苗栗縣位於臺灣中部。2022 年 7 月 27 日我的大學同學邀約我們到苗栗三義搭鐡道自行車 。這是我第一次到苗栗來。
苗栗縣東倚雪山山脈，西濱臺灣海峽。縣內轄有 18 個鄉鎮市。全縣地勢崎嶇且多山地阻隔，故有「山城」之別稱。居民主要族群為客家人。依據考古學家的研究，苗栗地區在史前時期已有先民在此地生活。一千多年以前，原住民平埔族道卡斯族移居此地。自17世紀中葉起，漢人開始移入屯墾，最初遷移至此的客家人與閩南人便以道卡斯族巴利社的社名，其音近似貓狸之發音作為地名。清光緒 15年（1889年）臺北府以近音雅字苗栗，作為新的縣名及堡名。二次大戰後初期屬新竹縣之一部，1950 年臺灣施行地方自治後，苗栗縣恢復設置，其行政區域沿用至今。
三義鄉舊稱「三叉」、「三叉河」，位於苗栗縣南端。氣候上屬於副熱帶季風氣候，深受季風影響，冬季多霧，因此贏得了「霧鄉」的美譽。當地地形以山地為主，盛產茶葉、木藝製品及木炭。鄉內居民以客家人為主，客家語亦為主要的通用語言；因此，當地的旅遊產業發展便以「客家文化」為主題展開。三義鄉的木雕產業極盛，享有「台灣木雕王國」之美名。除了木雕藝術與客家文化外，近年來還興起了一股以「鐵路」為主題的觀光熱潮。這一趨勢源自於台灣鐵路舊「山線」——即那條曾橫貫三義鄉的鐵路線——所留下的眾多歷史遺跡，其中尤以勝興車站週邊的景點最具代表。2016 年，三義鄉正式獲得了義大利的國際總部認證，榮膺「國際慢城」（Cittaslow）認證。這項認證所倡導的理念是「慢食、慢遊、慢活」，旨在推動生態保育、文化傳承以及在地永續發展。
Miaoli County is located in central Taiwan. On July 27, 2022, my university classmate invited us to Sanyi, Miaoli, to ride the rail bikes. This was my first time visiting Miaoli.
Miaoli County is bordered by the Xueshan Mountain Range to the east and the Taiwan Strait to the west. The county comprises 18 townships and cities. Due to its rugged terrain and prevalent mountainous barriers, it has earned the nickname "Mountain City." The primary ethnic group among its residents is the Hakka people. According to archaeological research, early inhabitants were already living in the Miaoli region during the prehistoric era. Over a thousand years ago, the Taokas—an indigenous Pingpu tribe—migrated to and settled in this area. Beginning in the mid-17th century, Han Chinese settlers began migrating into the region to establish settlements. The early Hakka and Southern Min migrants who arrived here adopted the name of the indigenous Taokas community, "Bali," as the place name, as its pronunciation closely resembled the sounds "Mao-li." In 1889 (the 15th year of the Guangxu reign of the Qing Dynasty), Taipei Prefecture officially designated "Miaoli"—a refined, classical rendering of the phonetic sound—as the new name for both the county and the local administrative district (bao). In the immediate aftermath of World War II, the region was administered as part of Hsinchu County. However, following the implementation of local self-government in Taiwan in 1950, Miaoli County was re-established as an independent administrative entity, and its current administrative boundaries have remained in place to this day.
Formerly known as "Sancha" or "Sanchahe," Sanyi Township is situated at the southern tip of Miaoli County. Climatically, it falls within the subtropical monsoon zone and is heavily influenced by monsoon winds; its winters are frequently shrouded in mist, earning it the moniker "The Township of Fog." The terrain is predominantly mountainous, and the region is renowned for its abundant production of tea, woodwork, and charcoal. The population is mostly Hakka, and the Hakka language serves as the primary tongue; consequently, the local tourism industry has been developed around the theme of Hakka culture. Sanyi's woodcarving industry is highly developed, earning it the distinguished title of "Taiwan's Kingdom of Woodcarving." Beyond its woodcarving and Hakka heritage, the region has also witnessed the emergence of a railway-themed tourism trend. This stems from the remnants of the old Taiwan Railway "Mountain Line"—which once traversed Sanyi—leaving behind numerous historical railway sites centered notably around Shengxing Station. In 2016, Sanyi Township received official certification as an "International Cittaslow" (Slow City) from the organization's headquarters in Italy. This certification emphasizes a philosophy of "slow food, slow travel, and slow living," aiming to promote ecological conservation, cultural preservation, and sustainable local development.
勝興客棧 Sheng Xing Ke Zhan Hakka Restaurant
苗栗縣三義鄉勝興村14鄰72號
No. 72, Neighborhood 14, Shengxing Village, Sanyi, Miaoli
當我們到達三義時，已近中午，我們到評價還不錯又有客委會及苗栗縣政府客家菜雙認證的勝興客棧吃午餐。這個充滿懷舊氛圍的餐廳，背後有一段故事。在日據時代這裏原是做鐵路貨物運輸及轉運商務。但後來遭關刀山大地震之害，商店倒塌，他們的先祖便取當時龍騰斷橋的廢棄磚瓦重建商店。所以店裏處處可見當初日式一樓半土木造的痕跡。商店重建好後又繼續經營鐵路貨物的業務。六十多年後，改成經營餐廳，並改名為勝興客棧。它們的菜色蠻傳統的。讓我印象最深的乃是竹簡上以毛筆字書寫菜名的菜單。在這裏吃飯別有一番風味。
By the time we arrived in Sanyi, it was nearly noon. We headed to Sheng Xing Ke Zhan Hakka Restaurant for lunch—a highly-rated establishment that holds dual certification for Hakka cuisine from both the Hakka Affairs Council and the Miaoli County Government. This restaurant, steeped in a nostalgic atmosphere, has quite a story behind it. During the Japanese colonial era, the site originally served as a hub for railway freight transport and transshipment operations. However, after a devastating earthquake caused the original structure to collapse, the family's ancestors utilized discarded bricks and tiles salvaged from the nearby Longteng Broken Bridge to rebuild the premises. Consequently, traces of the original Japanese-style architecture—characterized by its one-and-a-half-story, timber-and-earthen construction—can be seen throughout the interior. Upon its completion, the establishment resumed its railway freight operations. More than sixty years later, it was repurposed as a restaurant and renamed Sheng Xing Ke Zhan. The cuisine served here is quite traditional. What left the deepest impression on me was the menu, featuring dish names elegantly handwritten in calligraphy on bamboo slips. Dining here offers a truly unique and distinctive experience.
勝興車站 Shengxing Station
苗栗縣三義鄉勝興村14鄰勝興89號
No. 89, Shengxing, Neighborhood 14, Shengxing Village, Sanyi, Miaoli
吃完飯，我們在勝興車站附近逛逛，等著騎鐵道自行車。勝興車站不僅享有「西部幹線最高車站」（海拔高度達 402.326 公尺）的美譽，更標誌著這路線中地勢最為崎嶇的一段，它也以其獨特的自然風光而著稱。勝興車站建於 1906 年，原名「十六份信號場」，專以辦理列車交會運轉業務。後應地方需求於 1930 年擴展業務範圍，開始兼營客貨運輸，主要負責轉運木炭、香茅油、柑橘、桃李等各類山地特產。隨著公路交通網絡的日益完善，車站於 1983 年終止了貨運服務，轉而專注於旅客運輸。最終在 1998 年，隨著最後一班列車的駛離，「舊山線」的歷史篇章也就此畫上了完美的句點。
傳說因勝興站坐落於關刀山腳下，四周環繞著九座形似虎頭的山峰，車站的建造者們深信此地位於「虎穴」之中，因此特意在建築設計中融入了特定的防禦元素。車站的柱頭飾有八卦及尖矛的紋樣；屋簷處則裝飾著鋸齒狀的飾板。期望以堅硬的兵器來破九虎，從而達到辟邪祈福的目的。雖然這只是個傳說，但車站本身——這座採用樑柱接榫工藝、且完全未使用鐵釘建造的日式木結構建築——歷經一個多世紀的風雨，竟奇蹟般地完好保留了其最初的風貌。它堪稱台灣歷史車站建築的典範，被公認為「山線」鐵路沿線最具歷史與文化價值的車站。1999 年，苗栗縣政府正式將其指定為「縣定古蹟」。如今，這裡已蛻變為一座廣受歡迎、充滿懷舊情調的旅遊勝地。「舊山線鐵道自行車」體驗是目前最熱門的遊覽項目；遊客可以騎乘電動輔助的小火車穿越隧道，俯瞰著名的龍騰斷橋，並聆聽導覽解說，從而加深對該地歷史與文化的了解。
After our meal, we strolled around the vicinity of Shengxing Station while waiting for our turn to ride a rail bike. Shengxing Station holds the distinction of being the highest station along the Western Trunk Line (standing at an elevation of 402.326 meters), as well as marking the most rugged section of the route—one characterized by its unique natural scenery. Constructed in 1906, the station was originally named "Shiliufen Signal Station" and was dedicated exclusively to managing train crossings and switching operations. Later, in 1930—responding to local demand—it expanded its services to include passenger and freight transport, handling mountain products such as charcoal, citronella oil, citrus fruits, peaches, and plums. Following the expansion of highway networks, freight services were discontinued in 1983, and the station focused solely on passenger transport. Finally, in 1998, the last train departed, bringing the history of the "Old Mountain Line" to a perfect and definitive close.
According to legend, because Shengxing Station is situated at the foot of Guandao Mountain—surrounded by nine peaks resembling tiger heads—its builders, believing the station to be located within a "tiger's lair," incorporated specific defensive design elements into its architecture. The column capitals were specially crafted with motifs of the Bagua (Eight Trigrams) and sharp spears, while the eaves were adorned with sawtooth-shaped decorative panels. The intention behind employing these sharp, weapon-like forms was to "subdue the nine tigers," thereby warding off evil spirits and invoking blessings. Although this remains a legend, the station itself—a Japanese-style wooden structure featuring a beam-and-column joinery system constructed entirely without the use of iron nails—has remarkably retained its original appearance for over a century. It stands as a true exemplar of Taiwan's historic railway stations and is considered the most historically and culturally significant station along the "Mountain Line." In 1999, the Miaoli County Government officially designated it a "County-Level Historic Monument." Today, it has evolved into a popular, nostalgic tourist destination. The "Old Mountain Line Rail Bike" experience is currently its most sought-after attraction; visitors can ride electric-assisted rail bikes to traverse tunnels, gaze down upon the famous Longteng Broken Bridge, and enjoy guided commentary that enriches their understanding of the site's history and culture.
舊山線鐵道自行車 Old Mountain Line Rail Bike
電動輔助軌道自行車為遊客提供了獨特的體驗，讓人能夠輕鬆暢遊勝興車站與鯉魚潭之間的自然風光，同時也能欣賞有百年歷史的鐵路文化遺跡。軌道自行車體驗共設有三條各具特色的路線－A、B、C－每條路線的往返時間約 1.5 小時：
- 路線 A：從勝興車站出發，途經魚藤坪鐵橋，至南斷橋秘境－在此可登高遠眺氣勢磅礴的龍騰斷橋全景，亦可探訪幽靜隱密的南斷橋秘境。
- 路線 B：從龍騰車站出發，至勝興車站－這段旅程將帶您造訪台灣西部海拔最高的火車站，是漫步於古樸懷舊的客家老街、品嚐當地特色美食的絕佳之選。
- 路線 C：從龍騰車站出發，途經魚藤坪鐵橋與六號隧道，最終抵達鯉魚潭水庫－路線沿途景觀最為豐富多姿，不僅橫跨了高達 33 公尺的魚藤坪鐵橋，更帶領遊客深入探索設有互動光雕投影裝置的「時光隧道」。
These electric-assist rail bikes offer visitors a truly unique experience, allowing them to effortlessly tour the natural scenery between Shengxing Station and Liyu Lake while admiring century-old railway heritage sites. The Rail Bike experience consists of three distinct routes—A, B, and C—with each round-trip journey taking approximately 1.5 hours:
- Route A: Departing from Shengxing Station, travel via the Yutengping Iron Bridge to the Southern Longteng Broken Bridge Secret Spot—offering a high-altitude panoramic view of the magnificent Longteng Broken Bridge, as well as the secluded Southern Broken Bridge site.
- Route B: Departing from Longteng Station and heading to Shengxing Station—this round-trip journey takes you to the highest-elevation railway station in Western Taiwan, making it ideal for strolling along the quaint, historic Hakka Old Street and savoring local delicacies.
- Route C: Departing from Longteng Station, travel via the Yutengping Iron Bridge and Tunnel No. 6 to the Liyutan Reservoir. This route offers the richest visual variety, traversing the 33-meter-high Yutengping Iron Bridge and allowing visitors to explore the "Time Tunnel," which features interactive light projection mapping.
龍騰斷橋 Longteng Broken Bridge
龍騰舊稱「魚藤坪」。相傳早先鯉魚潭有鯉魚精危害地方，鄉民苦不堪言，為此，村民們便到處種植有毒的魚藤。，並將東面狀似青龍偃月刀刀背的山命名為關刀山，這項命名的寓意在於：借「關刀」之力斬斷魚藤，從而激發藤中劇毒，以此誅殺那條鯉魚精。最終，魚怪不再為禍，村民們自此過上了安居樂業的太平日子。第二次世界大戰結束後，村民們認為「魚藤」這一地名頗欠雅緻，遂將此地更名為「龍騰」。
龍騰斷橋（又稱魚藤坪斷橋）是一座建於 1905 年日治時期的磚造鐵路高架橋。它位於泰安站和盛興站之間的山線鐵路，橫跨魚藤坪溪，全長約 20 公尺。整個結構是採用傳統技術建造的，包括用糯米砌磚。值得注意的是，每一層磚塊的寬度皆不相同，每層磚塊都帶有特定的標記，且橋面距地面 50 公尺，使其成為山線鐵路中最高的橋樑。建造時，橋墩既沒有使用鋼筋，也沒有使用水泥，僅依靠紅磚和花崗岩塊來實現結構平衡和吸震的效果。
1935 年，一場芮氏規模高達 7.3 級的強烈地震——即「關刀山地震」——徹底摧毀了這座橋樑。由於受損極為嚴重，已無法進行修復；為了恢復南北交通，人們遂在原橋址以西約 60 公尺處，新建了一座全新的鐵橋（即如今的「魚藤坪鐵橋」）。自那時起，這些斷裂的磚拱便一直以其殘垣斷壁的姿態被保存至今。1999 年「921大地震」再次重創了這一遺址，悲劇性地將「龍騰斷橋」的第四座橋墩攔腰震斷。如今，這座斷橋遺址被劃分為南北兩側。北段仍保留著石砌的翼牆，斷裂的橋墩巍然屹立，氣勢非凡；南段緊鄰溪谷，橋體結構如今已被藤蔓纏繞覆蓋，散發著一種狂野而原始的獨特氛圍。
2000 年，行政院文化建設委員會（即今文化部的前身）將龍騰斷橋指定為震災紀念物。隨後於 2003 年，苗栗縣政府依據《文化資產保存法》，正式將它指定為縣定古蹟。
Longteng was formerly known as "Yutengping." Legend has it that, in days gone by, a carp spirit from Liyutan Lake plagued the local community, causing immense suffering to the villagers. In response, the villagers planted poisonous Derris vines (known locally as yuteng, 魚藤) throughout the area. They also named the mountain to the east—whose ridge resembled the back of Guan Yu's Green Dragon Crescent Blade (Qinglong Yanyuedao)—"Guandao Mountain." The symbolic intent behind this naming was to use the "Guandao" blade to sever the yuteng vines, thereby unleashing their poison to slay the carp spirit. Ultimately, the fish monster ceased its depredations, and the residents lived in peace and prosperity thereafter. Following World War II, the villagers deemed the name "Yuteng" inelegant and subsequently renamed the area "Longteng."
Longteng Broken Bridge (also known as Yutengping Broken Bridge) is a brick railway viaduct constructed in 1905 during the Japanese colonial era. Situated along the Mountain Line railway between Tai'an and Shengxing stations, it spans the Yutengping Stream and measures approximately 200 meters in length. The entire structure was built using a traditional technique involving glutinous rice mortar to bond the bricks. Notably, the width of the bricks varies from layer to layer—each bearing specific markings—and the bridge deck stands 50 meters above the ground, making it the tallest bridge on the Mountain Line. At the time of its construction, the bridge piers utilized neither steel reinforcement nor concrete, relying instead solely on red bricks and granite blocks to achieve structural balance and absorb seismic vibrations.
In 1935, the Guandaoshan Earthquake—a powerful magnitude 7.3 tremor—shattered the bridge. Due to the severity of the damage, restoration was impossible; consequently, to reinstate north-south transportation, an entirely new iron bridge (the present-day Yutengping Iron Bridge) was built approximately 60 meters to the west of the original structure. Since then, these fractured brick arches have been preserved in their ruined state. In 1999, the site suffered further devastation during the 921 Earthquake, which tragically snapped the fourth pier of the Longteng Broken Bridge right at its midsection. Today, the remains of the bridge are divided into northern and southern sections. The northern section still retains its stone-masonry wing walls, with the broken piers standing tall and imposing; the southern section, situated adjacent to the valley floor, features a bridge structure now entwined and enveloped by vines, exuding a wild, primal atmosphere.
The Council for Cultural Affairs of the Executive Yuan (the predecessor of today's Ministry of Culture) designated the Longteng Broken Bridge as an earthquake disaster memorial in 2000. Following this, the Miaoli County Government officially designated it a County-Level Historic Site in 2003, in accordance with the Cultural Assets Preservation Act.
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