苗栗縣位於臺灣中部。從台北開車過去，通常 1 到 1.5 小時即可到達。2026 年 5 月 1 日勞工節，我們 6 對夫婦相邀一起出遊， 誰知交通阻塞，竟花了 3 小時才到達苗栗。原本要先去三義鄉勝興車站，也只好取消了。我們決定先去銅鑼鄉好客公園。
記憶中，這可能是我第二次到苗栗來，我想先了解苗栗以及今天要去的銅鑼鄉。
苗栗縣東倚雪山山脈，西濱臺灣海峽。縣內轄有 18 個鄉鎮市。全縣地勢崎嶇且多山地阻隔，故有「山城」之別稱。居民主要族群為客家人。依據考古學家的研究，苗栗地區在史前時期已有先民在此地生活。一千多年以前，原住民平埔族道卡斯族移居此地。自17世紀中葉起，漢人開始移入屯墾，最初遷移至此的客家人與閩南人便以道卡斯族巴利社的社名，其音近似貓狸之發音作為地名。清光緒 15年（1889年）臺北府以近音雅字苗栗，作為新的縣名及堡名。二次大戰後初期屬新竹縣之一部，1950 年臺灣施行地方自治後，苗栗縣恢復設置，其行政區域沿用至今。
銅鑼鄉舊稱「銅鑼灣」，位於苗栗縣的中南部。因為聚落建造於三面環山的弧形山麓，地形類似樂器銅鑼，故有此稱。 氣候屬於副熱帶季風氣候， 溫和多雨，雨季主要在5月至9月。人口以客家人為主要族群，約佔 94.5%。銅鑼鄉素有「花之鄉」的美譽，依季節綻放不同的花海，春季（4-5月) 時可欣賞滿山遍野的油桐花，也是客家桐花祭的重點區域。秋季（11月）時則有著名的杭菊季 。
Miaoli County is located in central Taiwan. Driving there from Taipei typically takes between one and one and a half hours. On May 1, 2026—Labor Day—our group of six couples arranged a joint outing; however, due to heavy traffic congestion, it took us a full three hours to finally reach Miaoli. Consequently, we had to cancel our original plan to first visit Shengxing Station in Sanyi Township. Instead, we decided to head straight to the Hakka Park in Tongluo Township.
As far as I recall, this is only my second time visiting Miaoli, so I would like to start by getting to know the region—specifically Tongluo Township, where I am headed today.
Miaoli County is bordered by the Xueshan Mountain Range to the east and the Taiwan Strait to the west. The county comprises 18 townships and cities. Due to its rugged terrain and prevalent mountainous barriers, it has earned the nickname "Mountain City." The primary ethnic group among its residents is the Hakka people. According to archaeological research, early inhabitants were already living in the Miaoli region during the prehistoric era. Over a thousand years ago, the Taokas—an indigenous Pingpu tribe—migrated to and settled in this area. Beginning in the mid-17th century, Han Chinese settlers began migrating into the region to establish settlements. The early Hakka and Southern Min migrants who arrived here adopted the name of the indigenous Taokas community, "Bali," as the place name, as its pronunciation closely resembled the sounds "Mao-li." In 1889 (the 15th year of the Guangxu reign of the Qing Dynasty), Taipei Prefecture officially designated "Miaoli"—a refined, classical rendering of the phonetic sound—as the new name for both the county and the local administrative district (bao). In the immediate aftermath of World War II, the region was administered as part of Hsinchu County. However, following the implementation of local self-government in Taiwan in 1950, Miaoli County was re-established as an independent administrative entity, and its current administrative boundaries have remained in place to this day.
Tongluo Township, formerly known as "Tongluowan," is situated in the south-central region of Miaoli County. The settlement derives its name from its topography: it is built upon a curved mountain slope encircled on three sides by hills, creating a terrain that resembles the shape of a gong ("Tongluo"). The township experiences a subtropical monsoon climate characterized by mild temperatures and abundant rainfall, with the rainy season primarily occurring between May and September. The population is predominantly Hakka, comprising approximately 94.5% of the residents. Tongluo Township enjoys a reputation as the "Land of Flowers," featuring vibrant floral displays that bloom in succession throughout the seasons. In the spring (April–May), visitors can admire hillsides blanketed in Tung blossoms—a spectacle that makes the area a central focus of the annual Hakka Tung Blossom Festival. In the autumn (November), the township hosts its renowned Hangju Chrysanthemum Festival.
好客公園 Haoke Park/Hakka Hospitality Garden
苗栗銅鑼鄉銅科南路 6 號
No. 6, Tongke South Road, Tongluo Township, Miaoli
好客公園位在台灣客家文化館的北方，占地 6.88 公頃。公園有生態池、綠林步道，還有木棧道及鵝卵石步道。這裏保有豐富的中北部傳統客庄丘陵生態樹種，除了油桐樹、相思樹與苦楝樹外，更植有楓香、光臘樹以及多種蜜源植物，還設置生態陶缸區，提供蝴蝶及蛙類等生物生長與棲息環境，有助於生態多樣發展。當 4-5 月油桐花盛開時，會吸引不少遊客來賞花。
Haoke Park is situated north of the Taiwan Hakka Cultural Center and covers an area of 6.88 hectares. The park features an ecological pond, wooded trails, wooden boardwalks, and pebble pathways. It preserves a rich variety of native tree species characteristic of the traditional Hakka hilly landscapes found in central and northern Taiwan; in addition to Tung trees, Taiwan Acacia, and Beadtree, the park is planted with Chinese Sweetgum, Formosan Ash, and various nectar-bearing plants. Furthermore, a bioactive vivarium area has been established to provide a habitat and breeding ground for creatures such as butterflies and frogs, thereby fostering ecological diversity. During April and May, when the Tung blossoms are in full bloom, the park attracts a great number of visitors coming to admire the flowers.
油桐 Tung tree
油桐因其種子富含油脂，可榨取供工業用，故名之。臺灣並沒有原生的油桐屬植物，而是在日據時代為了利用其種子油與木材，才自中國大陸等地引進栽培。臺灣最常見的油桐乃是指有「千年桐」之稱的木油桐（Vernicia montana ），又稱廣東油桐或皺桐 (果實表面佈滿縐紋) 。因為可以持續生產油桐子的年份較多(故有千年桐之稱)，因此栽種的範圍最廣，數量最多。 現今榨油桐子這項傳統產業雖已沒落，但油桐花盛開時純白如雪，當花瓣隨風飄落或整朵掉落時，會將山林小徑鋪成一片白茫茫的雪景，因此得名「五月雪」。 隨之而來的是其觀光價值。油桐樹過去是客家族群重要的經濟作物。桐花祭不僅是賞花，更是為了向山神與大自然表達敬意與感恩。2002 年起政府便擴大舉辦客家桐花祭來結合客家文化、生態旅遊與地方創生的大型觀光慶典。至今在桐花季節，全台各地皆有豐富的賞花路徑與文化體驗。
另外有趣的是，油桐的雄花花柄細而易斷，花謝時會整朵花連著花柄掉落，而雌花則是花瓣一片一片的掉落，中心的雌蕊留下來發育為果實。但是如果你仔細觀察，就會發現我們看到遍地雪白的桐花，幾乎都是完整的一朵朵雄花，而很少一瓣瓣的雌花花瓣。原來油桐還有另一個特徵：雌花的花量較少，一個枝條大概不會超過十朵花，而雄花的一個枝條則可達上百朵！
The Tung tree derives its name from its seeds, which are rich in oil that can be extracted for industrial use. Taiwan has no native species of the Vernicia genus; rather, these trees were introduced and cultivated during the Japanese colonial era specifically for their seed oil and timber. The most common Tung tree found in Taiwan is Vernicia montana—known locally as the "Thousand-Year Tung"—which is also referred to as the Guangdong Tung or the "Wrinkled Tung" (due to the wrinkled texture of its fruit). Because this particular species remains productive, yielding Tung seeds for a significantly longer period than others (hence the moniker "Thousand-Year Tung"), it is the most widely planted and abundant variety on the island. Although the traditional industry of extracting oil from Tung seeds has declined, the tree's blossoms remain a spectacular sight; when in full bloom, they appear as pure white as snow. As the petals drift down in the breeze—or when entire blossoms drop to the ground—they blanket the mountain trails and forest paths in a pristine white carpet, earning the phenomenon the poetic name "May Snow." This natural spectacle has, in turn, generated significant tourism value. Historically, the Tung tree served as a vital economic crop for Taiwan's Hakka community. Consequently, the annual Tung Blossom Festival is not merely an occasion for flower viewing; it is, more profoundly, a time to express reverence and gratitude to the Mountain Spirits and to Nature itself. Since 2002, the government has expanded the scope of the Hakka Tung Blossom Festival, transforming it into a major tourism celebration that seamlessly integrates Hakka culture, eco-tourism, and local revitalization initiatives. Today, during the Tung blossom season, visitors across Taiwan can enjoy a wealth of scenic viewing trails and immersive cultural experiences.
Another interesting detail is that the stalks of the male Tung blossoms are slender and fragile; consequently, when the flowers mature, the entire bloom—stalk and all—falls to the ground. The female blossoms, in contrast, shed their petals one by one, leaving the central pistil behind to develop into fruit. However, if you observe closely, you will notice that the blanket of snowy-white Tung blossoms covering the ground consists almost entirely of intact male flowers, with very few scattered petals from the female flowers. As it turns out, the Tung tree possesses yet another distinctive trait: female blossoms are produced in much smaller quantities—typically no more than ten per branch—whereas a single branch of male blossoms can bear hundreds.
相思樹 Taiwan Acacia
我們 2026 年 5 月 1 日去的時候，地面上僅零星散落著幾朵飄落的油桐花；取而代之的是，放眼望去，處處皆是一片金黃花海的相思樹——這種樹通常在每年的五月至七月間開花。台灣相思樹生長迅速，木質堅硬，且具有極強的耐火性，因此是製作木炭的理想樹種。相思木炭熱量大，燃燒均勻且不易爆火星，產生的煙霧不刺眼；在天然氣和電力尚未普及的年代，它曾是一種極佳的燃料來源。
然而製炭是件極為艱辛的差事，整個燒製過程往往長達數週之久。所以木炭窯旁常會搭建一座簡易工寮，供輪班看守的工人棲身。若由夫妻輪流看守，他們的作息時間往往難以同步，致使兩人鮮有機會共處——具有諷刺意味的是，這一現實竟恰恰與「相思」二字的本意不謀而合，因為「相思」一詞正是「思念」或「渴盼」的代名詞。
如今，雖然木炭已不再是主要的燃料來源，但相思樹的地位卻發生了根本性的轉變。憑藉其龐大的根系，加之能與根瘤菌建立共生關係以固氮——從而兼具水土保持與改良土壤的雙重功效——這種樹木已從一種曾被砍伐用於製造排放碳的燃料資源，轉變為一種至關重要的植樹造林樹種，在固碳與土地保育方面發揮著舉足輕重的作用。
When we visited on May 1, 2026, we saw only a scattering of fallen Tung blossoms on the ground; instead, everywhere we looked, we beheld a golden sea of Taiwan Acacia trees—a species that typically blooms between May and July. Taiwan Acacias are fast-growing, possess hard timber, and are highly fire-resistant, making them ideally suited for charcoal production. Acacia charcoal boasts a high calorific value, burns evenly without sparking, and produces smoke that is non-irritating to the eyes; prior to the widespread adoption of natural gas and electricity, it served as an excellent fuel source.
However, charcoal production is an extremely arduous undertaking, and the entire firing process spans several weeks. Consequently, a makeshift shelter would typically be erected beside the charcoal kiln to house the workers standing watch. If a married couple took turns guarding the kiln, their schedules would rarely align, leaving them unable to spend much time together—a reality that, ironically, aligns quite fittingly with the very meaning of xiangsi (acacia), a word synonymous with "yearning" or "longing."
Today, although charcoal is no longer a primary fuel source, the acacia tree has undergone a transformation in status. Possessing an extensive root system and engaging in a symbiotic relationship with rhizobia bacteria to fix nitrogen—thereby serving the dual functions of soil and water conservation and soil enrichment—it has shifted from a resource once harvested for carbon-emitting fuel to a vital reforestation species, instrumental in carbon sequestration and land conservation.
臺灣客家文化館 Taiwan Hakka Cultural Center
苗栗縣銅鑼鄉銅科南路 6 號
No. 6, Tongke S Rd, Jiuhu, Tongluo Township, Miaoli
台灣客家文化中心緊鄰好客公園，兩者之間僅需步行 15 至 20 分鐘。它們都是坐落於苗栗銅鑼科學園區內的九湖台地之上。台灣客家文化中心於 2012 年在客家委員會的推動下正式開館，館內舉辦豐富多元的展覽，全面展現了客家的歷史與文化。中心設施完備，擁有寬敞的展覽館、客家圖書資料中心、國際會議廳、多媒體影音劇場以及其他各類室內設施，現已成為台灣北部地區推廣客家文化的核心樞紐。
可惜我們沒訂到好客餐廳的座位；鑑於在附近餐館享用午餐的預定時間將至，我們只在附近的好客行寮 (禮品店) 及步道上逛逛。
The Taiwan Hakka Cultural Center is situated right next to Haoke Park, just a 15-to-20-minute walk away. Both venues are located on the Jiuhu Terrace within the Tongluo Science Park in Miaoli. Opened in 2012 under the auspices of the Hakka Affairs Council, the Taiwan Hakka Cultural Center offers a wealth of exhibitions showcasing Hakka history and culture. Featuring spacious exhibition halls, a Hakka library and resource center, an international conference hall, a multimedia theater, and other indoor facilities, it serves as a pivotal hub for the promotion of Hakka culture in Northern Taiwan.
Unfortunately, we were unable to secure a reservation at the Haoke Restaurant, and with the scheduled lunch time at a nearby eatery fast approaching, we simply spent our time browsing the nearby Haoke Pavilions (gift shop) and strolling along the trails.
連記甘味音樂花園餐廳
苗栗縣銅鑼鄉九湖村 5 鄰 40 號
No. 40, Neighborhood 5, Jiuhu, Tongluo Township, Miaoli
連記甘味音樂花園餐廳坐落於一座經過精心翻修的傳統三合院中。餐廳的用餐區域分佈於兩處：一樓設有玻璃屋以及包廂；二層則是有數個大圓桌的團體用餐區。這裡遠不止是一家傳統的餐廳，其鄰近的廂房內還設有一家禮品店，供應各式甜點、手工醬料、冷凍即食餐品、飲品及數種拌手禮。在院落之外，另有一座獨立建築有歐式莊園般的優雅氛圍；建築旁還附設有一座小花園與涼亭，是賓客休憩放鬆、留影紀念的絕佳去處。
根據該餐廳網站介紹，「連記甘味」這家店名取自創辦人——父親陳添連與母親彭育甘——的名字。他們的願景遠不止於單純地開設一家餐廳；而是想借之延續家族情誼，並與食客們分享這種家庭凝聚力，以及客家人「厚禮數」的傳統——即「等路（伴手禮）」的習俗。
我們一行十二人點了一份 6,000 新台幣的套餐，其中的主打招牌菜正是該店的鎮店之寶——「百年祖傳封鴨」。這道「炐鴨」的製作工序極為考究，需經過長達十二小時的慢燉與清蒸，直至湯汁完全收乾，最終呈現出一種風味絕倫的極緻美味。待我們享用完大部分鴨肉後，店員將剩餘的鴨架收回，將其改製成了一鍋熱氣騰騰的火鍋湯底——這一別出心裁的安排令人倍感驚喜。套餐中的其他菜餚也同樣美味可口。用餐期間，我留意到一位男士——身穿印有花卉圖案的南洋風情襯衫，頭戴一頂草帽——穿梭於各餐桌之間，與食客們親切互動。起初我誤以為他是隨同另一組客人前來的導遊，後來才得知他竟是這家餐廳的老闆本人；他談吐風趣幽默，待人熱情真誠，正忙著向顧客們熱情推薦店裡的特色菜品。
LJGW-Garden Restaurant is situated within a beautifully renovated traditional three-section compound. The dining areas are divided between a glass-enclosed room and private booths on the ground floor, while the second floor features a group dining area furnished with several large round tables. Far more than just a conventional eatery, the compound also houses a gift shop in an adjacent wing, offering an assortment of desserts, artisanal sauces, frozen ready-to-eat meals, beverages, and various souvenirs. Outside the compound, a separate structure has been built to evoke the ambiance of a European manor, complete with an adjoining small garden and a pavilion—perfect spots for guests to relax and take photographs.
According to the restaurant's website, the name "Lian Ji Gan Wei" is derived from the names of the founders—father Chen Tianlian and mother Peng Yugan. Their vision extended beyond simply opening a restaurant; rather, they sought to use it as a means to perpetuate family bonds and to share with their guests both this sense of familial cohesion and the Hakka tradition of hou lisu—the practice of offering denglu (thoughtful gifts or souvenirs).
Our group of twelve ordered a set menu priced at 6,000 NTD, which featured the establishment's signature dish: the "Centennial Ancestral Braised Duck." This braised duck is prepared through a meticulous process of slow-stewing and steaming for twelve hours until the juices have fully reduced; the result is a dish of exquisite flavor. Once we had finished most of the meat, the staff took the remaining duck to transform it into a hot pot soup—a rather unique touch. The other dishes were equally delicious. During our meal, we noticed a man—clad in a floral "Nanyang-style" shirt and wearing a straw hat—making his rounds among the tables, interacting with the guests. We initially assumed he was a tour guide accompanying another party, but we later learned that he was actually the restaurant's owner; he was a lively and engaging conversationalist, busily going about recommending dishes to the patrons.
銅鑼莫內秘密花園 Monet Secret Garden
苗栗縣銅鑼鄉新隆村新隆 138-3 號
No. 138-3, Xinlong, Tongluo Township, Miaoli
銅鑼莫內秘密花園是一座專為婚紗攝影及美拍而設計的園區，其整體構思取材自克勞德·莫內（Claude Monet）的印象派藝術風格。園區內有超過 50 種主題造景－從歐式城堡、仿京都風情的傳統街景，到潔白無瑕的玻璃教堂，應有盡有。門票每人 300 新台幣，門票不可用於抵扣園內的消費。在這裏遊客可以隨心所欲地自由拍照，處處都可看到遊客搔首弄姿，找最美的視角，留下那明豔動人的美照。園區內也有攝影師分散在每一區，專門為遊客提供免費拍照服務——我們便充分利用了這項服務，拍攝了一些充滿樂趣的合照。
Tongluo Monet Secret Garden is a park designed specifically for wedding photography and aesthetic photo shoots, conceptualized around the Impressionist artistic style of Claude Monet. The grounds feature over 50 distinct themed settings—ranging from European-style castles and traditional Kyoto-esque streets to a pristine white glass chapel. Admission is 300 NTD per person, and the ticket price cannot be redeemed against purchases within the park. Visitors are free to take photos at their leisure; indeed, everywhere you look, guests can be seen striking poses and searching for the perfect angles to capture stunning, vibrant images. Photographers are also stationed throughout the park to take complimentary photos for visitors—a service we took full advantage of to capture some fun group shots of our own.
洪鼎宴餐廳 Hong Ding Yan Restaurant
新竹縣竹北市中興里文興路一段 260 號
No. 260, Section 1, Wenxing Road, Zhongxing Village, Zhubei City, Hsinchu County
在回台北之前，晚上我們又到竹北吃晚餐。這家餐廰的菜很特別，也非常好吃。服務也很好。強烈推薦。
Before heading back to Taipei, we had dinner in Zhubei. The food at the restaurant was both unique and delicious, and the service was outstanding. I highly recommend it.
Travel/Point of Interest Posts 旅遊景點帖子
World Through My Eyes (Photographs) Posts/我鏡頭裏的世(視)界帖子