Taiwan Travel Journal 2024.05.19 台灣旅行日記 (鳳凰花與阿勃勒, 大溝頂, 自由黃昏市場)

In the morning, we went out to have breakfast and strolled by the Love River. The Royal Poinciana flowers decorated the Love River even more beautifully.
早上出去吃早點,又在愛河邊逛逛,鳳凰花把愛河點綴的更加美麗。

We then took the light rail and got off at Kaisyuan Rueitian Station. Along the way, we admired the Golden shower trees, which felt like we were in a fairyland, and slowly walked to Kaisyuan MRT Station.
我們接著坐輕軌到凱旋瑞田站下車,一路上欣賞著有如置身在仙境的阿勃勒樹叢中,這樣慢慢的走到了凱旋捷運站。

Dagou Ding Old Street: This distinctive commercial thoroughfare bridges the northern and southern parts of Yancheng District. Constructed with tin sheets, the buildings stand at a unique “one and a half floors high.” On the ground floor, bustling shops beckon visitors, while the half-floor above serves as storage rooms or even cozy homes. Spanning approximately 850 meters, Dagou Ding Old Street offers a delightful blend of experiences. Here, you can savor delectable food, purchase fabrics, have custom-made clothes tailored, and shop as if in a department store. It’s a place where life’s essentials—from birth to the final journey—are well-catered for. The street’s intriguing name, Dagouding, has historical roots. During the Japanese colonial era, it transformed into a large drainage ditch as the Japanese filled in the Houbi Port, a tributary of the Love River. Over time, businesses flocked to the area, drawing urban and rural immigrants seeking better lives. In 1954, City Councilor Chen Yinkui proposed a solution to address overpopulation, lack of space, and child safety concerns. The “big ditch” that traversed the district was covered, and a row of shopping streets emerged, featuring wooden boards and cement tiles subleased to vendors. During the 1960s to 1980s, the bustling aisle ran down the middle of the shopping street. Shops opened both front and back doors, creating a lively hub. Chinese New Year brought crowds, and the market even operated 24/7. In 1975, the market underwent a transformation, adopting an all-iron structure with shops placed in the center. The arrangement shifted from “face-to-face” to “back-to-back,” widening the aisles but reducing store accessibility. Some attribute this change to Dagouding’s shift from prosperity to decline. In 2022, local renovations breathed new life into the old stalls. The innovative “Young and Old Shared Market” concept emerged, infusing fresh ideas and making this historic space the trendiest hotspot for young people. Next time you explore Dagou Ding Old Street, appreciate its rich history and the vibrant pulse of reinvention.
大溝頂商場是串聯鹽埕區南北的特色商業街道,這是一個用鐵皮搭建的商店街,建築皆為「一樓半高」,一樓做為店鋪,天花板上方半樓做為儲藏室或是住家,大溝頂全長約850公尺,在這裏可以享受美食、買布料、定做衣服、買百貨及舶來品⋯ 從出生到死亡的民生必需品,幾乎在此都可包辦。為什麼叫大溝頂呢?原來它是日治時期,日本人填築愛河支流「後壁港」時被整治成排水用途的大水溝。後來商家開始陸續聚集,城鄉移民湧進港邊的鹽埕討生活,為了解決人口過剩、腹地不足,加上常有孩子跌進水道等問題,1954年,市議員陳銀櫃便向市政府提出申請,將貫通全區的「大溝仔」鋪上蓋,再用木板、水泥瓦搭建一排商店街,分租給攤商。據說在民國 50 到 70 風光之時,走道在商店街中央,前後門都可以打開作生意,擠滿人潮,過年期間幾乎沒辦法休息,甚至要二十四小時營業。直至民國 64 年,市場重建成全鐵皮,商店換在中間,從「面對面」的排列改成「背靠背」的商店街,走道移到兩邊,走道的寬度增加了,但是店家的可及性相對降低,許多店家認為那是大溝頂由繁榮轉趨衰退的轉折點。2022年經在地團隊改造,保留老攤並融入新構思,實驗新穎的「青銀共市」,給了這個空間新的詮釋及面目,老市場搖身一變成為文青最潮聖地。下次到大溝頂時,可留心欣賞它豐富的歷史和充滿活力的革新脈動。

The appearance of the market remains unchanged, but is decorated with plants to give it a new look. 市場外型沒變,加以植物點綴,使之煥然一新
Hungrybugplan serves snacks and cocktails 空腹蟲大酒家供應小吃及雞尾酒
The cultural and creative store "Mengcheng" sells various cultural and creative products and operates as an unmanned store 文創店「夢埕」售賣各種文創精品,更以無人店方式經營
Murals bring past life and atmosphere to life before your eyes 壁畫將昔日生活及氛圍重現眼前
Advertise using old movie billboards 用昔日電影看板方式做廣告

As we strolled near Dagou Ding, we encountered the intriguing Zeizai Market, also known as the “stolen goods market” or flea market. The name itself piqued our curiosity. Historically, Yancheng’s proximity to Kaohsiung Port fostered commerce, attracting sailors seeking extra income. These seafarers would bring in smuggled imported goods, creating a lively marketplace. But that’s not all—the market had an unexpected clientele: thieves. They discreetly sold their stolen wares here, earning a reputation for the market as the “Thief City.”However, as time marched on, Yancheng faced changes. The bustling days of illicit trade waned, and so did the Thieves Market. Today, it has transformed. Instead of contraband, you’ll find a diverse array of goods: clothing, dry goods, imported candies, biscuits, and more.
在大溝頂附近,我們經過鹽埕賊仔市,覺得這個名字很有趣,在網路上得知由於鹽埕鄰近高雄港,而且商業發達,想賺外快的水手會將偷渡的舶來品帶來這邊賣,另外小偷也會在這裡便宜銷贓,久而久之這裡就被叫做賊仔市。隨著時代變遷,鹽埕沒落,賊仔市也逐漸沒落了,這裡現在不賣偷渡的舶來品及小偷的贓物,而改賣服飾、乾貨、進口的糖果餅乾等。

At noon, we went to "xún shì zhǎng" located at No. 257, Qixian 3rd Road, Yancheng District, Kaohsiung City to try it out. This shop is famous for its seafood porridge, fresh crabs, and seafood dishes. Since we arrived late, the seafood porridge was sold out. I usually don’t know how to order food, so I asked the owner to prepare their famous crabs for us. I don’t remember what kind of crabs they were. I just remember that this meal was not cheap (relatively speaking) but the crabs were very fresh and delicious.
中午去位於高雄市鹽埕區七賢三路257號的《蟳市長》嚐鮮。這家店以海鮮粥跟新鮮的螃蟹、海鮮料理出名。由於我們去晚了,海鮮粥已賣完,我平常不知道怎麼點菜,就請老板幫我們準備螃蟹,現在已經不記得這是哪一種螃蟹,只記得這一餐不便宜但是螃蟹很新鮮也好吃。

In the evening we went to the Ziyou Traditional Market. There were many kinds of stalls, including fresh fruits and vegetables, cooked food and drinks, clothes and shoes.
傍晚我們去逛自由黃昏市場,攤位種類很多,生鮮蔬果、熟食飲品、衣物、鞋子,應有盡有。

Travel/Point of Interest Posts 旅遊景點帖子