2022 年 7 月 27 日在苗栗三義騎完鐡道自行車後，我們便來南庄逛逛。與三義鄉一樣，2016 年南庄也通過「國際慢城認證」。
南庄鄉位於苗栗縣東北部。在有歷史記載以前，南庄地區已是原住民賽夏族與泰雅族的聚落。1805－1814 年間開始有漢人陸續遷入，他們與原住民女通婚並開始墾殖。現今鄉內人口組成相當多元：客家族群佔比最高（約 83%），其次為原住民（主要是賽夏族與泰雅族，其中南庄有全台最多的賽夏族人口）、外省人以及福佬人。
由於豐富的山林資源，南庄過去曾以林業、煤礦開採和樟腦生產為經濟命脈。然而，隨著產業結構的改變及煤礦產業的衰退，如今南庄已轉型發展生態旅遊與休閒農業。此外，南庄也以其豐富的農特產聞名，即「南庄三寶」：桂竹筍、鱒魚和香菇。
南庄鄉地形以丘陵與山地為主。清代時，曾以「三台疊翠」(墨硯山、八角崠山脈、加里山) 的勝景，被列為「苗栗縣八景」之一。如今，全鄉位於交通部觀光署管轄的獅頭山風景區範圍內；獅頭山風景區與梨山風景區、八卦山風景區合稱「參山國家風景區」。由於我們沒有時間去探訪週邊的自然風光，我們選擇在南莊老街一帶逛逛。
南庄老街位於中正路（近永昌宮）及其鄰近巷弄一帶。主要景點包括南庄老郵局、乃木崎 (為紀念日治時期乃木希典總督捐獻整建的石階步道)、桂花巷和洗衫坑。遊客不僅可以欣賞日據時期的特色建築，還能品嚐桂花釀等當地特產以及獨特的客家美食。
On July 27, 2022, after riding the rail bikes in Sanyi, Miaoli, we visited Nanzhuang to look around. Like Sanyi Township, Nanzhuang Township received "International Cittaslow" (Slow City) certification in 2016.
Nanzhuang Township is located in the northeastern part of Miaoli County. Prior to recorded history, the Nanzhuang area was inhabited by the indigenous Saisiyat and Atayal peoples. Han Chinese settlers began arriving between 1805 and 1814; they married indigenous women and cultivated the land. Today, the township's population is quite diverse: the Hakka people constitute the largest group (approximately 83%), followed by indigenous peoples (specifically the Saisiyat and Atayal—with Nanzhuang hosting the largest Saisiyat population in Taiwan), Mainlanders, and Hoklo people.
Thanks to its abundant forest resources, Nanzhuang’s economy was historically driven by forestry, coal mining, and camphor production. However, with shifts in the industrial structure and the decline of the coal industry, the town has since pivoted toward developing eco-tourism and leisure agriculture. It is also renowned for its rich local specialties—known as the "Three Treasures of Nanzhuang": Makino bamboo shoots, trout, and shiitake mushrooms.
Nanzhuang Township is characterized by hilly and mountainous terrain. During the Qing Dynasty, the area was designated as one of the "Eight Scenic Spots of Miaoli County" for its "Three Peaks of Verdant Splendor" (comprising Moyan Mountain, the Bajiaodong Mountain Range, and Jiali Mountain). Today, the entire township falls within the Lion's Head Mountain Scenic Area, as designated by the Tourism Administration, MOTC. The Lion's Head Mountain Scenic Area, along with the Lishan and Baguashan Scenic Areas, collectively forms the Tri-Mountain National Scenic Area. Because we did not have time to explore the surrounding natural scenery, we opted to simply stroll around the vicinity of Nanzhuang Old Street.
Nanzhuang Old Street is located along Zhongzheng Road—near Yongchang Temple—and its adjacent alleys. Key attractions include the Old Post Office, Nogi-zaki (Commemorating the stone stairway and walkway donated and constructed by Governor-General Nogi Maresuke during the Japanese colonial period), Osmanthus Alley, and the Laundry Pit. In addition to admiring the distinctive architecture from the Japanese colonial era, visitors can sample local specialties such as osmanthus nectar and unique Hakka cuisine.
桂花巷, 洗衫坑 Osmanthus Alley, Laundry Pit
「桂花巷」原本只是巷口一家麵店的名字，店主因喜愛電影《桂花巷》而以此命名。2000年初，一家「桂花巷工坊」在巷口開業；隨後，在當地政府與居民的刻意營造下，開始銷售桂花釀、手工桂花蛋捲等「特產」，來迎合市場需求並塑造觀光形象。這堪稱利用旅遊業塑造地方文化的典型範例。
位於桂花巷尾的洗衫坑，曾是當地居民洗滌衣物和農產品的地方。上頭的石製洗衣板，留下了客家人勤儉持家生活方式的印記。
"Osmanthus Alley" was originally just the name of a noodle shop at th e entrance of the alley—a name chosen by the owner because of his fondness for the film Osmanthus Alley. In early 2000, an "Osmanthus Alley Workshop" opened at the alley's entrance; subsequently, through the deliberate efforts of the local government and residents, the area began selling specialty products such as osmanthus nectar and handmade osmanthus egg rolls to meet market demand and cultivate a tourism-friendly image. This serves as a striking example of using tourism to shape local culture.
Located at the far end of Osmanthus Alley, the laundry pit was once a place where local residents washed their clothes and produce. The stone washboards found there preserve traces of the frugal and industrious lifestyle of the Hakka people.
南庄老郵局 Nanzhuang Old Post Office
這座老郵局是苗栗縣歷史建築十景之一。南莊郵便局建於日據時期的 1900 年，後在 1935 年的關刀山大地震中損毀；現存建築為震後重建，採用了融合日式和風與洋式混和風格的木造設計。於 2003 年正式登錄為歷史建築，目前為「南庄文化會館」所在地，主要展示當地歷史與原住民文化。
The Old Post Office is one of the ten official historic buildings in Miaoli County. Originally established in 1900 during the Japanese colonial period, the Nanzhuang Post Office was destroyed by the 1935 Guandaoshan Earthquake; the current structure was subsequently rebuilt featuring a wooden design that blends Japanese and Western architectural styles. It was officially registered as a historic building in 2003 and currently houses the Nanzhuang Cultural Center, which primarily exhibits local history and Indigenous culture.
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