Travel/POI: Taiwan Yilan Plum Blossom Lake, Taipingshan 宜蘭梅花湖, 太平山

2025 年四月，我們五對夫婦，兵分三路，各自從台北出發，結伴一起去宜蘭玩。我們這一組五人先出發，沿路停幾站，之後在民宿與其他人會合，一起出遊。

In April 2025, we joined a trip to Yilan with four other couples, divided into three groups. Our group left Taipei first, made a few stops along the way, and later met up with the others at a AirBnB so we could continue the journey together.

伯朗咖啡館-頭城城堡咖啡一館
Mr. Brown Cafe- Toucheng Castle Cafe 1

宜蘭縣頭城鎮外澳里8鄰石空路95號
No. 95號, Shikong Rd, Toucheng, Yilan

伯朗咖啡是金車公司旗下的罐裝即飲咖啡品牌，在 1982 年創立。金車咖啡研究室從中南美洲與東南亞莊園採購生豆，在台灣自行烘焙，是台灣罐裝咖啡市佔率的前ㄧ、二名。我們去參觀在宜蘭位於半山腰的城堡咖啡一館，在這裏除了可以享用咖啡、甜點外，也可眺望龜山島、烏石港及外澳沙灘海景，是個紓壓的好地方。

Mr. Brown Coffee is a canned, ready-to-drink coffee brand under King Car Group, founded in 1982. King Car Coffee Lab sources coffee beans from farms in Central and South America, as well as Southeast Asia, and roasts them in-house in Taiwan. It holds one of the top two market shares in Taiwan’s canned coffee market. We visited Mr. Brown Coffee Toucheng I, located midway up a mountain in Yilan. In addition to enjoying coffee and desserts, we can take in panoramic views of Guishan Island, Wushi Harbor, and Waiao Beach—a perfect place to unwind.

Flashback 回顧 2015.03.03

梅花湖 Plum Blossom Lake

宜蘭縣冬山鄉大埤路1號
No. 1, Dapi Road, Dongshan, Yilan

梅花湖，三面環山，面積約二十公頃，舊名「大埤」或「鑑湖」，1964年，因其湖形如五瓣梅花，前總統蔣經國更名為梅花湖。不論是環湖騎腳踏車、騎協力車、散步或乘船遊湖，都各有各的情趣。我們四月 16 日來探路，停了一會兒，17 日又回來騎協力車繞湖遊玩。

Plum Blossom Lake, surrounded by mountains on three sides and covering approximately 20 hectares, was formerly known as "Da Pi" or "Jian Lake." In 1964, former President Chiang Ching-kuo renamed it Plum Blossom Lake because its shape resembles a five-petal plum blossom. Whether you're cycling, scooting, strolling, or taking a boat tour around the lake, each activity offers its own unique appeal. We came to explore the area on April 16th and returned on the 17th to ride tandem bikes around the lake.

我們專心的在看什麼？水怪？當時實在看不出是什麼名堂
What are we looking at so intently? A lake monster? We really couldn't tell what it was at the time.

原來它是--青魚，別稱鯇魚、青鯇、烏青、螺螄青、黑鯇、烏鯇、黑鯖、烏鯖、銅青、青棒、五侯青、烏鰡或鰡仔
Then I found out this is a Black carp/Chinese black roach (Mylopharyngodon piceus)

派對蜜民宿 Party Me

宜蘭縣冬山鄉境安二路61號
No. 61, Jingan 2nd Rd, Dongshan, Yilan

我們這次人多，特別來享受一下豪華版的民宿。這間民宿共有 6 種房型（4 間雙人房和 2 間四人房），最多可容納 16 人，每一間的主題風格都不一樣，所有房型都有乾濕分離的衛浴設備，也各有露台及休憩桌椅。室外還有全年開放的摩洛哥風戲水池。可訂單間，也可包棟。包棟方案有一泊二食跟一泊三食方案(下午茶＋早餐或＋晚餐)。當我們三點入住，管家就已經準備好精美的點心及下午茶來迎賓。客房內又備有泡麵、氣泡水、礦泉水、茶包、餅乾點心，非常貼心。餐廳／交誼廳也有電動麻將桌跟行動 KTV，娛樂活動也有著落。住這間民宿，給了我很特別及難忘的體驗。

Since we were traveling with a large group, we decided to enjoy the luxurious B&B experience. This B&B offers six room types (four doubles and two quads), accommodating up to 16 people. Each room has a unique theme, and all rooms feature en-suite bathrooms with separate wet and dry areas, as well as a terrace with seating and tables. There's also a year-round Moroccan-style splash pool. Rooms can be reserved individually, or the entire building can be rented out. The stay includes one night with two meals and one night with three meals (afternoon tea, plus breakfast and/or dinner). When we checked in at 3:00 PM, the housekeeper had already prepared delicious snacks and afternoon tea for us. Instant noodles, sparkling water, mineral water, tea bags, and cookies were also provided in the rooms — a truly thoughtful touch. The dining room/lounge is equipped with an electric mahjong table and a mobile karaoke bar, ensuring plenty of entertainment. Staying at this B&B was a truly unique and unforgettable experience.

* Note: If the video below on YouTube is blurry or of poor quality, you can change the quality to 1080p in the settings.
* 如果以下的油管影片模糊或畫質不佳，可在設置上更改畫質，改成 1080p。

太平山國家森林遊樂區
Taipingshan National Forest Recreation Area

宜蘭縣大同鄉太平村太平巷58之1號
No. 58-1, Taiping Lane, Datong, Yilan

海拔 2,000 公尺的太平山，屬中央山脈的北端，泰雅族昔稱「眠腦」，乃森林蓊鬱的意思。以盛產紅檜、扁柏聞名。自 1915 年起，日治時期開始在這裡發展伐木事業。1921年，日本人以土場做為起點，興建運材鐵道以取代原來溪運的方式，現今著名的蹦蹦車便是來自改建的森林鐵道茂興線。1925年日本人還首度使用架空的鋼索運輸木材。第二次世界大戰後太平山林區由國民政府接管，這時期至 1960 年之前，太平山林場與阿里山林場、八仙山林場並列為臺灣三大林場。1982年，林場事業結束後，開始轉型發展森林遊樂事業。在這個占地廣達一萬兩千餘頃的太平山國國家森林遊樂區，除了可以漫步在森林步道上，溫泉、雲海、雪景、湖泊等也都是美麗的景觀，四季風貌也皆有所不同。

Taipingshan, at an altitude of 2,000 meters, the northern end of the Central Mountain Range, was once called Mian Nao by the Atayal people, meaning “dense forest.” It is famous for its abundant production of Taiwan Red Cypress and Formosan Hinoki. Logging operations began here in 1915 under Japanese rule. In 1921, the Japanese used Tuchang as a base and built a timber railway to replace the original river transport system. The now-famous Bong-Bong Train runs on the rebuilt Maoxing Line of the forest railway. In 1925, the Japanese also pioneered the use of an aerial ropeway to transport timber. After World War II, the Taipingshan forest area was taken over by the National Government. From that time until 1960, the Taipingshan Forest Farm was ranked among Taiwan’s three largest forest farms, alongside the Alishan and Basianshan Forest Farms. In 1982, logging operations were discontinued, and the area began to focus on forest recreation. Today, the Taipingshan National Forest Recreation Area covers over 12,000 hectares and offers not only forest trails but also abundant scenic attractions such as hot springs, seas of clouds, snowscapes, and lakes — with each season displaying its own unique landscapes.

紫葉槭紅葉道 Purple Maple Path

我稱這條佈滿紫葉槭，位於太平山莊的中央階梯為紫葉槭紅葉道。每年 4-10 月都會呈現紫紅色楓葉美景，紫葉槭的葉子與楓葉相似，只是掌狀 5 裂的葉子，有較多鋸齒葉緣。沿著這條紫葉槭道緩緩而上，有如置身於仙境。

I call this central stairway, lined with purple maple trees at Taiping Villa, the Purple Maple Path. From April to October, the foliage presents a stunning display of purple-red leaves. These purple maple leaves resemble typical maple leaves, but they are palmately five-lobed with more serrated edges. Slowly ascending the Purple Maple Path feels like stepping into a fairyland.

雲海咖啡館 Yunhai Cafe

公廁 Public Restroom, LOL!

蹦蹦車 Bong-Bong Train

蹦蹦車為昔日用於載運原木的山地運材軌道車。太平山運材軌道共鋪設 16 線，總長達一百多公里，其中茂興線是太平山山地軌道橋樑最多、最具運材軌道代表性的路段，經整修後，1991年以蹦蹦車為名，正式對外營運這條 3 公里的觀光路線。我們去的時候，蹦蹦車沿線有數處遭颱風之災，仍在修復整理中，所以我們乘坐局部復駛僅 1 公里的蹦蹦車行程。聽說「蹦蹦車」名字的由來有兩個說法，一說是過去運材軌道，軌條是分段拼接而成，由於路基不平整，火車行經軌條的接縫處，發出蹦蹦聲，因而得名；另一說是柴油機關車的煙囪冒煙，其煙蓋上下合閉，發出蹦蹦聲。無論如何，在這一小段的行程裏，我們不只體驗了一下「蹦蹦」的滋味，也欣賞到沿途美麗的林木，以及高山和藏匿在山間的太平山莊風景。

A "Bong-Bong Train" is a mountain timber railcar used to transport logs. The Taipingshan timber track comprises 16 lines, totaling over 100 kilometers. The Maoxing Line, which features the most bridges, is considered the most iconic section of the track. After renovations, a 3-kilometer scenic route was officially opened to the public in 1991 under the name "Bong-Bong Train." During our visit, several sections of the route had been damaged by typhoons and were still undergoing repairs, so we took a partial ride of about 1 kilometer. There are two theories about the origin of the name "Bong-Bong Train." One suggests that the rails of the timber track were spliced together in sections, and due to the uneven roadbed, the train made a "bong-bong" sound as it passed over the joints. The other theory attributes the sound to the chimney of the diesel locomotive, where the flap would lift and close, producing the characteristic "bong-bong" noise. In any case, during this short trip, we not only experienced the unique "bong-bong" sound, but also enjoyed the beautiful forests, mountainous landscapes, and the scenery of Taiping Villa nestled in the hills.

松羅亭 Songluo Pavilion

這裏以前是 1937 年太平山派出所的舊址，以開闊的草皮及卵石庭園空間呈現庭園遺址，涼亭及廢棄舊蹦蹦車廂作為休憩使用。

This was formerly the site of the Taipingshan Police Station in 1937. The site features a spacious lawn and pebble garden space, with a pavilion and an abandoned old bong-bong train used for rest.

原始森林公園 Cypress Forest Park

坐了蹦蹦車後, 繼續依著中央階梯向上爬。原本看到層層階梯，令人有點怯步不前，其實慢慢走，連我這種肉腳都爬得上去。我們先經過由太平山員工宿舍整修後的扁柏小屋，這是園區內的住宿旅館太平山莊裏的其中一個館，聽說一屋難求，需即早預定。在半途左側有座 1937 年興建的「原太平山俱樂部」，造型典雅，2005 年轉型為「文史館」。繼續往上爬, 可看見「太平詩路」的木牌，下方有一塊「太平詩路記事」，是這詩路的簡要說明。在園區內的陶板上可找到李潼( 12 首)及黃智溶( 8 首)所寫的 20 首詩，這條詩路自 2004 年揭幕後，讓遊園者不僅能沐浴在森林的芬多精中，也能在欣賞這些詩時，感受其中的詩情畫意。從這兒往上看，就可看到中央階梯最高處的「鎮安宮」，它的前身是「加羅山神社」，1936 年遷到這裏並更名為「太平山神社」，奉祀天照大御神，設有鳥居。二戰後改名為鎮安宮，改奉國姓爺鄭成功，在 1987 年整修成今日的樣貌。2021年，它正式登錄為宜蘭縣歷史建築，是縣內海拔最高的廟宇。這裏也是檜木原始林步道的入口，步道蜿蜒在古木參天的原始紅檜及臺灣扁柏森林裡，全長 0.6 公里，平緩好走。

After the Bong-Bong Train ride, we continued our ascent up the central staircase. The sight of the numerous steps seemed daunting at first, but by taking our time, even a weakling like me could manage the climb. We first passed the Hinoki Cypress Cabin, a renovated former Taipingshan staff dormitory. It's one of the guesthouses within the park's Taipingshan Villa. I heard that rooms are hard to come by, so reservations are essential. Halfway up, on the left, stands the elegant Former Taipingshan Club, built in 1937. In 2005, it was transformed into the "Cultural and Historical Museum". Continuing upward, we saw a wooden sign reading "Taiping Poetry Path," with a brief description below titled Taiping Poetry Path Notes. Twenty poems by Li Tong (12 poems) and Hwang Ji-yong (8 poems) are featured on ceramic plaques throughout the park. Since its opening in 2004, this poetry path has allowed visitors not only to bask in the forest’s phytoncides but also to experience the poetic beauty of these verses. Looking up from here, you can see Zhen’an Temple at the top of the central staircase. Formerly the Garosan Shrine, it was relocated here in 1936 and renamed Taipingshan Shrine, enshrining Amaterasu Omikami and featuring a torii gate. After World War II, it was renamed Zhen’an Temple and dedicated to Chénggōng Koxinga. It was renovated to its current appearance in 1987. In 2021, it was officially registered as a historical building in Yilan County and is now the highest temple in the county. This spot also marks the entrance to the Cypress Forest Trail, which winds through a forest of towering Taiwan red cypress and Formosan Hinoki. The trail is a gentle, easy 0.6-kilometer walk.

鳩之澤溫泉 Jiuzhize Hot Spring

鳩之澤，舊名燒水，即地熱溫泉之意。日治時代是伐木工人的溫泉浴室。日本人稱之為「鳩澤溫泉」，1969 年更名為「仁澤溫泉」，2006 年回復「鳩之澤」原名。其泉源源自於 2,200 公尺深處的地熱，泉溫約攝氏 140 度。泉質清澈，無色無臭，屬弱鹼性碳酸氫鈉混和泉，有「美人湯」之譽。本區也設有二座煮蛋槽，終年冒出滾熱溫泉，供遊客煮蛋、玉蜀黍及其它食物。

Jiuzhize, formerly known as Shaoshui, means geothermal hot spring. During the Japanese colonial era, it served as a hot spring bathhouse for lumberjacks. Known by the Japanese as "Asahizawa," it was renamed "Renze Hot Spring" in 1969 and restored to its original name, "Hatonozawa," in 2006. The spring originates from geothermal sources at a depth of 2,200 meters, with water reaching temperatures of approximately 140 degrees Celsius. The water is clear, colorless, and odorless, and is a weakly alkaline sodium bicarbonate solution—earning it the nickname "Beauty Hot Spring." The area also features two egg-boiling pools, which provide year-round boiling water for visitors to cook eggs, corns and other food in the hot spring.

鳩之澤自然步道 Jiuzhize Nature Trail

鳩之澤自然步道全長 1.2 公里，海拔約 520 公尺，溫和的氣候、充沛的雨量以及河谷地形，孕育出豐富多樣的生態，是一條可供生態觀察的林間步道。

The Jiuzhize Nature Trail is 1.2 kilometers long and located at an elevation of approximately 520 meters above sea level. Its mild climate, abundant rainfall, and river valley topography have fostered a rich and diverse ecosystem, making it an ideal forest trail for ecological observation.