Driving from Utah toward Oregon in August 2026, we decided to make a detour to Lava Beds National Monument in northeastern California, right near the Oregon border. Established in 1925, this park is wonderfully remote—it takes about 25 minutes along a quiet access road just to reach the visitor ceneter from the highway. But the extra drive is entirely worth it once you experience the sweeping volcanic vistas, deep solitude, and subterranean adventures waiting inside.
Lava Beds contains over 800 known caves, mostly lava tubes formed by Medicine Lake Volcano—the largest volcano by volume in the Cascade Range. Lava tubes form when the surface of a liquid basalt flow cools and hardens in the open air while molten lava continues to race underneath. Once the eruption stops and the lava drains out, a hollow tube is left behind. Over 500,000 years of volcanic activity have sculpted this landscape with cinder cones, spatter cones, and extensive black basalt flows like the Devils Homestead Flow. With its most recent eruptions occurring just around a thousand years ago, the lava flows here are geologically very young.
2026 年八月，我們在從猶他州前往俄勒岡州的途中，決定繞道去位於加州東北部、緊鄰俄勒岡州邊界的熔岩床國家紀念地。公園始建於 1925 年，地點極為偏遠──從公路轉入一條靜謐的小路後，還得再開約 25 分鐘的車程才能到遊客中心。然而，當你親眼見到那廣闊的火山地形、與世隔絕般的寧靜，並體驗到園內令人著迷的地下探險時，便會覺得這段額外的路程絕對不虛此行。
熔岩床有 800 多個已知洞穴，大部分是由梅迪遜湖火山 (Medicine Lake Volcano)（卡斯卡德山脈 (Cascade Range) 中體積最大的火山）的熔岩管形成的。當液態玄武岩流的表面在露天冷卻並硬化，而熔岩繼續在下面流動時，就會形成熔岩管/熔岩隧道。一旦噴發停止，熔岩排出，就會留下一根空心管。超過 50 萬年的火山活動塑造了這片景觀，包括火山渣錐、飛濺錐和大面積的黑色玄武岩流（如魔鬼家園流 Devils Homestead Flow）。最近一次噴發，大約在一千年前，這裡的熔岩流在地質上是非常年輕的。
What You Need to Know Before Caving 洞穴探險前的須知
Lava Beds features 27 caves with marked entrances and developed trails for public exploration. Beyond the underground world, the park also offers hiking trails across high Great Basin desert terrain filled with sagebrush and juniper.
Before heading down into the subterranean darkness, our first stop was the Visitor Center for safety guidelines and current conditions. Here are four essential steps every visitor should know:
- Get a Free Caving Permit: Cave permits are required, free, and available at the Visitor Center. Park rangers screen visitors to help prevent the spread of White-Nose Syndrome (a fungal disease deadly to hibernating bats). Permits also keep visitors informed about seasonal cave closures designed to protect roosting bat colonies.
- Bring the Right Gear & Dress Warmly:
- Lighting: Always bring at least two reliable light sources per person (flashlight and headlamp).
- Safety Protection: The terrain underground is rugged and uneven. Sturdy hiking shoes, gloves, and helmets are strongly recommended. Some ceilings drop surprisingly low—helmets can be borrowed directly from the Visitor Center!
- Layers: Cave temperatures hover around 55°F (13°C) year-round, so bring a warm jacket regardless of how hot it is outside.
- Explore Responsibly: Follow cave etiquette—never touch or disturb bats, leave no trace, carry out all trash, and use restrooms before entering the caves.
- Choose the Right Caves for Your Comfort: Review the park's cave difficulty list (ranging from Least Challenging to Most Challenging) to pick the best routes for your group size and physical comfort level.
熔岩床有 27 個洞穴，這些洞穴設有醒目的入口，並配備了完善的步道，供大眾探索。除了地底下的奇妙世界外，園區內還設有健行路線，穿越大盆地（Great Basin）的高地沙漠地帶；這裡遍佈著山艾樹 (sagebrush) 和杜松 (juniper)。
在進入地下的黑暗世界之前，我們先到遊客中心，了解安全須知及當前狀況。以下是每位遊客都應知曉的四個關鍵事項：
- 取得免費的洞穴探險許可證：進入洞穴需持有許可證（可免費在遊客中心領取）。公園巡護員會對訪客進行篩檢，以幫助防止「白鼻症候群」（一種對冬眠蝙蝠具有致命性的真菌疾病）的傳播。此外，透過許可證，訪客還能獲知洞穴的季節性關閉資訊——這些關閉措施旨在保護在此棲息的蝙蝠群落。
- 攜帶合適的裝備並注意保暖：
- 照明：每人務必至少攜帶兩個可靠的光源（手電筒和頭燈）。
- 安全防護：地下地形崎嶇不平。強烈建議穿戴結實的健行鞋、手套和頭盔。部分區域的頂部高度極低－您可在遊客中心借用安全帽！
- 衣物穿搭：洞穴內全年氣溫維持在約 55°F（13°C）左右，因此無論洞外天氣多麼炎熱，都請帶上一件保暖外套。
- 負責任地探索：請遵守洞穴遊覽規範－切勿觸碰或驚擾蝙蝠；實踐「無痕旅遊」原則，帶走所有垃圾；進入洞穴前，請先使用洗手間。
- 選擇適合您的洞穴：請查看公園提供的洞穴難度清單（從「最簡單」到「最具挑戰性」不等），根據您團隊的人數以及舒適度偏好，選擇最合適的路線。
The Caves We Explored 我們探索過的洞穴
- Mushpot Cave 馬什波特洞穴/蘑菇鍋洞穴
Located just 500 feet from the Visitor Center, Mushpot Cave is classified as one of the park’s Least Challenging Caves and serves as the perfect introduction to underground exploration. It is the only illuminated cave in the monument, featuring paved walkways and interpretive signs detailing cave geology, ecology, and climate.
Formed by smooth pahoehoe lava flows tens of thousands of years ago, this 770-foot-long tube offers a fascinating glimpse into the earth. Even with built-in lighting, bringing an extra flashlight and watching your head is crucial. The ceiling dips low in several spots—my husband even bumped his head right after warning me to be careful! Despite the low clearance, stepping into the cool darkness was a thrilling and unique start to our visit.
馬什波特洞穴距離遊客中心僅 500 英尺，被列為公園內「難度最低」的洞穴之一，是開始地下探索之旅的絕佳起點。它是該保護區內唯一設有照明設施的洞穴，內部舖設有步道，並配有解說牌，詳細介紹了洞穴的地質、生態和氣候狀況。
這條長 770 英尺（約 235 公尺）的熔岩隧道由數萬年前平滑的繩狀熔岩流(「帕霍霍」（pahoehoe）熔岩流)形成，為人們提供了一個深入了解地球內部的絕佳窗口。雖然隧道內設有照明設施，但最好還是額外帶上一支手電筒，並時刻注意頭部——隧道多處頂部低矮，我先生在提醒我要小心之後，他自己反而撞到了頭！僅管空間狹窄低矮，但步入那片清涼的黑暗之中，仍然為我們的遊覽開啟了一段既刺激又獨特的旅程。
Location: Mushpot Cave
- Labyrinth Cave 迷宮洞窟 & Lava Brook Cave 熔岩河洞
Located near the Visitor Center loop, Labyrinth Cave (1,239 ft long) and Lava Brook Cave (859 ft long) are connected by a twisting, low-ceiling segment that requires tight crawling. Because both are rated as Most Challenging, we opted to admire their rugged volcanic openings from the entrances and take photos before moving on.
迷宮洞窟（長 1239 英尺）和熔岩河洞（長 859 英尺）位於遊客中心環路附近，兩者之間由一段蜿蜒且低矮的通道相連，通過時需要費力地匍匐爬行。由於這兩個洞穴都被列為「最具挑戰性」等級，我們決定僅在洞口欣賞其粗獷的火山岩入口並拍照留念，隨後便繼續往下一景點去了。
Location: Labyrinth Cave
Location: Lava Brook Cave
- Catacombs Cave 墓穴溶洞
Stretching 6,903 feet, Catacombs Cave is one of the longest and most complex lava tube systems in the park. Accessible via the Cave Loop Road, it begins easily with high ceilings near the entrance. However, past the first 800 feet, ceiling clearance drops to under 3 feet (0.9 m), with certain tight squeezes measuring under 12 inches (30 cm). Due to its multi-level structure and branching passages, a detailed map and previous caving experience are strongly advised. We took in the view from the entrance, struck by the immense depth of the subterranean network.
墓穴溶洞全長 6903 英尺（約 2104 公尺），是公園內最長、最複雜的熔岩管系統之一。遊客可經由「洞穴環路」（Cave Loop Road）前往；洞穴入口處空間開闊，頂部較高，進入較為輕鬆。然而，在深入約 800 英尺（約 244 公尺）後，洞頂高度便降至 3 英尺（0.9 公尺）以下，部分狹窄路段甚至不到 12 英吋（30 公分）。鑑於此洞穴結構呈多層分佈且通道錯綜複雜，強烈建議攜帶詳細地圖，並具備一定的洞穴探險經驗。我們站在入口處向內眺望，被這片地下網絡所展現出的驚人深度深深震撼。
Location: Catacombs Cave
Historical & Cultural Significance: The Modoc War 歷史與文化意義：莫多克戰爭
The Modoc people have inhabited this volcanic landscape for thousands of years. During the Modoc War of 1872–1873, a leader named Kintpuash (Captain Jack) led a band of around 50 to 60 Modoc warriors and their families to hold off a U.S. Army force of up to 1,000 soldiers for five months. Operating from a natural lava citadel now known as Captain Jack’s Stronghold, the Modoc utilized natural basalt trenches, sharp rocks, and hidden caves to defend their position. It remains one of the most remarkable conflicts between Native Americans and the U.S. Military in California history.
Walking through the jagged trenches of Captain Jack’s Stronghold, it was difficult to comprehend how the Modoc families survived in such harsh, sharp rock terrain for months. Learning about their struggle sparked deep reflection on the displacement and injustices experienced by Indigenous peoples worldwide—whether in North America, Taiwan, or beyond—where smaller communities historically faced overwhelming pressures from powerful forces.
莫多克族人在這片火山地形上已居住了數千年。在 1872 年至 1873 年間的「莫多克戰爭」中，一位名叫金特普阿什（Kintpuash，又稱「傑克戰士長」/Captain Jack）的領袖，率領了約 50 至 60 名莫多克戰士及其家屬，成功抵禦了多達 1000 名美國陸軍士兵長達五個月的進攻。他們靠著一處天然的熔岩堡壘——即如今被稱為「傑克戰士長據點」（Captain Jack’s Stronghold）的地方——利用天然的玄武岩溝壑、尖銳的岩石以及隱蔽的洞穴進行防守。這是加州歷史上美洲原住民與美國軍隊之間最引人注目的戰鬥之一。
走在「傑克戰士長據點」那崎嶇不平的戰壕中，實在難以想像莫多克族人是如何在如此嚴酷、岩石尖銳的地形中生存了數月之久。了解他們所經歷的掙扎，引發了我對世界各地原住民——無論是在北美、台灣還是其他地區——所遭受的流離失所與不公待遇的深刻反思；在歷史上，這些弱勢群體往往承受著來自強大勢力所施加的巨大壓力。
The Peace Commission & Aftermath 和平委員會及其後續影響
In April 1873, President Ulysses S. Grant dispatched a Peace Commission to negotiate an end to the conflict under a flag of truce. On April 11, 1873, negotiations broke down after demands for a Modoc reservation along the Lost River were denied. Captain Jack and his warriors opened fire, resulting in the deaths of General Edward Canby and Reverend Eleazer Thomas. General Canby remains the only U.S. Army general killed during the Indian Wars. Following an intensive army search, Captain Jack was captured and executed, and the surviving Modoc people were forcibly relocated to Oklahoma.
1873 年四月，格蘭特總統 (Ulysses S. Grant) 派遣了一個「和平委員會」，在休戰旗幟下進行談判，試圖結束衝突。 1873 年 4 月 11 日，由於莫多克人要求在「失落河」（Lost River）沿岸設立保留地的訴求遭到拒絕，談判宣告破裂。傑克戰士長及其戰士隨即開火，導致坎比（Edward Canby）將軍和托馬斯（Eleazer Thomas）牧師喪生。坎比將軍也是在「印地安戰爭」期間唯一陣亡的美國陸軍將軍。經過軍隊的全力搜捕，傑克戰士長被俘並被處決，倖存的莫多克人則被強行遷往俄克拉荷馬州。
Petroglyph Point 岩畫點
Our final stop was Petroglyph Point, situated on a towering volcanic tuff cliff that once stood as an island in ancient Tule Lake. The soft rock face contains over 5,000 carved symbols, marking one of the highest concentrations of Native American rock art in North America.
It was a scorching hot summer day when we visited. As I walked along the fence protecting the cliff face, the brilliant sun made some carvings subtle to spot, but the air was filled with the lively sound of birds chirping overhead. The cliff face serves as a vital sanctuary for nesting prairie falcons, swallows, and owls, adding vibrant life to the ancient stone.
我們此行的最後一站是「岩畫點」。它坐落在一座高聳的火山凝灰岩懸崖上，這懸崖在遠古時期的圖爾湖（Tule Lake）中曾是一座島嶼。在這片質地較軟的岩壁上，刻有 5,000 多個標誌；這裡也是北美原住民岩畫最密集的地點之一。
我們去的時候，正值酷熱的夏天。我沿著保護崖壁的圍欄前行，在烈日的映照下，有些岩刻變得難以辨認；而頭頂上方，清脆的鳥鳴聲此起彼伏，不絕於耳。這面崖壁是草原隼、燕子和貓頭鷹築巢的重要棲息地，為這座古老的岩石增添了勃勃生機。
Final Thoughts 結語
Exploring Lava Beds National Monument was an unforgettable experience. Stepping inside raw lava tubes, standing where historical battles unfolded, and witnessing ancient rock art created a journey unlike any other national park we’ve visited. If you enjoy geological wonders, quiet landscapes, and rich history, Lava Beds is well worth the journey.
探索熔岩床國家紀念地是一次難忘的體驗。走進原始的熔岩隧道，佇立於昔日戰場的遺址之上，親眼見證古老的岩畫——這段旅程與我們造訪過的其他任何國家公園都截然不同。如果你鍾情於地質奇觀、靜謐的自然風光以及深厚的歷史底蘊，那麼熔岩床國家紀念地絕對值得一遊。
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