為協助 2024 年 4 月 3 日花東大地震後旅宿業的重建及營運，交通部觀光署、花蓮縣政府、台東縣政府、農業部、文化部...等推出許多旅遊協助方案。我們也藉機在 2005 年四月去花蓮玩。這次參加了兩個半天的旅程 –瓦拉米步道及赤科山。每人只需付兩個半天的旅遊費，每天台幣 $89，再加給導遊每天台幣 $100 的小費，當地的交通都全包了，我們只需要另外自己負責從台北去花蓮的車程，以即在花蓮的住宿。所以與好友一起報名同遊。4 月 27 日，我們一早從台北坐火車去花蓮的玉里。一路風景優美。到站後，在火車站附近的民宿放下行李，吃了中飯，又回到火車站集合，開始下午的行程。
To support the reconstruction and revitalization of the hospitality industry following the April 3, 2024, Hualien-Taitung earthquake, the Tourism Administration of the Ministry of Transportation and Communications, along with the Hualien County Government, Taitung County Government, Ministry of Agriculture, Ministry of Culture, and other agencies, launched a series of tourism assistance programs. We took this opportunity to visit Hualien in April 2025. During our trip, we participated in two half-day tours: the Walami Trail and Chihke Mountain. Each person paid a fee of $2.93 USD per day, plus a guide tip of $3.29 USD per day. Local transportation was included, but we were responsible for our own transportation from Taipei to Hualien and for our accommodations in Hualien. So we signed up for the tours with friends. On April 27th, we took a train from Taipei to Yuli, Hualien, early in the morning. The scenery along the way was beautiful. After arriving at Yuli Train Station, we dropped off our luggage at a nearby homestay, had lunch, and then returned to the station to gather and begin our afternoon itinerary.
瓦拉米步道 Walami Trail
瓦拉米步道位於玉山國家公園範圍內，距玉里市區約 10 多分鐘車程。這步道是日治時代興建的八通關越嶺道的一部份。1915 年卓溪山區爆發一事件，使得多名日警殉職。日本人為了要聯絡東西部交通外，更著眼於加強對深山原住民的統治與「教化」，並進行林野自然資源的開發，因此規劃興建八通關越嶺道，橫越中央山脈。1921 年全線貫通，西起南投縣信義鄉，東至花蓮縣玉里鎮，全長約 124.6 公里，其中東段的南安至瓦拉米（蕨駐在所）距離 13.6 公里，即是現今所稱「瓦拉米步道」。
瓦拉米（Walami）在布農族原意指「一起去做某件事」，像是一起去打獵、一起喝酒，其發音與日語的「蕨」相似，加上附近蕨類種類豐富，因此日人在此興建駐在所後，便命名為「蕨駐在所」。步道沿途另有數處均是當年日警駐紮的駐在所，曾多達 40 幾處，但如今只留下腹地遺址供人憑弔。步道沿著拉庫拉庫溪而上，跨越溪谷上方的吊橋多達 5 座，是瓦拉米步道的特色之一。
我們到山風二號橋之後，又走了一小段，便回頭。我們的嚮導，風趣幽默，知識常識豐富，不僅一路介紹步道的歷史，也教我們認識一些生態植物。另外最讓我驚訝及佩服的是一個眼障人，隨著家人的帶領，能跟著大家一起走高低不平的步道，一點都不因他身體的障礙而退縮。
The Walami Trail is located within Yushan National Park, about a 10-minute drive from downtown Yuli. This trail is part of the Batongguan Historic Trail, which was built during the Japanese colonial era. In 1915, an incident in the Juoshi Mountains resulted in the deaths of several Japanese police officers. Concerned about connecting the east and west of Taiwan, the Japanese government also focused on strengthening its rule and “educating” the indigenous people in the deep mountains, as well as developing the natural resources of the forests. As a result, the Japanese planned the construction of the Batongguan Traversing Trail, which crosses the Central Mountain Range. The entire trail was completed in 1921. Stretching approximately 124.6 kilometers from Xinyi Township in Nantou County in the west to Yuli Township in Hualien County in the east, the trail spans the island’s mountainous interior. The eastern section, from Nan'an to Walami (site of the former Warami Police Substation), is 13.6 kilometers long and is now known as the Walami Trail.
“Walami,” originally meaning "to do something together" in the Bunun language—such as going hunting or drinking together—is pronounced similarly to the Japanese word warami. Due to the abundance of ferns in the area, the Japanese named the station the Warami Police Substation after its establishment. Along the trail, there were once as many as 40 Japanese police stations, though only ruins remain today. The trail ascends along the Lakulaku River, crossing the valley via five suspension bridges—one of the hallmarks of the Walami Trail.
After reaching the Shanfeng No. 2 Suspension Bridge, we walked a short distance before turning back. Our guide, humorous and knowledgeable, not only explained the history of the trail but also introduced us to its flora. I was particularly impressed and deeply moved by a visually impaired man who, guided by his family, bravely followed the others along the uneven trail—undeterred by his physical limitations.
南安遊客中心 Nan'an Visitor Center
玉山國家公園東部園區的南安遊客中心，1999 年成立。設有展示間、多媒體欣賞及解說諮詢服務。在此可以認識玉山國家公園動植物生態、布農族文化及台灣黑熊的保育研究成果。中心外有一片 30 餘公頃稻米種植區，俗稱玉山下的第一畝田。南安為 1 年 2 期稻作，因此每年可以看到 2 次遼闊壯麗的金黃色稻浪(時間大約在每年 6~7 月以及 10~11 月)。在此也可看到ㄧ座八通關開鑿紀念碑，記載八通關越道路起工、竣工日期，里程、經費、人工、死傷人數。
The Nan'an Visitor Center, located in the eastern section of Yushan National Park, opened in 1999. It features exhibition rooms, multimedia displays, and interpretive information services. Here, visitors can learn about the flora and fauna of Yushan National Park, Bunun culture, and the results of conservation research on the Formosan black bear. Outside the center is a 30-hectare rice-growing area, commonly known as the "First Acre of Field Beneath Yushan Mountain." Nan'an cultivates rice twice a year, resulting in two spectacular golden harvests annually—typically between June and July, and again between October and November. The area also features the Batongguan Excavation Monument, which records the start and completion dates of the Batongguan Traversing Trail, along with details such as mileage, cost, labor, and the number of casualties.
東段登山口 Eastern Trail Entrance
「八通關越嶺道」是日治時期 1918~1921 年興建的，而「八通關古道」則是在清朝 1896~1918 年修築的。兩條路徑完全不同，而且幾乎完全沒有重疊之處。我們這次要走的瓦拉米步道是八通關越嶺道的一小段。東段登山口(山風登山口)亦稱為瓦拉米步道登山口。八通關越嶺線在玉山國家公園內是東西橫向步道，由南投縣東埔登山口橫越中央山脈至花蓮山風登山口全程共約 96 公里，以大水窟為中心，分為東、西兩段。一般遊客最遠可從登山口至佳心駐在所後折返，在後面的路需要申請入山證才能進入。
The Batongguan Traversing Trail was built between 1918 and 1921 during the Japanese colonial period, while the Batongguan Historic Trail was constructed earlier, between 1896 and 1918, during the Qing Dynasty. The two trails are entirely different and have almost no overlap. The Walami Trail, which we are going to hike this time, is a short section of the Batongguan Traversing Trail. The Eastern Trail Entrance (Shanfeng Trailhead) is also known as the Walami Trail Trailhead. The Batongguan Traversing Trail is an east-west trail within Yushan National Park. It runs from the Dongpu Trailhead in Nantou County across the Central Mountain Range to the Shanfeng Trailhead in Hualien, covering a total distance of approximately 96 kilometers. It is divided into two sections, east and west, with Dashuiku as its center. Generally, tourists can only go as far as the Jiaxin Police Station from the trailhead and then turn back. They will need to apply for a mountain entry permit to enter the rest of the way.
山風駐在所 Shanfeng Police Station
駐在所是日治時期設立於蕃地的基層警察機關，負責治安與教化 (原住民) 的行政統治任務， 同時也負有授權的經濟任務和教導原住民兒童的教育任務。當時的原住民主要是布農族。山風駐在所舊址位於東段步道口入山 500 公尺之處，因為時常有強風吹進來，所以取名叫做「山風」。設置於 1920 年，於 1944 年裁撤。現在駐在所建築已經全毀，僅剩一休息平臺。
The Police Station/Residential Police Box was a grassroots law enforcement agency established in aboriginal areas during the Japanese colonial period. It was responsible for administrative tasks such as maintaining public security and educating Indigenous people. It also held economic authority and provided educational support for Indigenous children. The indigenous people at that time were mainly the Bunun people. The former Shanfeng Police Station, located 500 meters from the entrance of the eastern trail, was established in 1920 and closed in 1944. Because there are often strong winds blowing in, it is named "Shanfeng". Today, the station building no longer exists—only a rest platform remains.
山風一號吊橋 Shanfeng Suspension Bridge 1
山風 1 號吊橋距離步道入口 0.9 公里，吊橋長度約 120 公尺，有三十樓那麼高，是瓦拉米最大的吊橋。吊橋橫跨拉庫拉庫溪谷，視野非常壯闊。目前行走的山風 1 號橋於 2020 年初新建完成，原本的吊橋只留下一側橋墩，延伸出觀景平台。
Shanfeng Suspension Bridge 1 is located 0.9 kilometers from the trailhead. At approximately 120 meters long and as tall as a 30-story building, it is the largest suspension bridge in Walami. Spanning the Lakulaku Valley, it offers breathtaking views. The current Shanfeng Suspension Bridge 1 was newly constructed in early 2020, leaving only one side of the original bridge pier, which extends into a viewing platform.
山風下瀑布 lower Shanfong Waterfall
山風瀑布 Shanfong Waterfall
山風二號吊橋 Shanfeng Suspension Bridge 2
山風 2 號吊橋距離步道入口 1.7 公里，也是在山風瀑布的上層之處。前身是檜木建造的日式風格「春日橋」，1932 年日本人再依據原橋改建，至今吊橋還保有日治後期的樣貌，主索鐵線仍然完好，玉山國家公園在翻修時特別保留了日治時期的舊橋索，並且用鋼纜補強，山風橋兩側橋門與主索錨座均固定在堅實的岩盤上，無傾斜倒塌危險。1930年代改建的鋼筋水泥造橋門，橋門橫樑上提著蒼勁「山風橋」三字，仍保留至今日。
Shanfeng Suspension Bridge 2 is located 1.7 kilometers from the trailhead, near the upper Shanfeng Waterfall. The predecessor was the Japanese-style "Kasuga Bridge" built of cypress wood. In 1932, the Japanese rebuilt it. The bridge currently still retains its appearance from the late Japanese colonial period, with the original main cables remaining intact. During renovations, Yushan National Park carefully preserved these historical cables and reinforced them with steel ones. The bridge gates and main cable anchors on both sides are secured to solid bedrock, eliminating the risk of tilting or collapse. The reinforced concrete gates, rebuilt in the 1930s, still bear the bold inscription "Shanfeng Bridge" on the crossbeam.
南安瀑布 Nanan Waterfall
我們在回玉里市區之前，又在南安瀑布停一下。南安瀑布在卓安橋旁，距南安遊客中心僅 5 分鐘車程。南安瀑布的水源來自那母岸山與大里仙山稜脈間的集水區，水源豐沛，瀑布落差高度約 50 公尺，有上下兩個水潭，環境優雅，山水景致秀麗。
Before returning to Yuli City, we stopped at Nan'an Waterfall. Located next to Zhuo'an Bridge, it’s just a five-minute drive from the Nan'an Visitor Center. The waterfall is fed by a catchment area between the ridges of Namu'an Mountain and Dalixian Mountain. Its abundant water supply creates a drop of approximately 50 meters, with two pools—one above and one below. The scenery is both elegant and breathtaking.
玉里橋頭臭豆腐
回到玉里，導遊帶我們去吃玉里最有名的橋頭臭豆腐，真的名不虛傳。地址：花蓮縣玉里鎮民權街15號。(附近有個可愛的郵局車)。結束了半天紮實的行程。
Back in Yuli, our tour guide took us to try the famous Qiaotou stinky tofu, which lived up to its reputation. Address: No. 15, Minquan Street, Yuli, Hualien. (There's a cute post office van nearby) This marks the end of a solid half-day trip.
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World Through My Eyes (Photographs) Posts/我鏡頭裏的世(視)界帖子
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