Japan Kyushu Travel Journal 日本九州旅行日記 7 - 2024.04.13 Sakurajima 櫻島

櫻島是一座雄偉的層狀火山,距離鹿兒島市僅四公里。它是世界上少數幾座常年活躍的火山之一。其山頂由三座山峰組成:北岳、中岳和南嶽,其中南嶽是目前最活躍的火山山峰。櫻島火山有著一段猛烈的歷史;1914年的大正火山爆發噴出了約 100 億噸熔岩——這一數量在世界歷史上前所未有。如此巨大的熔岩流掩埋了一條 400 公尺寬的海峽,將櫻島與大隅半島永久連接起來。

下了渡輪後,我們開始尋找午餐地點。我們漫步到一個感覺有些荒涼的區塊,那裡到處都是老舊破敗的建築。就在這裡,我們恰巧發現了一家名為「味処忠」的「古怪」小餐館。

入口幾乎被茂盛的植物遮蔽,我們費了好一會兒才找到入口。餐廳內部很小,只擺放了兩張桌子,裡面堆滿了充滿懷舊氣息的老物件和小擺設。餐廳由一對和藹可親的夫婦經營,雖然語言不通,他們還是讓我們感到輕鬆自在。

菜單全是日文,服務太太又不會說英語,點餐真是一大挑戰!不過,他們的熱情幫助我們了解菜單,最後端上來的菜餚也美味極了。感覺就像在火山腳下發現了一處秘密寶地。

Sakurajima is a formidable stratovolcano located just four kilometers from Kagoshima City. It is one of the few volcanoes in the world that remains constantly active. Its summit is composed of three peaks: Kita-dake (North), Naka-dake (Central), and Minami-dake (South), which is the most active today. The volcano has a violent history; the massive Taisho Eruption of 1914 released approximately 10 billion tons of lava—a quantity unparalleled in world history. The flow was so immense that it buried a 400-meter-wide strait, permanently connecting the former island to the Ōsumi Peninsula.

After getting off the ferry, we set out to find lunch. We wandered into an area that felt somewhat deserted, filled with older, run-down buildings. Tucked away here, we stumbled upon a "funky" little restaurant called Ajidokoro Tadashi (味処 忠).

The entrance was almost hidden behind an overgrown collection of plants, and it took us a moment just to figure out how to get inside. The interior was tiny—fitting only two tables—and was packed with a nostalgic collection of old items and knick-knacks. The restaurant is run by a lovely couple who made us feel instantly relaxed despite the language barrier.

With a menu entirely in Japanese and a hostess who didn't speak English, ordering was a challenge! However, their kindness helped us navigate the menu, and the meal we eventually received was absolutely delicious. It felt like a secret discovery in the shadow of the volcano.

Photo Date: 2024.04.13 Location: Ajidokoro Tadashi (味処 忠)

Sakurajima Volcanic Shore Park 櫻島熔岩海濱公園

午餐後,我們去櫻島熔岩海濱公園。這座公園直接建在 1914 年大正火山爆發形成的巨大熔岩流之上。沿著步道漫步,四周環繞著嶙峋的黑色火山岩,彷彿時間在此凝固。一邊是深藍色的錦江灣,另一邊是高聳入雲、冒著煙的火山峰。

公園最精彩的部分是櫻島熔岩足浴區。這是一個太棒的 100 公尺長的露天足浴池,水源來自地下 1000 公尺的天然溫泉。我們坐在木凳上,將疲憊的雙腳浸入溫暖的礦泉水中,靜靜地欣賞著遠處火山口升騰的蒸氣。

那真是夢幻般的體驗──腳下感受著大地的熱浪,眼前卻是平靜的大海。這裡是火山的磅礴氣勢與海洋的寧靜祥和完美融合的地方。最棒的是,這裡完全免費,因此深受當地人和遊客的喜愛,成為人們駐足欣賞美景的理想地方。

After lunch, we made our way to the Sakurajima Volcanic Shore Park. This park is built directly onto the massive lava flow from the 1914 Taisho eruption. Walking along the trail, you are surrounded by jagged, blackened volcanic rocks that look like they frozen in time. On one side is the deep blue of Kinko Bay, and on the other, the smoking peaks of the volcano tower over you.

The highlight of the park is the Nagisa Footbath. It is an incredible 100-meter-long outdoor footbath fed by natural hot springs found 1,000 meters underground. We sat on the wooden benches, dipped our tired feet into the warm mineral water, and just watched the steam rise from the crater in the distance.

It was a surreal experience—feeling the heat of the earth beneath us while looking out at the calm sea. It’s a place where the power of the volcano and the peacefulness of the ocean come together. Best of all, it’s completely free, making it a favorite spot for both locals and travelers to pause and soak in the view.

Walking towards the visitor center 走在往遊客中心的路上

Yunohira Observatory 湯之平展望台

從櫻島遊客中心出發,我們搭乘島景巴士,沿著蜿蜒的山路前往湯之平展望台。這裡是櫻島允許遊客到達的最高點。它位於北嶽山坡上,海拔 373 米,可欣賞 360 度全景。山頂的景色令人嘆為觀止。一邊是北岳崎嶇荒涼的山體,另一邊則是鹿兒島市和波光粼粼的錦江灣的壯麗全景。

站在那裡,我們能清楚地看到綠色的城市與火山灰覆蓋的灰色山坡之間的鮮明對比。我們甚至尋找了隱藏在天文台石牆中的「心形石」——傳說找到全部七顆心形石就能帶來幸福!可惜沒找到。

From Sakurajima Visitor Center, we caught the Island View Bus for the winding climb up to the Yunohira Observatory. This is the highest point on Sakurajima that visitors are allowed to reach. Situated 373 meters above sea level on the flank of Kita-dake, it offered a 360-degree view. The view from the top was breathtaking. On one side, we looked directly into the rugged, desolate face of Kita-dake (the Northern Peak). On the other side, we were treated to a stunning panoramic view of Kagoshima City across the shimmering Kinko Bay.

Standing there, we could see the contrast between the green city and the grey, ash-covered slopes of the volcano. We even looked for the 'Heart Rocks' hidden in the stone walls of the observatory—legend says that finding all seven will bring you happiness! Unfortunately, I couldn't find them.

從火山回來後,我們前往天門館文化通一帶吃晚餐。原本想去著名的黑豚料理 Ajimori (あぢもり),但由於沒有訂位,已經客滿了。於是我們臨時改去Kuroya Hanare (くろ屋離れ) 餐廳,被安排在一個鋪著榻榻米、名為「和室」的漂亮傳統日式房間裡用餐。

由於我們不懂日語,一開始並不知道這種私人傳統日式房間通常都有最低消費。這讓我們長了不少見識,最後為了湊夠最低消費額,我們只好額外點了一份菜。不過,食物真是美味極了。我們享用了黑豚涮涮鍋、火山岩烤肉拼盤(在火山上玩了一天之後,這道菜真是恰到好處)以及一份「海鮮寶盒」。當地豬肉的品質令人驚艷,傳統和室的氛圍也讓這頓飯彷彿是一場真正的鹿兒島文化盛宴。

看看我的健身追蹤器,我今天走了 4.5 英里——超過 10,617 步!

After returning from the volcano, we headed to the Tenmonkan Bunka Dori district for dinner. We had originally hoped to eat at the famous Ajimori, but without a reservation, they were fully booked. We pivoted and found Kuroya Hanare, where we were seated in a beautiful, traditional dining room, called washitsu with tatami mats.

As we didn't speak Japanese, we didn't realize at first that these private traditional settings often come with a minimum spending requirement. It was a learning experience for us, and we ended up ordering an extra dish to meet the total. However, the food was spectacular. We enjoyed a spread of Kurobuta (Black Pork) shabu-shabu, a Lava Rock Grill platter—fitting after our day on the volcano—and a 'Seafood Treasure Box.' The quality of the local pork was incredible, and the atmosphere of the traditional room made the meal feel like a true celebration of Kagoshima culture.

Looking at my fitness trackers, I had clocked 4.5 miles—over 10,617 steps today!

🚆 Stay tuned for more of our Kyushu, Japan adventures!

World Through My Eyes (Photographs) Posts/我鏡頭裏的世(視)界帖子

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