗。眺望著燈火璀璨的城市，以這座歷史悠久的城堡為中心，那一刻彷彿置身於夢境之中。這與我們在火山上忙碌的一天形成了完美的寧靜對比，也成為了我們永遠珍藏的熊本回憶。
看看我的健身追蹤器，我今天走了 4.34 英里——超過 10,337 步！
When we finally returned to our hotel, we headed straight to the top floor for one last view. Seeing Kumamoto Castle at night was breathtaking. The fortress was bathed in golden floodlights, standing proud and silent against the dark sky. Looking out over the city lights with the historic castle as the centerpiece was a moment of pure magic. It was the perfect, quiet contrast to the busy day we had on the volcano, and a memory of Kumamoto we will keep forever.
Looking at my fitness trackers, I had clocked 4.34 miles—over 10,337 steps today!
🚆 Stay tuned for more of our Kyushu, Japan adventures!
World Through My Eyes (Photographs) Posts/我鏡頭裏的世(視)界帖子
Travel/Point of Interest Posts 旅遊景點帖子
Comments