Taiwan Travel Journal 2024.06.4-7 台灣旅行日記 (淡水)

The weather in Taiwan in early June was sultry and unstable, with frequent rains. We looked at the weather reports every day and frowned because we were used to living in Southern California, where there was little rain. We wanted to take advantage of our rare time in Taiwan to explore everywhere, but hesitated to go out because of the rain forecast. After chatting with friends who have lived in Taiwan all year round, I found that they are used to this rainy season and to them it's just a matter of bringing an umbrella. So we decided to go out and try our luck. We visited several tourist attractions in Tamsui during those days. In order to record the recent tourist attractions in Tamsui, I will intersperse some old photos in this article.
六月初台灣的天氣悶熱不穩定,常下雨,我們每天對著氣象報告愁眉苦臉,因為我們在少雨的南加州住慣了。我們想藉著難得在臺灣的日子到處探索,一看到下雨的預報便怯步不前。但與常年住臺灣的朋友聊天,發現他們習慣這種多雨的季節,對他們來說好歹就是帶把傘就罷了。想想我們也就決定出門試試運氣。那些天住淡水,便探訪幾個淡水的景點。為了記錄近來遊覽淡水的景點,在這篇會穿叉一些舊照片。

Tamsui District, formerly known as Huwei, is located in the northwest of New Taipei City, Taiwan, on the north bank of the downstream of the Tamsui River, the third longest river in Taiwan. The coast of Tamsui River estuary is a stop on the Southeast Asian sea route, and Datun Mountain is an excellent navigation indicator. Therefore, early humans lived a tribal life of fishing, hunting, and farming here. The indigenous Ketagalan people often interacted with ships from Southeast Asia, East Asia, the Japanese Islands and the Ryukyu Islands and bartering activities were carried out on the banks of the Tamsui River. Starting from the 16th century, Taiwan's superior geographical location attracted the attention of Western maritime powers. First, in order to ensure the management of the Philippines and to confront the Dutch, British, and Portuguese, the Spanish occupied Keelung in 1628. The Fort San Domingo was built near today's Fort Red Hair (Hongmaocheng) in Tamsui. In 1642, the Dutch who ruled southern Taiwan went north, expelled the Spanish and rebuilt the city near the original site, named Fort Antonio (today's Fort San Domingo/Fort Red Hair), and was dedicated to the transportation and marketing of sulfur, deerskin and local products. It also used Tamsui as a port to trade with merchants from Southeast Asia, East Asia and the Japanese Islands. In 1661, Zheng Chenggong crossed the sea to expel the Dutch. At this time, Huwei (Tamsui) had gradually transformed from a small fishing village into a prosperous village and a relatively large-scale trading port. After the signing of the Treaty of Tianjin in 1858, Tamsui officially opened its port. All foreign ships coming to Taiwan can only trade at treaty ports, and any transactions at other ports will be regarded as smuggling. In 1862, tariffs were officially imposed in Tamsui. Tamsui became the largest trading port in Taiwan. It attracted a large number of foreign businesses and missionaries to enter the Tamsui area for development, and built many Western buildings, forming a special and exotic cultural landscape. During the Japanese occupation, as the Tamsui River became increasingly shallow and inaccessible to large ships, efforts were made to build Keelung Port and railway transportation between Taipei and Keelung, gradually replacing Tamsui as an important trading port. After the 1990s, with the development of Dan-hai New Town, various transportation constructions were gradually promoted, making it an emerging population growth area on the periphery of Taipei Metropolitan Area.
淡水區舊稱滬尾,位於臺灣新北市西北部,全台第三長的淡水河下游北岸。淡水河口海岸是東南亞海路的中途站,大屯山又是極好的航途指標,因此早期人類在此以部落形式過著漁獵、放耕的生活,原住民族凱達格蘭族,經常與來自東南亞、東亞、日本群島及琉球群島等停泊的船隻,在淡水河河岸邊進行以物易物的活動。西元16世紀起,臺灣優越的地理位置,引起西方海權強國的注意,最先西班牙人為了確保菲律賓的經營,並為了和荷、英、葡對抗,佔領了基隆,並於1628年在今淡水紅毛城古蹟區附近建造聖多明哥城(San Domingo),1642年統治臺灣南部的荷蘭人北上,驅逐西班牙人並在原址附近重新築城,名為安東尼堡(Fort Antonio,今紅毛城),並致力於硫磺、鹿皮及土產的運銷,更利用淡水做為港口碼頭,和來自東南亞、東亞及日本群島的商人進行貿易。1661年,鄭成功渡海驅逐荷蘭人,此時滬尾已漸漸由小漁村,轉變成繁榮的街庄,及較具規模的貿易通商港口。1858年天津條約簽訂後,淡水正式開港。所有外國船隻來臺灣後只能限定到通商口岸進行貿易,在其他口岸交易者一律視為走私。1862年,淡水正式開始徵收關稅。淡水成為全臺灣最大的貿易港,吸引大量外籍商行、傳教士進入淡水區開發,並且建了不少西洋建築,形成特殊異國風情的文化景觀。日治時期,因淡水河河道日漸淤淺、大型船舶出入不便,乃積極建設基隆港及臺北與基隆之鐵路運輸,漸漸取代淡水成為重要貿易港地位。在1990年代以後,隨著淡海新市鎮的開發,各項交通建設逐步推動,使其成為臺北都會區外圍的新興人口成長地區。

Tamsui Golden Anchor is named after the golden waves caused by the setting sun reflected on the Tamsui River. After exiting Tamsui MRT Station, turn left and walk to Tamsui Old Street. On one side along the Tamsui River, you can overlook Guanyin Mountain and the estuary. On the other side there are many shops, and it is quite interesting to browse the shops selling unique items.
淡水金色水岸是因淡水河面上映著由夕陽造成的金色波浪而得名,從捷運淡水站出站後左轉向淡水老街步行即可抵達。一邊沿著淡水河畔可遠眺對岸的觀音山及出海口。另一邊商店林立,逛逛販賣有特色物品的商店還蠻有趣的。

Born in 1844, George Leslie Mackay came to Tamsui as a missionary in 1872. Carrying the sentiment of "Everything is for Christ", he devoted his life to missionary work, medical care and education in Taiwan. Therefore, sculptures, buildings and street names related to Mackay are often seen in Tamsui.
生於 1844 年的馬偕,在 1872 年來到淡水宣教,背負著「一切都是為了基督」的情懷,將畢生心力貢獻在台灣的傳教、醫療與教育上。因而在淡水常會看到與馬偕有關的雕塑、建築物以及街名。

  • Missionary work: Mackay began preaching one month after arriving in Tamsui. In 1872, he established the first church in the north. He learned popular Hokkien from a servant and a cowherd boy, and was able to preach in Taiwanese in five months. In seven years, he established 20 churches in the area north of Dajia River and also trained 22 local missionaries. Although Mackay worked hard to engage in missionary activities, it was not always smooth sailing. He encountered houses being destroyed and people who opposed his missionary activities throwing stones at him. However, he was not discouraged, but relied on patience, courage and medical treatment to win over the believers. After 1883, he shifted his missionary focus to Yilan, Hualien and other places where indigenous people (Kavalan Pingpu people) lived, and established churches. During Mackay's thirty years in Taiwan, he established a total of more than 60 churches.
    傳教: 馬偕在抵達淡水後的一個月便開始佈道,在 1872 年建立北部第一間教會,並從僕人及牧牛孩童那裡學到通俗的閩南語,而五個月後能用台語傳道,在七年間於大甲溪以北地區設立了 20 間教會,並培養了 22 個本地傳教師。馬偕竭盡心力從事宣教活動並不都是一直一帆風順,他有遭遇到房屋被拆以及被人擲石反對他傳教的事情,不過他並不氣餒,而是靠著耐心、勇氣及替民眾醫病來爭取信徒。1883 年以後他將傳教重心轉移至宜蘭、花蓮等原住民(噶瑪蘭(Kavalan )平埔族)的居住地傳教,並設立教會。馬偕在台三十年間,總共設立了 60 餘間教會。
  • Medical care: Although Mackay was not a doctor, he had studied anatomy and physiology. When he was a missionary in Tamsui, he started free medical care, helped people remove cavities, gave away malaria medicine, and taught people about public health. He spread the gospel through practical services, resulting in more and more converts day by day. With the support of some fellow friends back in western world, Mackay founded Ho-be MacKay Hospital, the first Western medicine hospital in northern Taiwan, in what is now Tamsui District in 1880. It later developed into the MacKay Memorial Hospital, which is famous throughout Taiwan.
    醫療: 馬偕雖然不是醫師但學過解剖學與生理學課程,在淡水傳教時就展開免費醫療的工作,幫人拔除蛀牙,贈送瘧疾特效藥,並教導民眾公共衛生知識。他藉著實質服務的方式傳播福音,使歸信的人與日俱增。馬偕在一些鄉親的資助下,於 1880 年在今日淡水區創建台灣北部第一所西醫醫院-滬尾偕醫館,之後發展成全台聞名的馬偕紀念醫院。
  • Education: During his missionary work in Taiwan, Mackay emphasized on cultivating local talents to carry on religious work. He also stressed the importance of educating students. In 1882, Mackay founded "Oxford College", today's Aletheia University. In addition to classroom teaching of Bible, theology and various sciences, there are also field studies and medical internships, making the studying diverse. Mackay saw that Taiwanese society at that time favored boys over girls, and almost all women were illiterate. So, he established Taiwan's first girls' school, Tamsui Girls' School, in 1884, pioneering girls' education.
    教育: 馬偕在台灣傳教相當重視培養本地人成為宣教人才,他也重視教育學生,1882年馬偕創建「牛津學堂」漢名為「理學堂大書院」(今真理大學),學校除課堂教授聖經、神學及各種科學外,還有野外考察、醫館實習,教學多元活潑。馬偕看到當時台灣社會重男輕女,女性幾乎都是文盲,於是在1884年又設立了台灣第一所女子學校「淡水女學堂」,開創了女子教育的先河。
In 1995, New Taipei City invited Professor Zhang Zilong, a sculptor from Tamsui, to create a commemorative sculpture for Mackay. It is located in the circle at the intersection of Mackay Street. 1995 年新北市邀請淡水雕塑家張子隆教授著手為馬偕創作紀念雕塑,這雕像位於馬偕街街口的圓環。
The artistic bronze statue of Mackay where Mackay landed is located on the river bank behind the Tamsui Post Office. It was created by Mr. Chen Kaihuang of the National Taipei University of the Arts. The bronze statue shows Dr. Mackay kneeling on the ground in front of the boat to pray to express his gratitude to God. 馬偕上岸處的馬偕藝術銅像位於淡水郵局後方河岸處,由國立臺北藝術大學陳愷璜先生所作,銅像為馬偕博士跪在船前的地面上禱告,以示感恩上帝。
Ho-be MacKay Hospital was designed by MacKay himself and built by the plasterer Hong Quanshi in 1880. It combines Chinese and Western styles, with Western-style round arch windows and a Minnan tile roof. The outer wall of the foundation is surrounded by Qilian stone, and the stairs are designed on both sides. It is now a designated historic site in New Taipei City. At present, the Ho-be MacKay Hospital still maintains its original appearance, and some of the medical equipment used by Dr. MacKay during his practice are still preserved in it.
位於馬偕街6號的滬尾偕醫館為馬偕親自設計,泥水匠洪泉師在1880年所興建,這醫館乃是中西合併的樣式,有西式的圓拱窗和閩南瓦的屋頂,基礎外垣圍唭哩岸石材,階梯採雙邊設計。現為新北市市定古蹟。目前醫館仍保持初建之樣貌,館內並保有一些馬偕博士行醫時之醫療器材。
The early Tamsui Chapel was a house rented by Mackay in 1872 and used for preaching gospel and practicing medicine. Later, it was renovated from the doctor's dormitory of the Ho-be MacKay Hospital. After Mackay's death in 1901, Tamsui Church entered a new era. Due to practical and expansion needs, after several reconstructions, the current chapel was designed and completed in 1933 by Pastor George William Mackay, Mackay's son.
初期的淡水禮拜堂乃1872年馬偕承租的房子,用來佈道及行醫,後來則是由偕醫館的醫師宿舍改建而成。1901年馬偕去世後,淡水教會進入了新的時代,由於實際及擴展需要,經過幾次改建後,現今樣貌的禮拜堂是1933年馬偕的兒子偕叡廉牧師所設計完成的。
The symbol of the Presbyterian Church in Taiwan, "Burn but not destroyed," comes from Exodus Chapter 3 of the Old Testament. It symbolizes that although God's people are in suffering, God wants to protect them and be with them. During the Qing-France War in 1884, seven churches were affected by xenophobic sentiments and burned down by angry local people. During the church reconstruction, Mackay used this symbol to represent that the Taiwanese church had emerged from persecution and difficult circumstances.
象徵臺灣基督長老教會的標記「焚而不燬」,源自舊約聖經出埃及記第3章,象徵著上帝的子民雖處於苦難中,但上帝卻要保護他們,與其同在。西元1884年清法戰爭時,陸續有7間教堂受到排外情緒的波及,遭本地憤怒民眾燒燬。在教堂重建時,馬偕用此標誌,代表著臺灣教會是從迫害、艱難的處境中洗鍊出來的。
It was designated as a Taipei County Historic Site in 1998 and is now a New Taipei City Municipal Historic Site.
1998 被指定為台北縣古蹟,現為新北市市定古蹟。
The exterior of the building imitates Gothic style. The "Trinity" on the front of the church, the "Five Loaves and Two Fishes" on the bell tower and the "Prayer in the Garden of Gethsemane" stained glasses add an elegant atmosphere to the chapel.
建築外觀仿哥德式,教堂正面的「三位一體」、鐘樓的「五餅二魚」和「客西馬尼園禱告」的彩繪玻璃,給禮拜堂添加了典雅的氣氛。
The Gospel bell next to the main entrance has existed since 1915. During the Second World War, it was requisitioned by the Japanese government as a siren and erected on the roof of Tamsui Red Building. It was later broken due to being bombed in an air raid. After the war, the bell was returned to the church and named it "Gospel Bell" in 1985.
正門旁的福音鐘自1915年即已存在,二次世界大戰期間,曾被日本政府徵用為警報器,架設於淡水紅樓屋頂,後因在空襲中遭受炸射而破裂,戰後此鐘被送回教會,1985年取名「福音之鐘」。
Aletheia University originated from Oxford College founded by Mackay in 1882. In order to inherit Dr. Mackay's contribution to Taiwan's culture, education, and medical care, the Presbyterian church in Taiwan Northern Office established the "Tamsui Institute of Business Administration" on the original site in 1965. In 1994, it was approved to be transformed into a four-year college. In 1999, it was renamed as "Aletheia University".
真理大學源自1882年馬偕創建的牛津學堂,北部台灣基督長老教會為繼承馬偕博士對台灣文化、教育、醫療的貢獻,於1965年在原址設立「私立淡水工商管理專科學校」,1994年奉准改制為四年制獨立學院,1999年改名為「真理大學」。
Chapel 大禮拜堂
Chapel 大禮拜堂
Oxford College 牛津學堂
Aletheia University 3H philosophy: Humble, Humane, Humorous 真理大學 3H 理念: 謙遜的、人道的、幽默的
Chapel 大禮拜堂
View of the Chapel from Oxford College 在牛津學堂遙望大禮拜堂
The cross flower clock on the Finance & Economics Building was built by the famous sculptor Yang Yingfeng in 1969. 財金大樓上的十字花鐘是名雕刻家楊英風在1969年建造完成。

Fort Santo Domingo is a national historic site designated by the Republic of China in 1983. There is a long history behind the main castle of Fort Santo Domingo and the British Consul’s Residence on its east side. In 1624, the Dutch wanted to establish a trading post in what is now Taiwan, and often attacked Chinese ships, which affected the trade between Spanish and Chinese. The Spanish decided to occupy Taiwan to fight against the Dutch, and at the same time, as the Dominican Order, they could start missionary work in China and Japan. In 1626, the Spanish occupied Jilong Island, and then in order to increase the source of food, they attacked what is now Tamsui. In 1628, they built a city in Tamsui as a stronghold, named it Fort Santo Domingo, and established a Catholic church next to it. In 1636, the local Indigenous people of Tamsui attacked Fort Santo Domingo and burned the wall to the ground. They also destroyed four churches. Later, due to insufficient military spending or defeat by the Dutch, the Spanish abandoned Fort Santo Domingo and burned the original wall when they withdrew. In 1641, the Dutch began to trade sulfur and deerskin with local residents in Tamsui. After occupying Jilong in 1642, they rebuilt a more fortified Fort Antonio near the original site of Fort Santo Domingo in 1644. Because the Han people at that time called the Dutch “Red-haired People”, Fort Antonio was also called the "Fort Red Hair". After Zheng Chenggong conquered Taiwan, the Dutch army completely withdrew from Taiwan in 1668. When they evacuated Fort Red Hair, they destroyed the city walls and burned items. In 1683, the Zheng family formally surrendered to the Qing Dynasty. It was not until 1724 that the Qing Dynasty renovated the Fort and built additional walls and four gates. In 1860, China and Britain signed the Treaty of Tianjin, and Tamsui Port was opened accordingly. The British established a consulate in Tamsui in 1861, and entered into a "Permanent Lease of Fort Red Hair" with the Qing government in 1867. After the consulate was moved, it was extensively repaired. Due to the surge in trade volume at Tamsui Port, the British built a two-story red brick mansion on the east side of the open space in 1891 as the official residence of the consul. Fort Red Hair was transformed from its original military use into an official place for consular offices, and became a place for exchanges with people from various countries. In 1895, Taiwan entered the period of Japanese rule, and Fort Red Hair still served as the British Consulate. In 1941, the Pacific War broke out and Japan declared war on Britain and the United States. The British Consulate in Fort Red Hair also closed in December. After the end of World War II, Britain returned to Fort Red Hair on the grounds of permanent lease rights and reopened its consulate. In 1950, the United Kingdom severed diplomatic relations with the Republic of China, but the consulate in Tamsui continued to operate. It was not until 1972 that the United Kingdom officially withdrew from Fort Red Hair and entrusted Australia to manage Fort Red Hair. Later, it was handed over to the United States. In 1979, the United States severed diplomatic relations with the Republic of China. The following year, the Ministry of Foreign Affairs of the Republic of China informed the United Kingdom that it would terminate the permanent lease and take back the land. In 1980, Fort Red Hair was officially handed over by the British to the government of the Republic of China.
紅毛城是中華民國於1983年指定的國定古蹟,這座紅毛城主堡及其東側的英國領事官邸背後有一長串的歷史。1624年荷蘭想在現今的臺灣設立貿易據點,經常劫掠中國船隻,而影響了西班牙與中國之間的貿易,西班牙人便決定佔領臺灣以對抗荷蘭人,同時作為天主教道明會 (Dominican Order)向中國及日本傳教的跳板。1626年西班牙人佔領了雞籠島,之後為了增加糧食的來源便攻打現今的淡水,1628年在淡水築城作為據點,命名為聖多明哥城,並於其旁設立天主教堂。1636年淡水當地的原住民攻打聖多明哥城,將城砦焚毀,同時也毀壞了4座教堂。而後西班牙人因軍費不足或不敵荷蘭人,棄守聖多明哥城,撤軍時焚毀原有城砦。1641年荷蘭人開始在淡水與當地居民進行硫磺與鹿皮貿易,1642年攻下雞籠之後,1644年於聖多明哥城原址附近重新建造一座更為堅固的安東尼奧城。由於當時的漢人稱荷蘭人為紅毛番,所以安東尼堡也被稱作紅毛城。鄭成功攻克臺灣後,1668年荷軍方自臺灣全數撤退,並在撤離紅毛城時,破壞城砦及燒毀物品。1683年鄭氏向清朝正式投降,直至1724年清朝才加以整修紅毛城,增建圍牆及四座城門。1860年中英簽訂天津條約,淡水港亦隨之開港。英國在1861年於淡水設立領事館,並於1867年與清廷訂定《紅毛城永久租約》,遷館後大幅修葺之。由於淡水港貿易量激增,1891年英國在東側空地增建兩層式紅磚洋樓,作為領事官邸。紅毛城從原本的軍事用途轉成領事辦公的公務場所,成為和各國人士交流之處。1895年,臺灣進入了日本統治時期,紅毛城仍作為英國領事館。1941年,太平洋戰爭爆發,日本向英美宣戰,紅毛城的英國領事館也在12月關閉。第二次世界大戰結束後,英國以永代租借權為由重返紅毛城,並復設領事館。1950年英國與中華民國斷交,但駐淡水之領事館仍維持業務,直到1972英國正式自紅毛城撤館,並委託澳大利亞代為管理紅毛城,爾後又交由美國代管。1979年美國與中華民國斷交,隔年中華民國外交部向英國表示將中止永久租約並收回土地,1980年紅毛城正式由英方交接予中華民國政府。

Fort Santo Domingo/Fort Red Hair/Hongmaocheng 紅毛城
The nine flags of Fort Red Hair (Fort Santo Domingo) represent the historical evolution of Fort Red Hair for more than 300 years. It has been managed or mandated to govern by the Spanish Empire, Dutch Empire , the Kingdom of Dongning, the Qing Dynasty, the United Kingdom, Japan, Australia, the United States, and the Republic of China. 紅毛城九面旗幟代表著紅毛城三百餘年來的歷史演變過程,其歷經西班牙、荷蘭、明鄭、清朝、英國、日本、澳大利亞、美國、中華民國之管理或代管。
Former British Consul's Residence 前英國領事官邸

Tamsui Customs Wharf is located opposite Fort Red Hair (Fort Santo Domingo). During the Qing Dynasty, it became an extremely important port in Taiwan due to the Treaty of Tianjin in 1858 and the Treaty of Beijing in 1860. After the British Vice Consul came to Taiwan for inspection in 1861, it was agreed to use Huwei (Tamsui) as a trading terminal. In 1862, the Qing Dynasty opened customs and officially collected taxes. The customs of the Qing Dynasty were divided into Xinguan (new customs, foreign customs) to collect tariffs on goods passing through the country's borders, and Changguan (old customs, common customs) to collect taxes on goods traded within the country. Since the targets of the new customs negotiations were all foreigners, they were placed under the management of the Prime Minister's Office of Foreign Affairs. The British were appointed as the General Taxation Department, and customs management rights were transferred to foreigners. A deputy taxation department was also set up to take charge of taxation at the four ports in Taiwan. In 1863, the British John William Howell served as the first Deputy Taxation Department. Foreigners began to be stationed in Huwei, with Huwei as the main customs, Jilong, Dagou, and Anping as the sub-customs, and the tax collection books were all From Huwei Customs to Tianjin Customs. The customs facilities in Huwei include the customs office area, the governor's official residence area and the dock area. Tamsui (Huwei) Customs was handed over to Japan in 1895. In 1916, the Tamsui Customs Office was moved from Tamsui to Dadaocheng, Taipei, indicating that Tamsui had lost its position as the leader of Taiwan's customs affairs. It was announced as a county-designated historic site in 2000.
淡水海關碼頭位於紅毛城對面,清朝時曾因1858年的天津條約及1860年的北京條約,而成為全臺極為重要的港口。1861年英國副領事來臺勘察後,議定以滬尾(淡水)為通商碼頭,1862年清朝開設海關,正式收稅。清朝海關分為新關(洋關)徵收通過國境的貨物關稅,及常關(舊關)徵收國境內交易貨物的稅款。由於新關交涉的對象均為外國人,於是劃歸為總理各國事務衙門經管,並請英國人為總稅務司,將海關管理權移轉給洋人,還設了副稅務司專管臺灣四港口稅務。1863年英人侯威爾(John William Howell)擔任首任副稅務司,開始有洋人專駐滬尾,以滬尾為本關,雞籠、打狗、安平為分關,徵稅銀冊均由滬尾關轉天津關庫。滬尾海關設施包含海關關署區、長官官邸區及碼頭區。1895年淡水海關移交給日本。1916年,淡水稅關總關自淡水移設臺北大稻埕,顯示淡水已失去統領全臺關務的地位。於2000年公告為縣定古蹟。

Customs Pier Entrance Bridge 海關碼頭入口橋
Customs terminal warehouse 海關碼頭倉庫
Displays in the Customs terminal warehouse 海關碼頭倉庫中的展示
Western Style Building 洋樓

Tamsui Fisherman's Wharf, formerly known as Tamsui Second Fishing Port, is a multi-functional leisure fishing port recently developed by the New Taipei City Government. This pier can float up and down with the ebb and flow of the sea, and can accommodate 150 fishing boats to berth at the same time. The nearby landmark Lover's Bridge is a good place to take memorable pictures.
淡水漁人碼頭舊名淡水第二漁港,是新北市府近期開發成多功能的休閒漁港,這座碼頭可隨海水漲退潮而上下浮動,並可同時容納150艘漁船停泊,附近地標情人橋有打卡的好景致。

Sculptures in front of Fisherman's Wharf light rail station 輕軌漁人碼頭站前的雕塑
Lovers' Tower 情人塔
福容大飯店淡水漁人碼頭 Fullon Hotel Tamsui Fisherman’s Wharf
Lover's Bridge 情人橋

Shalun used to be a haunt for sharks and green sea turtles, and it was also the killing ground where the French troops landed at Huwei in 1884. A private bathing beach was established in 1919 during the Japanese occupation. In 1959, it was jointly operated by the Tamsui District Office and the Taiwan Provincial Highway Bureau and named Shalun Beach. Later, it ceased operations in 1999 due to poor management, poor water quality, hidden rapids in the sea, and too high rent.
沙崙昔日為鯊魚、綠蠵龜出沒地,它也是1884年法軍登陸滬尾的殺戮戰場。1919年日治時期創設民營海水浴場,1959年由淡水區公所與臺灣省公路局合作經營,命名為沙崙海水浴場。後因經營不善、水質不佳、海域暗藏激流、租金太高在1999年停止營業。

Golden Tulip Fab Hotel, Tamsui 捷金鬱金香酒店

Peace Park is located near the Huwei Fort. It was an ancient battlefield in the Sino-France War in 1884. In memory of the soldiers and civilians who were killed and wounded in resisting foreign enemies during the Sino-France War, the Peace Park was named to pray for everlasting peace. This place was originally used as a nursery for the greening class of the Tamsui Cleaning Team. The mayor at the time believed that the place overlooking Guanyin Mountain and Tamsui River Estuary was beautiful and pleasant, so construction and renovation started in 2007 and it was officially opened in 2011.
和平公園位在滬尾砲台附近,曾是1884年清法戰爭的古戰場地,為感念清法戰爭中為抵禦外敵而傷亡的軍民,以和平公園為名來祈求和平永在。這裏原是作為淡水清潔隊綠化班的苗圃,當時的鎮長認為此地可以遠眺觀音山和淡水河口,風景優美宜人,便於2007年開始動工整修,至2011年正式啟用。

The Sino-French War was a war between the Qing Dynasty (China) and France to protect Vietnam. In the second half of the 19th century, the French emperor began to invade Vietnam, China's traditional vassal state. In 1862, Vietnam ceded the area around Saigon to France. In 1874, it signed a treaty recognizing Vietnam as a protectorate of France. At the same time, it appointed the Black Flag Army of Liu Yongfu of China to prevent the French army from moving north. In 1881, France instigated Vietnam not to tribute to the Qing Dynasty and no longer even recognized China as its suzerainty. In 1882, the French army attacked Vietnam again and attacked the Chinese Yunnan border. The Qing Dynasty sent troops to confront France, but the French navy had the upper hand and gained control of the Taiwan Strait. In 1884, it briefly captured Keelung, Penghu and other places, but was frustrated by the Battle of Huwei (Tamsui) and the epidemic. The strategic goal of capturing the entire island of Taiwan cannot be achieved. The ancient battlefield of the Battle of Huwei was the area from today's Tamsui Tiansheng Elementary School to Shalun Beach. At the end of the Sino-French War, the Qing Dynasty general Feng Zicai led various ministries in the Battle of Zhennanguan, inflicting heavy casualties on the French army and successfully recapturing Lang Son in Vietnam. The two countries resumed peace talks, resulting in the establishment of a new Sino-France treaty, and the Qing government recognized France's protective rights for Vietnam and the two countries reopened trade.
清法戰爭是清朝為了保護越南而與法國發生的戰爭。19世紀下半,法皇開始侵入中國傳統的屬國越南。1862年越南將西貢一帶的地區割讓給法國,1874年簽訂條約承認越南是法國的保護國,同時又任用中國劉永福的黑旗軍阻止法軍北上。1881年法國策動越南的反朝貢給清朝,甚至不再承認中國為宗主國。1882年法軍再次攻打越南並攻打雲南邊界,清朝派兵與法國對抗,但法國海軍佔上風,取得臺灣海峽制海權,1884年曾一度攻佔基隆、澎湖等地,卻因於滬尾(淡水)戰役受挫及疫病流行,無法達成拿下臺灣全島的戰略目的。滬尾之役的古戰場乃今日淡水天生國小到沙崙海水浴場一帶。清法戰爭後期清朝將領馮子才統率各部於鎮南關之役給法國陸軍帶來較重傷亡並成功奪回越南的諒山,兩國重啟和談,結果訂定清法新約,大清帝國政府承認法國對越南的保護權,兩國重開貿易。

The Tamsui Itteki Memorial House (A Drop of Water) located in Peace Park, is a Japanese-style building built in Japan in 1915. It was fortunately not destroyed during the Great Hanshin Earthquake in 1995. The owner donated the house so the victims could have a place to cherish and share memories. Later, Taiwan suffered the 921 Earthquake in 1999. In the mood of encouraging the victims to get back on their feet, the Japanese victims wanted to move the ancient Japanese-style house that had inspired them to Taiwan to bless Taiwan. In 2005, more than 600 logs of the house were dismantled and transported to Taiwan. They were reassembled and rebuilt in Tamsui and opened in 2011. The name "A Drop of Water'' is to commemorate the carpenter of this building, 水上覺治. The name is also taken from the thinking of Japanese Zen Buddhism, which advocates cherishing the resources of all things. Even if it is only an insignificant drop of water, it should be used to its fullest extent. The name also contains gratitude. Although the resources and workers of moving the builder are as small as a drop of water, they can eventually cooperate to complete this cross-border construction project. Finally, It is named after the famous writer Mizukami Tsutomu, son of 水上覺治, said, "A drop of water has infinite possibilities."
位於和平公園內的一滴水紀念館,又名水上宅,它是1915年建於日本的日式建築,1995年日本關西大地震時它很幸運地未遭毀壞,屋主為了讓震災受難的災民能有可懷當地共同回憶的地方,便把房子捐出。後來臺灣在1999年發生了921大地震,抱著鼓勵災民重新站起來的心情,日本的災民想把那棟曾經給他們鼓舞力量的日式古民宅移築到臺灣,來祝福臺灣。2005年600餘根的房舍原木經拆解運送來台,在淡水重組重建,於2011年開館。取名為一滴水,是為紀念此棟建築物的木工水上覺治;並取自日本禪宗之思維,崇尚珍惜萬物資源,就算只是微不足道的一滴水,也當物盡其用;更含有感謝移築的人士,雖力量小如一滴水,終能匯聚能量完成此一跨國移築工程;引用水上覺治之子,知名作家水上勉說的「一滴水脈有無限可能」來命名。

Cloud Gate Theater is a modern dance performance group founded by Lin Hwai-min in 1973. It is the first professional modern dance company in Taiwan. In 2008, a fire broke out at the rehearsal venue of the Cloud Gate Theater in Bali. Performance props and historical materials were almost destroyed. Later, the New Taipei City Government adopted the Law to Promote Private Participation in Public Construction to build the Cloud Gate Theater. Opened in 2015, in addition to serving as a rehearsal venue and administrative team office for Cloud GateTheater, it is also a platform for domestic and foreign artists to create, perform, and engage in cross-border exchanges.
雲門舞集是一個現代舞蹈表演團體,於1973年由林懷民創辦,是台灣的第一個現代舞職業舞團。2008年雲門舞集在八里的排練場發生火災,演出道具及歷年資料幾乎焚毀殆盡,後來新北市政府引用促進民間參與公共建設法來興建雲門劇場。2015年開幕,除作為雲門舞集排練場與行政團隊辦公室外,也是匯聚國內外藝術家創作、演出、跨界交流的平台。

Walking from Cloud Gate Theater to the city, you will see the green rice fields and vegetable gardens, which makes me feel happy.
從雲門舞集往市區走,綠油油的稻田及一畦畦的蔬菜園,令人舒心愉悅。

I like Chi Po-lin's works very much, and you can see some of his works at the "Chi Po-lin Foundation" in Tamsui. With the generous support of thousands of people, "Chi Po-lin Museum" was officially opened in 2019 in the back building of Douglas Lapraik & Co. ((No. 316-1, Zhongzheng Road)) in Tamsui. Through different themed exhibitions, you can see the story of Taiwan’s land here.
我很喜歡齊柏林的作品,在淡水的「看見-齊柏林基金會」可看到少許他的作品。經數千人的慷慨支持,2019年「齊柏林空間」在淡水得忌利士洋行後棟正式啟用。透過不同主題策展,在此可看到臺灣土地的故事。

Tamsui Red Castle was originally built in 1895 by Li Yihe, a shipping merchant who made a fortune by managing a foreign shipping company. It was completed in 1899. Later, due to the accident of two cargo ships owned by Li Yihe, he had financial difficulties, so he had to sell the building to theTamsui street head, Hong Yinan, in 1913. Because of the vast view of the Red Castle, it was named Taguan Building. Later it changed hands and became a restaurant and art gallery after renovations were completed in 2000.
淡水紅樓原由開設洋行經營船頭行致富的船商李貽和於1895年興建,於1899年落成。後因李貽和的兩艘貨船發生意外,經濟困難,只好將此樓在1913年轉賣給淡水街長洪以南,由於紅樓視野遼闊便命名為達觀樓。後又易手他人,在2000年整修完成後成為了餐廳與藝文館。

Pictures were taken in 2023

There are often hidden places to visit in the alleys of Tamsui.
淡水的巷弄間,常會隱藏著可參觀的地方。

The residence of Japanese painter Shizua Kinoshita in Tamsui 日本畫家木下靜涯在淡水的住處
Tamsui Police Chief's Residence 淡水日本警官宿舍
Street Art Sur Escaliers 淡水彩繪階梯

Travel/Point of Interest Posts 旅遊景點帖子