Taiwan Travel Journal 2024.06.08 台灣旅行日記 (大稻埕)

Dadaocheng was once tribal land of the Basai people, the aboriginal people of Pingpu. In 1851, the Han settlers arrived to do business and established shops. Because the residents set up large open spaces here to dry rice and grain, it lead to the name Dadaocheng (大稻埕) which translated to “Big Rice Wharf”. After the opening of Tamsui Port in 1860, Dadaocheng blossomed into a bustling commercial hub in Taipei, mainly trading tea and cloth. The rise of Dadaocheng is closely related to the history of tea development. At that time, British businessman John Dodd came to Taiwan to inspect the place of origin of camphor. He unexpectedly discovered that Taiwan was very suitable for growing tea, so he introduced tea seedlings from Anxi, Fujian. He originally wanted to build a tea factory in Bangka but the Bangka people were extremely xenophobic and had constant conflicts, forcing him to set up the tea factory in Dadaocheng in the north. Later, many foreign merchants or Fujian tea merchants came to set up tea factories in Dadaocheng. It forms two major economic centers, south in Bangka and north in Dadaocheng. During the Japanese colonial period, Japanese businessmen resisted the influence of foreign companies and turned to Japan and Southeast Asia as their main markets. Then after World War II, Dadaocheng gradually lost its function as a river port due to the siltation of the Tamsui River, and Taiwanese tea was unable to compete with Ceylon black tea, so Dadaocheng gradually declined. Although the function of the wharf is no longer what it once was, Dadaocheng's charm endures. Its gorgeous Baroque buildings, traditional Minnan houses, bright red brick western-style buildings, tea shops, medicine shops, cloth shops, snacks, etc., are all attracting tourists. Today Dadaocheng has been transformed into a place for people to relax and have fun.
大稻埕原為平埔原住民巴賽族的所在地,1851年漢人開始遷至此經商並開設店鋪,因居民在此地設立大片曬稻穀的空地,平時則為農產品交易場所,故以大稻埕為名。1860年淡水開港後,大稻埕成為臺北商業貿易的重要之地,以茶葉與布料的貿易為主。大稻埕的崛起與茶葉發展的歷史息息相關,當時英國商人陶德來臺考察樟腦產地,意外發現臺灣極適合種植茶葉,遂引進福建安溪茶苗,原本想在艋舺興建製茶場,但艋舺人極度排外,衝突不斷,迫使他將製茶場設置在北邊的大稻埕,之後陸續很多的洋行來或福建茶商來這邊設茶廠,形成「南艋舺,北大稻埕」兩大經濟中心。日治時期後日商抵制洋行勢力,轉而以日本與東南亞為主要市場。戰後大稻埕因淡水河淤淺逐漸失去河港功能,且臺產茶葉不敵錫蘭紅茶的競爭,大稻埕逐漸沒落。現今雖然碼頭功能不復當年,但大稻埕華麗的巴洛克式建築、傳統的閩南房、明亮的紅磚洋樓、茶行、藥行、布行、小吃等都是吸引遊客的亮點,大稻埕已轉型為民眾休閒遊憩的去處。

Dihua Street Ten Buildings is a baroque two-story building with 10 buildings (even numbered 348 to 366 in Section 1 of Dihua Street) that are connected together. It was completed in 1912. During the prosperous period of business, there were mainly six families running business here. Five of which were rice mills and one was a sewing thread factory. In the early days, land transportation was inconvenient, and all goods were transported by water. Each bag of rice weighing 100 kilograms was transported by water to Taipei Bridge Pier, and then transported by human-powered wagons to nearby rice mills for sale or OEM. The convenience of transportation attracted the rice mills industry. The back door of the store was close to the Tamsui River, which was convenient for rice shipping. The rice was milled and refined in the back part of the building. The milled rice was placed in front of the store (facing Dihua Street, where a lot of people come and go) for sale. After World War II, food rationing began, and all rice was put under the control of the Food Bureau. The rice mill business was not as prosperous as before. The Ten Buildings have been passed down for several generations, and their original scene is no longer there. In recent years, after they were converted into residential buildings, the arcade on the facade of the old house was retained. They become a characteristic building of Dadaocheng’s historical style.
迪化街十連棟是 10 棟 (迪化街 1 段 348 至 366 雙號) 連續排列在一起的巴洛克式二層樓建築物,於1912年建造完成,在商業興盛時間,這裏主要是六大家族經營商業的店面,其中五家是碾米廠,一家是縫衣線工廠。早期陸地交通運輸不便,全靠船隻載運貨物經由水路運輸,每袋百斤重的稻米船運至臺北橋碼頭,再以人力皮車搬運至附近碾米廠買賣、代工或代銷,吸引碾米業聚集於此。店家後門近淡水河,方便稻米船運,建築物後段碾米加工精製,碾完的米擺置店前 (面臨迪化街,大量人潮流動) 銷售。二次大戰後,食物開始實施配給制,所有稻米收歸糧食局管制,碾米廠事業不如往常興盛,十連棟建築歷經數代傳承,原有風光不再。近年在改建成住宅大樓後,保留舊屋的立面騎樓,成為大稻埕歷史風貌的特色建築物。

Across street from Dihua Street Ten Buildings 迪化街十連棟對面

We walked along Dihua Street until we reached Dadaocheng Wharf. Along the way, we were attracted by the Japanese-style and imitation Baroque-style buildings with red bricks and washed stones alternately influenced by the Meiji Restoration. At the same time, we were also fascinated by the interesting items, food, and tea shops on this street... We couldn't take our eyes away.
我們沿著迪化街,一直逛到大稻埕碼頭廣場。一路被紅磚及洗石子交替受明治維新影響的日式及仿巴洛克風的建築吸引,同時也被這條街上有趣的物品、食品、茶行⋯讓我們目不轉睛。

Section 1 of Dihua Street, Yijin and Daoshi
迪化街一段,義進、稻舍
Li Ting Xiang bakery shop was founded in 1895. The first generation Li Tengfei learned the craft of cake making in Dadaocheng and returned to his hometown of Luzhou to open a bakery. Because the aroma of cakes often wafted from the Li family's veranda (Tingzijiao), he named it Li Ting Xiang. The second generation, Li Yuantan, expanded to open a store on Dihua Street in 1951. It is now the fifth generation. Taking the brand and value of Taiwan's traditional pastries as the main focus, the Dihua Street store was renovated in 2000 to transform the brand.
李亭香餅店創立於1895年,第1代李騰飛在大稻埕習得製餅手藝,回家鄉蘆洲開餅店,因為李家的騎樓(亭仔腳)常飄出餅香,於是命名為李亭香。第2代李淵潭在1951年擴展至迪化街上開店,至今已至第5代,以台灣傳統糕餅的品牌和價值為主軸,2000年將迪化街門市改裝來改造品牌。
In 2020, the Rice & Shine was announced to be registered as a historical building in Taipei City. It was formerly the "Yixing Rice Milling Factory" and is now the Rice & Shine Restaurant. The operation team restored the old house space that carries the historical stories of the rice shop. Through rice food, cultural experience allows visitors to recall the historical stories of rice mills in the past.
稻舍於2020年公告登錄為台本市歷史建築,前身是「益興碾米工廠」,現今為稻舍食館,營運團隊把乘載米行歷史故事之老屋空間重新修復,透過米食餐飲文化體驗,讓遊客回憶起過往碾米工廠的歷史故事。
Luban Bar opened in 2018. In addition to selling wine, it also sells the owner’s wood carvings. As for why it is called “Ludan”, it is because the girl the owner liked in his first love was called Ludan (marinated egg).
魯蛋茶酒館2018年開幕,除了賣酒外,也賣老闆的木雕作品,至於為什麼叫做『魯蛋』,是因為老闆初戀喜歡的女生就叫做魯蛋。
Fu Coffee 孵珈琲洋行
During the Japanese colonial period, Dihua Street was considered a street for Taiwanese outside the city. When opening a shop or doing business, the name of the shop was directly engraved on the outer wall. Li Ganxiang is a typical representative. Li Ganxiang is a well-known brand for making sesame oil on Dihua Street. The traditional way of making oil relies on manual labor. It was no longer sustainable when the founder passed it down to the second generation. Nowadays, there is a cafe "Wonderful Time Dadaocheng" here.
日治時期迪化街算城外台灣人的街,開店做生意都把店名直接刻在外牆上,李甘香就是典型的代表。李甘香是迪化街上知名的製麻油的老字號。傳統製油方式靠的是手工,辛苦又吃力,在創始人傳到第二代時就無以為繼了。現今是一間文青咖啡廳"美好時光大稻埕"在此。
The Lins Wagashi was founded in 1953. It is based on the belief that food is natural, most nourishing and fillings are home-made. The shop uses Taiwanese agricultural products to make the most Japanese-style wagashi.
滋養豆餡鋪創立於1953年,以食物天然,最宜滋養以及餡料親製的信念,用台灣農產品製作出最日式的和菓子。
ADOLE 皮件行
Strawberry Daifuku 草莓大福
Gao Jian is like an ancient grocery store. There are all kinds of old kitchen utensils, bamboo bags, bamboo baskets, handmade steamers... It was dazzling and we browsed for a while.
高建桶店像是古早的雜貨店,在這裏有各式舊時廚房器具、生活器皿,竹編包、竹籃、手工蒸籠... 令人眼花撩亂,我們逛了一陣子。
LeeRihSheng was established in 1986, specializing in wild mullet roe.
李日勝1986年成立,專營野生烏魚子。
Qingyuan Traditional Chinese Medicine Wholesale Store, next to the post office.
慶源藥行中藥批發店,在郵局旁。
Dihua Street is part of Dadaocheng. Since the end of the 19th century, it has been an important distribution center for groceries, tea, Chinese medicinal and cloth in Taipei. It is also the grand "Taipei New Year Market" for the Lunar New Year every year.
迪化街商圈是大稻埕的一部份,自19世紀末以來一直是臺北重要的南北貨、茶葉、中藥材及布匹的集散中心,也是每年農曆春節規模盛大的「台北年貨大街」。
Yongle Market is located next to Xia-Hai City God Temple on Dihua Street. This location was originally a garden. In 1908, the Japanese built Dadaocheng New Market here. In 1922, it was renamed "Yongle Market". In 1933, it underwent large-scale reconstruction and additions. There are eight bungalows in total, which can accommodate more than 200 stores. It was the largest market in Taiwan at that time. Originally a market that mainly sold food and snacks, due to the fabrics brought by ships, a cloth market gradually formed near Dadaocheng Pier, becoming Taiwan's largest wholesale place for imported fabrics. After World War II, due to government encouragement and manufacturers' research and development, it became a full-scale cloth market. Taiwan's largest fabric wholesale and retail center. The original market was demolished in 1982 and rebuilt on the same site. It was completed in 1985. In 2010, it was renamed "Yongle Fabric Market" to distinguish it from the traditional market.
永樂市場位於迪化街霞海城隍廟旁,這個位置原本是一座花園,1908年日本人在此建大稻埕新市場,1922年改稱「永樂町市場」,1933年大規模改築與增建,共八棟平房,可容納二百多家店面,是當時臺灣最大的市場。原先販賣飲食小吃為主的市場,由於船舶帶來布料,大稻埕碼頭附近逐漸形成布市,成為台灣最大的進口布料批發地;戰後,由於政府的鼓勵及廠商的研發,這裡變成全台灣最大的布料批發零售中心。原市場於1982年拆除,原地重建,1985年完工,2010年為與傳統市場區隔,改名為「永樂布業商場」。
Dadaocheng Theater is located on the 8th and 9th floors of the Yongle Market Building. It aims to promote traditional opera. The theater on the ninth floor handles various traditional opera performances such as Taiwanese Opera, Beijing opera, nanguan, Beiguan, Hakka Opera, rap and other performances. The theater on the eighth floor handles regular puppet shows, nanguan, and rap programs. Various rehearsal rooms and other spaces are also available for rent by art groups.
大稻埕戲苑位於永樂市場大樓8、9樓,以推廣傳統戲曲為目標,九樓劇場辦理各項傳統戲曲如歌仔戲、京劇、南管、北管、客家戲、說唱等演出,八樓曲藝場則規劃常態性布袋戲、南管、說唱節目,各排練室等空間亦提供藝文團體租借使用。
Although the name of this building built in 1917 is A.S. WATSON & Co., it is not owned by the well-known drug store chain today. It was built by Mr. Li Junqi, a medicinal materials merchant, who obtained the Watsons trademark rights during the Japanese colonial period. It was damaged by fire in the 1990s, and all the internal wooden structures were burned away, leaving only the stone exterior walls. It was listed as a municipal historic site in 2005. After several years of hard work by Li's descendants, the building has returned to its former glory. Now it is rented to the 小藝埕 Art Yard team, which retains the exterior walls of the old building "A.S. WATSON & Co." and transformed the three-story space from selling Western medicine into a cultural and creative concept gathering place, including cultural and creative shops, cafes, cultural performance spaces and bookstore.
這棟1917年興建的樓房,房名雖是屈臣氏大藥房,但並非現在眾所皆知的連鎖藥妝店所擁有。它是藥材商李俊啟先生在日治時代取得屈臣氏商標權而興建的樓房。1990年代遭火災毀損, 內部木造結構全燒淨,僅剩下石材打造的外牆,於2005年列市定古蹟。經李氏子孫數年的努力下,這棟樓房已回復往日風貌。現今租給小藝埕工作團隊,保留老屋「屈臣氏大藥房」的外牆 ,將三層樓空間從販售西藥轉變成文創概念聚集地,有文創小店、咖啡廳、文藝表演空間及書店。
The current Dihua Street Post Office was founded in 1919 as the "Taipei Yongle Town Special Post Office" and changed its name several times. Before 1946, the place name "Taipei Yongle Town" was used, and in 1994 it was renamed "Taipei Dihua Street Post Office".
今之迪化街郵局創立於1919年乃「臺北永樂町特定郵便局」,易名數次。1946年之前一直使用「台北永樂町」地名戳,1994年改稱「台北迪化街郵局」。

Dadaocheng Wharf Container Market 大稻埕碼頭廣場與貨櫃市集

Travel/Point of Interest Posts 旅遊景點帖子