Suizenji Jojuen Garden 水前寺成趣園
我們在九州的最後一天，迎來了綿綿細雨。但這場雨卻為熊本市增添了寧靜祥和的氛圍。在九州的最後一個上午，我們去了水前寺成趣園。
即使在陰沉的天空下，這座花園依然美得令人驚艷。水前寺由細川氏於 17 世紀建造，是一座「回遊式」庭園，模仿了江戶時代連接江戶與京都的「東海道五十三次」沿途的著名景觀，將日本各地的名勝縮小呈現於庭園之中。庭園之名取自中國東晉詩人陶淵明的《歸去來兮辭》中「園日涉以成趣」一句。其中最引人注目的便是那座完美的錐形小山，象徵迷你富士山（築山）。
雨水似乎讓精心修剪的樹木和苔蘚的綠色顯得更加濃鬱茂盛。由阿蘇山清澈泉水匯聚而成的大池塘，被雨滴輕輕蕩漾，泛起層層漣漪。我們沿著環形步道漫步，欣賞錦鯉在清澈見底的池水中悠然游來游去。在日本的最後一天，透過雨幕眺望迷你富士山，別有一番詩意。
Our final day in Kyushu arrived with a gentle, steady rain. The rain gave the city of Kumamoto a quiet, peaceful atmosphere. For our last morning, we made our way to Suizenji Jojuen Garden.
Even under a gray sky, the garden was stunning. Built in the 17th century by the Hosokawa clan, Suizenji is a "stroll-style" garden designed to imitate famous landscapes along the "Tokaido Fifty-Three Stations," which connected Edo and Kyoto during the Edo period, and presents miniature versions of famous scenic spots from all over Japan in the garden. The most recognizable feature is the perfectly cone-shaped hill that represents Mount Fuji.
The rain seemed to make the greens of the meticulously manicured trees and the moss look even deeper and more lush. The large pond, fed by clean spring water from Mount Aso, was covered in delicate ripples from the raindrops. We walked along the circular path, watching the koi fish swim lazily in the crystal-clear water. There was something very poetic about seeing mini "Mount Fuji" through a veil of rain on our very last day in Japan.
花園北側坐落著建於 1878 年的出水神社。它的建成時間意義非凡——就在薩摩叛亂/西南戰爭席捲熊本縣一年後。令人驚訝的是，據說在叛亂期間，驍勇善戰的薩摩武士曾將花園中那座迷你的富士山作為砲台，架設大砲。如今，看到這座寧靜的山丘，很難想像它曾經是戰場。
為花園增添永恆之美的還有那些古老的松樹。這些並非普通的樹木；它們最初是由細川忠利大人親自栽培為盆景的，並長成了我們今天看到的雄偉形態。
To the north of the garden sits Izumi Shrine, established in 1878. Its timing is significant—it was built just one year after the Satsuma Rebellion devastated much of Kumamoto. It was fascinating to learn that during the rebellion, the fierce Satsuma samurai allegedly used the garden’s miniature Mount Fuji as a strategic position for their cannons. Seeing that peaceful hill today, it’s hard to imagine it as a site of battle.
Adding to the garden's timeless beauty are the ancient pine trees. These weren't just ordinary trees; they were originally cultivated as bonsai by the lord Hosokawa Tadatoshi himself and have grown into the majestic shapes we see today.
鳥居是日本傳統的入口，標誌著神社的入口，象徵從世俗「人間」到神聖「神域」的過渡。穿過鳥居可以淨化心靈，象徵進入聖地，它也起到屬靈結界的作用。鳥居通常以簡潔醒目的木質或石質圖案為特色，朱紅色是常用的顏色，寓意驅邪避兇。
A torii gate is a traditional Japanese gateway marking the entrance to a Shinto shrine, symbolizing the transition from the mundane, profane world to the sacred realm of the gods (kami). Passing through it purifies individuals, signifying they are entering holy ground, and it serves as a spiritual boundary, often featuring simple, striking designs in wood or stone, with vermilion being a common color to ward off evil.
蹲踞（Tsukubai）在日語中意為「蹲伏的碗」或「彎腰的盆」，源自動詞“tsukubau”（蹲伏/鞠躬），指的是一種用於潔淨手口的低矮石盆，傳統上供客人進入茶室或寺廟時使用，象徵著在神聖儀式前保持謙卑和純潔。它是日本庭園中的重要元素，通常由石頭製成，並配有竹勺，引導訪客彎腰以示尊敬。
Tsukubai (蹲踞) means "crouching bowl" or "stooping basin" in Japanese, deriving from the verb tsukubau (to crouch/bow) and refers to a low stone basin for ritual purification of hands and mouth, traditionally used by guests entering tea houses or temples, symbolizing humility and purity before sacred acts. It's a key feature in Japanese gardens, usually stone, with a bamboo ladle, encouraging visitors to stoop low as a sign of respect.
日文中，「繪馬」字面意思是「圖畫馬」，指的是人們在小木牌上寫下祈禱、願望或感謝，然後將它們掛在神社或寺廟裡，供神靈（kami）接受。
In Japanese, Ema (絵馬) literally means "picture horse" and refers to small wooden plaques where people write prayers, wishes, or thanks and hang them at Shinto shrines or Buddhist temples for the deities (kami) to receive.
日式石燈籠，日文稱作「燈籠」（tōrō），意為「光之籃」，象徵著啟蒙、指引和款待。它起源於佛教寺廟，寓意光明驅散邪惡；後演變為日式庭園的元素，代表五行，並以其自然的歲月痕跡和質樸之美體現侘寂之美。石燈籠既可作為精神供品，也可作為路標與裝飾焦點，在神聖與世俗空間中融合自然與寧靜。
A Japanese stone lantern, or tōrō (灯籠), means "light basket" and symbolizes enlightenment, guidance, and hospitality, originating from Buddhist temples where light dispels evil, evolving into elements of Japanese gardens representing the five cosmic elements, and embodying wabi-sabi beauty through their natural aging and simplicity. They serve as spiritual offerings, path markers, and decorative focal points, blending nature and serenity in sacred and secular spaces.
「長壽之水」是來自阿蘇火山系統的硬水。在日本文化中，「長壽之水」與返老還童的神話和淨化儀式緊密相連。據說，肥後細川家第二代家主細川忠興將這口石製水池命名為「家」，並將其置於自家花園中，每日飲用。
"Water of Longevity" This water is hard water from the Aso volcanic system. "Water of Longevity" in Japanese culture connects to myths of rejuvenation, purification rituals. It is said that the stone water basin was named "Ie" (house) by Hosokawa Tadaoki, the second lord of the Higo Hosokawa family, who had it placed in his garden and enjoyed it every day.
再往前走一小段路，就到了稻荷神社。神社那醒目的朱紅色鳥居在雨天的映襯下格外引人注目。這座神社供奉著豐收之神，給人一種祈求繁榮昌盛的感覺。雖然我們是在四月中旬造訪的，但我可以想像，在早春時節，附近那四棵梅樹盛開時該是多麼美麗。
水前寺成趣園的稻荷神社供奉稻荷神，這位神道教的稻米之神掌管豐收、繁榮和商業，是京都著名的伏見稻荷大社的分社。神社以其標誌性的朱紅色鳥居和狐狸雕像而聞名，象徵著豐收和好運。這裡是祈求五穀豐登、家庭和睦、事業成功的場所。
A short walk further led us to the Inari Shrine, its striking vermilion torii gates standing out against the rainy sky. Dedicated to the god of the harvest, it felt like a sanctuary of prosperity. Although we were there in mid-April, I could imagine how beautiful the four plum trees nearby must look when they are in full bloom during the early spring.
The Inari Shrine in Suizenji Jojuen Garden is dedicated to Inari, the Shinto god of rice, harvests, prosperity, and business, serving as a branch of Kyoto's famous Fushimi Inari Shrine, marked by its iconic vermilion torii gates and fox statues, symbolizing blessings for abundance and good fortune. It's a place for praying for bountiful harvests, household well-being, and success.
庭園的東端是一條鋪滿碎石的筆直大道，自1878年出水神社建成以來，在這條路上舉辦「流鏑馬」（在飛奔的馬背上射響箭比賽）一直是神社春祭和秋祭的一部分。細川家族是日本「武田流」流鏑馬的代表，不過現在這項表演更像是宗教儀式而非武術。沿著這條大道，可以看到「肥後六花」中的五種：肥後山茶花、肥後茶梅、肥後芍藥、肥後菊和肥後花菖蒲。
At the eastern end of the garden is a straight avenue paved with gravel. Since the construction of Izumi Shrine in 1878, the "Yabusame" (Japanese horseback archery) has been held along this avenue as part of the shrine's spring and autumn festivals. The Hosokawa family is the representative of the Takeda-ryū Yabusame (Takeda School of Mounted Archery) in Japan, although now the performance is more of a religious ceremony than a martial art. Along this avenue, you can see five of the "Higo Rokka": Higo Camellia, Higo Camellia, Higo Peony, Higo Chrysanthemum, and Higo Iris.
「能樂殿」位於成趣園的南邊。始於14世紀的能劇，是將舞蹈、音樂和話劇融為一體的日本古典藝術的典範，也是世上現存最古老的歌舞表演藝術形式之一。細川忠利的祖父細川藤孝（1534-1610）是藩祖，也是一位活躍的能樂鼓手，所有細川家族成員因此都成為了能劇的熱心支持者。這座劇場初建於1878年，1965年被焚毀，現在的劇場是為紀念昭和天皇在位60周年，於1986年由舊八代城主松井家搬遷至此。在夏季的幾個月裡，這裡會在松明（火把）的照耀下舉辦夜間「薪火能樂」表演。
The Noh Theater is located south of the Seijuen Garden. Noh, originating in the 14th century, is a prime example of Japanese classical art, integrating dance, music, and drama, and is one of the oldest surviving forms of song and dance performance art in the world. Hosokawa Tadatoshi's grandfather, Hosokawa Fujitaka (1534-1610), was a feudal lord and an active Noh drummer, leading all members of the Hosokawa family to become enthusiastic supporters of Noh. The theater was initially built in 1878, destroyed by fire in 1965, and the current theater was moved here in 1986 by the Matsui family, the eighth lords of the castle, to commemorate the 60th anniversary of Emperor Showa's reign. During the summer months, evening Noh performances are held here under the glow of pine torches.
庭園的西端是有 400 年歷史的茅葺屋頂建築「古今傳授之間」。「古今傳授」即老師親自以口頭傳授《古今和歌集》的知識給得意門生的意思。在這裡喝杯抹茶，俯瞰池塘，欣賞庭園美景，甚是愜意。
At the western end of the garden is the 400-year-old thatched-roof building, "Kokin Denju-no-ma" (Kokin Denju Hall). "Kokin Denju" means that the teacher personally imparts knowledge of the Kokin Wakashū (Collection of Ancient and Modern Japanese Poems) orally to his favorite student. Enjoying a cup of matcha here, overlooking the pond, and admiring the beautiful garden scenery is truly delightful.
Katsuretsu Tei 勝烈亭豬排
我們在九州的最後一頓午餐，來到了名揚四海的勝烈亭。這家餐廳是當地的老字號，以其頂級豬排聞名。用餐體驗從一小碗烤芝麻開始，我們需要用木杵研磨。芝麻的香氣撲鼻而來，與濃稠鮮美的日式吉列酱混合後，便成了完美的沾醬。
食物端上來後，果然沒讓我們失望。炸豬排鮮嫩多汁，裹著一層輕盈酥脆的日式麵包糠，一點也不油膩。配上滿滿一大盤高麗菜絲和他們特製的醬汁，我們一行人都吃得津津有味。這道菜簡直是雨天裡最溫暖人心的「療癒系美食」。
For our final lunch in Kyushu, we headed to the legendary Katsuretsu Tei. This restaurant is a local institution, famous for its premium pork cutlets. The experience began with a small bowl of toasted sesame seeds, which we ground ourselves using a wooden pestle. The aroma was wonderful, and once we mixed the seeds into the thick, savory tonkatsu sauce, it created the perfect dip.
When the food arrived, it did not disappoint. The fried pork chops were incredibly tender and juicy, coated in light, crispy panko breadcrumbs that didn't feel greasy at all. Served with a mountain of shredded cabbage and their signature sauce, it was a meal that everyone in our group truly enjoyed. It was the ultimate 'comfort food' to warm us up on a rainy day.
Kumamoto Castle 熊本城
午餐過後，我們前往參觀名震全日的熊本城。這座別名「銀杏城」的建築，與姬路城、松本城並列為「日本三大名城」。它由名將加藤清正於 17 世紀初親自操刀，最令我印象深刻的是那被稱為「武者返」的獨特曲線石牆，雄偉的規模展現了當年極為嚴密的防禦機能。「武者返」的特色是下方坡度平緩，愈往上愈陡峭，甚至連身手矯健的忍者都難以攀爬，是熊本城的代表性象徵。
雖然現在看到的天守閣是 1960 年以混凝土重建的，但城內仍保留了數棟原始的木造建築，讓人得以窺見當年的丰采。天守閣在西南戰爭前夕曾遭遇一場原因不明的三天大火，付之一炬，現在的建築內部則成了豐富的博物館。據我所知大、小天守閣，有展示加藤氏與細川氏兩個封建家族的文物，以及關於西南戰爭的珍貴史料，讓人理解這座城池在歷史洪流中所承載的重量。另外據說，附近的「本丸御殿」內有非常華麗的「昭君之間」，裝飾著金碧輝煌的壁畫，是修復工程中的一大看點。
由於下午雨勢轉大，我們在雨中繞行了城堡外一圈後，便決定回到旅館提取行李，準備提早前往機場。特別令我們感動的是，旅館的工作人員非常體貼，一早就為我們每人準備了一把雨傘，讓我們在雨中仍能安心遊覽。這份細膩的關懷，再次讓我們深刻感受到了日本極致的服務精神（Omotenashi），為這次的九州之旅劃下了溫暖的句點。
看看我的健身追蹤器，我今天走了 5.6 英里——超過 13,507 步！
After lunch, we visited the renowned Kumamoto Castle. This castle, also known as the "Ginkgo Castle," is considered one of Japan's three great castles, along with Himeji Castle and Matsumoto Castle. Designed by the famous general Kato Kiyomasa in the early 17th century, its most striking feature is the unique curved stone wall known as the "Musha-gai" (warrior's return), its imposing scale showcasing the extremely robust defensive capabilities of its time. The "Mushagoku" is characterized by its gentle slope at the bottom, which becomes increasingly steep as you go up. Even agile ninjas would find it difficult to climb, making it a representative symbol of Kumamoto Castle.
Although the current castle tower is a concrete reconstruction from 1960, several original wooden buildings remain, offering a glimpse into its former glory. The castle tower was destroyed by a three-day fire of unknown origin just before the Satsuma Rebellion, and the interior now houses a rich museum. As far as I know, both the large and small castle towers display artifacts from the Kato and Hosokawa clans, as well as valuable historical materials about the Satsuma Rebellion, allowing one to understand the weight this castle has borne throughout history. In addition, it is said that the nearby "Honmaru Goten Palace" has a very magnificent "Shokun-no-ma" decorated with splendid murals, which is a major highlight of the restoration project.
As the rain intensified in the afternoon, we walked around the castle in the rain before deciding to return to the hotel to collect our luggage and head to the airport early. We were particularly touched by the hotel staff's thoughtfulness; they had prepared an umbrella for each of us early in the morning, allowing us to explore Kumamoto comfortably in the rain. This meticulous care once again deeply impressed us with the Japanese spirit of exceptional service (Omotenashi), bringing a warm conclusion to our Kyushu trip.
Looking at my fitness trackers, I had clocked 5.6 miles—over 13,507 steps today!
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