Travel/POI: Taiwan North Coast - Jinshan District (臺灣北海岸金山區)

Taiwan's North Coast encompasses Sanzhi District, Shimen District, Jinshan District, Wanli District, Keelung District, and Mt. Guanyin, which are collectively known as the "North Coast and Guanyinshan National Scenic Area." On April 12, 2023, a friend invited us to join a community group for a day trip to the North Coast. The cost was 1,000 Taiwanese dollars (about 33 US dollars) per person, which included transportation by tour bus, insurance, and three meals for the day. It was very economical. We visited several attractions in the Jinshan, Shimen, and Sanzhi districts. Let me share our travel information and photos by region.

台灣北海岸包括了三芝區、石門區、金山區、萬里區、基隆區及觀音山，統稱「北海岸及觀音山國家風景區」。 2023 年 4 月 12 日，朋友邀我們與一個社區團體一起去北海岸一日遊，一人1千台幣(約美金33元)，這費用包括了遊覽車車資及保險，以及當天三餐的費用，經濟實惠。我們去了幾個景點在金山區、石門區及三芝區。我就分區分享旅遊資料及照片吧。

Shueiwei Guangwu Tunnel 水尾光武坑道

Before heading to the first attraction, Shihtou Mountain Park, we passed through the Shueiwei Guangwu Tunnel, a defensive fortification used by the Japanese military during the occupation era. We walked up a small alley on the right side of Wailing Temple, and about 30 meters in, we found the entrance to the Guangwu Tunnel.

This narrow, 360-meter-long tunnel is completely dark and unlit. The ground is uneven, full of bumps and hollows, and is said to be home to many bats—giving the tunnel a spooky atmosphere. Our guide asked us to turn on our cell phone flashlights, and it felt like children going on an adventure in a cave, which was quite fun.

The tunnel was dug by the Japanese between 1943 and 1945, primarily to store military supplies, machine guns, and ammunition, helping support troops in Shueiwei and Huanggang. In addition to the main tunnel, there are many branches leading to machine gun ports, exits, and ammunition storage areas.

Therefore, when entering the tunnel, it's essential to bring a flashlight and pay attention to the signs on the walls to avoid getting lost. After walking for a while, we finally emerged from the tunnel and continued following the signs to Shihtou Mountain Park.

要去第一個景點獅頭山公園之前，我們先去體驗一下日據時代日軍的防禦工事坑道 - 水尾光武坑道。我們順著威靈宮右側的小巷往上走，約 30 公尺處即看見光武坑道洞口。

這個 360 公尺長的狹窄坑道，完全沒有照明，烏漆墨黑伸手不見五指，地面高高低低坑坑窪窪，聽說裏面還是許多蝙蝠棲息出沒的地方，讓這個坑道有一種鬼異的感覺，幸好人多，領隊要我們打開手機照明功能，一個跟一個，感覺好像小孩一起進洞探險，還蠻有趣的。

這個坑道是日本人在 1943 到 1945 年之間挖的，主要是用來堆放軍糧、機槍和彈藥，便於水尾和磺港兩地的兵力支援，除了主坑道外，還有許多分支各自通往不同的機槍口和出口，以及儲存彈藥的地方。

所以進洞一定要帶手電筒，並留意牆上的指標，以免迷路。走了一陣子，總算出了坑道，我們接著跟著獅頭山公園的指標前進。

Photo Date: 2023.04.12

Shihtou Mountain 獅頭山

Shihtou Mountain offers an excellent view and was once a military-controlled area, which helped minimize human impact on the environment. As a result, it has preserved its natural and original ecological landscape, along with old barracks, bunkers, and fortresses.

Shihtou Mountain Park was formerly known as "Jinshan Zhongzheng Park." The name "Shihtou Mountain" was given because the shape of the mountain resembles a lion lying down. It is located on Jinshan Cape on the North Coast, with an elevation of about 70 meters. Looking east, you can see Yeliou Cape, while to the west are the mountain and sea views of Huanggang Fishing Port and Jhongjiao.

There are two trails in the park. The southern trail, known as the Haoyun Trail, leads to the Jinshan Visitor Center. Near the entrance to this trail, you can see a statue of the Little Maitreya Buddha, Afu. Since we didn’t walk this trail, we didn’t see the Big Maitreya Buddha.

The other trail, called the Shihtou Mountain Trail, leads north and offers views of Huanggang Fishing Port, the Twin Candlesticks (islets), and access to a Mystery Beach.

獅頭山展望視野極佳，曾是軍事管制區，所以受到的人為破壞較少，也因而保存著自然原始的環境生態，並留有舊營房、碉堡及砲台。

獅頭山公園舊稱「金山中正公園」，而「獅頭山」這個名稱則是因山勢形似雄獅坐臥而得名，位於北海岸的金山岬上，海拔約70公尺，望東可見野柳岬，西邊則是磺港漁港與中角的山海景。

公園中有兩條步道，往南經好運道步道到金山遊客中心，在步道進口附近可看到小彌勒佛_阿福，我們沒走這條步道，所以沒看到大彌勒佛。

另一條獅頭山公園步道往北，可眺望磺港漁港及燭臺雙嶼以及到神秘海灘。

Twin Candlesticks (Islets) 燭臺雙峙

The Twin Candlesticks (Islets) are composed of two rocky reefs, each several tens of meters high, with a solitary and towering appearance that resembles a pair of candlesticks. The Twin Candlesticks, also known as the Husband and Wife Rocks, have a love story behind them.

According to legend, a fisherman’s wife would wait every day at the rocky shore for her husband to return from fishing. However, one day he did not return due to a storm at sea. Eventually, she turned into a rock, standing by the sea forever. Years later, the fisherman returned and learned of his wife’s fate. He wept beside the rock and eventually turned into a rock himself. The two rocks have stood side by side ever since, which is why they are also known as the Husband and Wife Rocks.

燭臺雙峙由兩座數十公尺高的岩礁所組成，外型孤立挺拔，猶如一對燭台，故名「燭臺雙峙」。蠋臺雙嶼又被稱為夫妻石，背後流傳著一則愛情故事。

據傳說，有位少婦的丈夫出海捕漁，因遇上了大風浪而遲遲未歸，他的妻子每天在岩岸邊等待先生返航，但卻渺無音訊，最後化做岩石佇立在海邊，多年後丈夫返家得知此事，在少婦石旁痛哭，最後他也化做岩石，兩人從此後緊緊相連，長伴左右，這是別名夫妻石的由來。

Mystery Beach 神秘海岸

Next, we went down the stairs leading to the coast and arrived at Mystery Beach. Here, you can see unique marine abrasion landforms, such as chessboard rocks, honeycomb rocks, and intertidal tidal trenches. The rocks display patterns in various colors, as if they were stunning works of art created by the hands of God.

If I hadn’t been traveling with a group, I would have stayed longer to enjoy the beautiful rocks and the pretty butterflies.

接下來我們順著通往海岸的階梯而下，便到達神秘海岸。這裏可看到特殊的海蝕岩礁、豆腐岩、蜂巢岩、潮間帶潮溝等地形，岩石上呈現出不同顏色的花紋，好像出自神手中奇特的藝術品。

如果我不是跟團旅行的話，我會待在這裏一段時間來欣賞這些美麗的岩石以及漂亮的蝴蝶。

The fishing village near the Shuiwei Fish Harbor also has some unique scenes.

水尾魚港附近的魚村景觀也別有景緻。

Huanggang public bathhouse 磺港公共浴室

After getting back on the tour bus, we headed to the nearby Huanggang Public Bathhouse to soak our feet, rest, and have lunch. The hot springs in Jinshan District are part of the Datun Mountain geothermal zone. When the spring water first gushes out, it is transparent and colorless. However, once the iron ions in the water come into contact with air and oxidize, the water turns golden brown.

Although it may look like dirty, muddy water, this is a natural characteristic of an “iron spring,” so there is nothing to worry about. Because of its unique color, it has earned the nickname “Golden Soup.”

上了遊覽車後，便來到附近的磺港公共浴室泡腳、休息及吃便當。金山區的溫泉屬大屯山地熱帶，源泉湧出時為透明無色，但泉中的鐵離子經接觸空氣氧化後便呈金褐色。

雖然看起來像髒髒的泥巴水，但這是"鐵泉"的自然現象，不用掛心，它還贏得有「黃金之湯」的美譽。