We stayed at Mesa Verde National Park for just a little over half a day, then drove to Arches National Park. Arches is located in southeast Utah, about five miles north of Moab. The park contains more than 2,000 natural sandstone arches—the highest density of natural arches in the world. It is also one of the most popular national parks in the U.S.
When we arrived around 3 o’clock in the afternoon, it still took us 30–40 minutes to get through the entrance line. I saw the following alert on the park’s website when I wrote this post in 2021: “The park is currently full, and we are temporarily delaying entries into the park. Vehicles attempting to enter will have to come back at another time.”
Arches National Park is open 24 hours a day, year-round. I suggest visiting as early as possible to avoid long wait times or being turned away.
我們在梅薩維德國家公園待了半天多一點，然後開車前往拱門國家公園。拱門國家公園位於猶他州東南部，位於摩押(Moab)以北約五英里處。公園內有超過 2000 座天然砂岩拱門，是世界上天然拱門密度最高的地區。它也是美國最受歡迎的國家公園之一。
當我們下午三點左右到達時，仍然花了三、四十分鐘才排到入口。我在 2021 年寫這篇文章時，在公園的網站上看到了以下提示：“公園目前已滿，我們將暫時停止遊客入園。試圖進入的車輛需要擇日再來。”
拱門國家公園全年 24 小時開放。我建議儘早前往，以免長時間排隊等候或被拒之門外。
Park Map (Click to enlarge the map)
Click here for Interactive Park Map from National Park Service
Delicate Arch viewpoint 精緻拱門觀景點
The most famous Delicate Arch Trail is 3.0 miles long with an elevation gain of 480 ft. It was so hot in the afternoon that we weren’t sure we could make it to the top, so we decided to go to the Delicate Arch viewpoints instead. The Lower Viewpoint is only 100 yards, and the Upper Viewpoint is 0.5 miles. After seeing Delicate Arch from afar, we felt we had to hike the Delicate Arch Trail to make our trip worthwhile, so we decided to go on the trail the next morning.
最著名的精緻拱門步道全長 3 英里，海拔上升 480 英尺。下午天氣炎熱，我們不確定能否登頂，於是決定改去精緻拱門觀景點。下觀景點只有 100 碼，上觀景點則有 0.5 英里。遠遠地欣賞了精緻拱門之後，我們覺得非得走一走精緻拱門步道才算不虛此行，所以決定第二天早上去。
Most people stay in Moab, which is about 15 minutes from the park. You may also encounter traffic jams since many visitors stay there. We chose to drive a little farther (50 minutes) to Green River to save on lodging costs.
大多數人選擇住在摩押（Moab），那裡距離公園約 15 分鐘車程。由於遊客眾多，您可能會遇到交通擁堵。為了節省住宿費用，我們選擇開車稍微遠一點（50 分鐘車程）前往格林河（Green River）。
On the way to Arches NP from Green River
Driving from Green River to Arches National Park is easy, and the scenery is enjoyable as well.
從格林河開車到拱門國家公園很方便，沿途風景也很宜人。
On the way to Delicate Arch inside Arches NP
Long lines formed at the park entrance again. Because parking spaces at the Delicate Arch trailhead are limited, we didn’t stop at any viewpoints and drove directly to the parking lot early in the morning. We were lucky—we got the last parking spot after circling the lot a second time. Weather is another concern, as summer daytime temperatures can reach 110°F. Heat and dehydration can be dangerous. Visiting early and bringing plenty of water will make the hike safer and easier.
公園入口處再次排起了長隊。由於精緻拱門步道起點的停車位有限，我們沒有在任何觀景點停留，而是在清晨直接開車前往停車場。我們很幸運——在停車場繞了兩圈後，終於找到了最後一個停車位。天氣也是一個需要考慮的因素，因為夏季白天的氣溫可能高達華氏 110 度（約攝氏 43度）。可能會遇到高溫和脫水的危險。早點出發並攜帶充足的水會讓健行更安全、更輕鬆。
Delicate Arch Trail 精緻拱門步道
Water and ice, extreme temperature swings, and the slow but powerful movement of underground salt have shaped the remarkable rock formations that define Arches National Park. Scattered across the landscape are more than 2,000 cataloged arches, ranging from a modest 3-foot opening—the smallest size officially recognized as an arch—to the sweeping span of Landscape Arch, stretching an impressive 306 feet from base to base. Each arch has a character of its own, sculpted by time and the elements.
The iconic Delicate Arch, perhaps the most celebrated of them all, stands like a solitary sentinel on the edge of a sandstone bowl, with the snow-capped La Sal Mountains rising dramatically in the background. It draws countless visitors who come to witness its elegant, freestanding curve glowing in the changing light.
The light opening beneath the arch is 46 feet high and 32 feet wide, making it the largest free-standing arch in the park. It has had more than a few names in its history, from the colorful ("Cowboy's Chaps", "Old Maid's Bloomers") to the prosaic ("Salt Wash Arch"). The term "Delicate" first appeared in a January 1934 article about the Arches National Monument Scientific Expedition, which described it as "the most delicately chiseled arch in the entire area."
The Delicate Arch Trail will lead you to see Delicate Arch up close and in person. Although it is only 3 miles long with an elevation gain of 480 feet, the journey can be challenging. The open slickrock, steep sections, and sun exposure test even seasoned hikers. But reaching the top and watching the arch come into view—radiant, immense, and breathtaking—makes every step worthwhile. Along the trail, you will also pass the Wolfe Ranch cabin and a wall of Ute Indian petroglyphs.
水與冰、極端溫差以及地下鹽層緩慢而強大的移運，共同塑造了拱門國家公園令人嘆為觀止的岩層地形。公園內散佈著 2000 多座有列入目錄的拱門，從最小的拱門（開口僅 3 英尺）到雄偉的景觀拱門（從底部到底部長達 306 英尺），大小不一。每一座拱門都有其獨特的特色，由時間和自然元素雕刻而成。
具代表性的精緻拱門或許是所有拱門中最著名的，它像一位孤獨的哨兵般矗立在砂岩碗狀地形的邊緣，遠處是白雪皚皚的拉薩爾山脈，氣勢磅礴。無數遊客慕名而來，只為一睹它在變幻的光影中熠熠生輝的優雅獨立式的弧線。
拱門下方的光口高 46 英尺，寬 32 英尺，使其成為公園內最大的獨立式拱門。在其歷史上，它曾有過不少名字，從色彩繽紛的（如「牛仔皮褲」、「老處女的燈籠褲」）到平淡無奇的（如「鹽洗拱門」）。 「精緻」一詞最早出現在 1934 年 1 月一篇關於拱門國家紀念碑科學考察的文章中，文章將其描述為「整個地區雕琢最精巧的拱門」。
精緻拱門步道可帶您近距離目睹精緻拱門的壯麗景色。雖然步道全長僅 3 英里長，海拔上升 480 英尺，但這段旅程充滿挑戰。開闊的光滑岩石、陡峭的路段以及強烈的日曬，即使是經驗豐富的健行者也會感到吃力。然而，當你到達山頂，看到那耀眼奪目、氣勢磅礴、令人嘆為觀止的拱門映入眼簾時，你會覺得每一步都值得。沿著步道，你還會經過沃爾夫牧場小屋和一面刻有尤特印第安人岩畫的牆壁。
當你到達頂端時，你會驚訝地發現有多少人排隊等著與精緻拱門合影。
Fiery Furnace Viewpoint 熔爐觀景點
The Fiery Furnace is a natural labyrinth of narrow passages between towering sandstone walls. The area is a popular hiking destination that was named for the reddish hue it exhibits in sunset light. There are many possible routes, you encounter numerous dead ends, and it can be easy to get lost. Although there are small markers for one counterclockwise route in the Fiery Furnace, many other paths exist. GPS units do not work well due to the towering sandstone walls, so relying on them is not recommended. Visitors must accompany a ranger-guided hike or obtain a Self-Guided Exploration permit before your visit. Both must be reserved through Recreation.gov. We didn't hike; we just looked around at viewpoint.
熔爐是一處天然迷宮，由高聳的砂岩壁間狹窄的通道組成。這裡是熱門的健行目的地，因其在日落時分呈現出的紅色色調而得名。這裡有很多條路線，你會遇到很多死路，很容易迷路。雖然在熔爐裡有一條逆時針方向的路線標記，但實際上還有許多其他路徑。由於高聳的砂岩壁遮擋，GPS 設備訊號不佳，因此不建議依賴 GPS 導航。遊客必須參加由護林員帶領的導覽團，或在參觀前獲得自助探索許可。兩者都必須透過 Recreation.gov 網站預訂。我們沒有健行，只在觀景台四處看看。
On the way to Sand Dune Arch and Broke Arch area
Sand Dune Arch Trail 沙丘拱门步道
The Sand Dune Arch trail is an easy, 0.4-mile (0.6 km) roundtrip hike that leads to a secluded arch nestled between tall sandstone walls. The trail features walking through deep sand and a narrow canyon section, making it a fun and popular family-friendly option, though it is not wheelchair accessible. The hike is short, taking about 15–30 minutes, and the sandy area around the arch provides a great place for kids to play.
沙丘拱門步道是一條輕鬆的往返健行路線，全程僅 0.4 英里（0.6公里），通往一座隱匿於高聳砂岩壁間的幽靜拱門。步道有一段穿越厚厚沙層和狹窄峽谷的路段，因此非常適合全家一起同遊，趣味十足，但不適合輪椅通行。全程健行大約需要 15-30 分鐘，拱門周圍的沙地是孩子們玩耍的好去處。
Broken Arch Trail 破裂拱門步道
The Broken Arch Trail is a popular hike, offering either a 1.8-mile loop or a 1.2-mile out-and-back route. It’s known for being relatively easy while still delivering impressive views of the large arch—one that appears fractured at a glance but isn’t actually “broken.” The trail also connects to the Sand Dune Arch Trail, adding even more to explore. Despite its reputation as an easy hike, the sun can be relentless, reflecting off the sand and slickrock and making the journey feel much longer. Still, reaching Broken Arch is worth every step. Its graceful curve reminded me of the shape of a heart, and standing beneath it felt breathtaking—quiet, majestic, and unexpectedly moving.
破裂拱門步道是一條熱門健行路線，提供 1.8 英里的環線和 1.2 英里的往返路線。這條步道聲稱還蠻容易走的，同時還能欣賞到令人嘆為觀止的大型拱門美景——乍看之下，它似乎斷裂了，但實際上並沒有「斷裂」。這條步道也與沙丘拱門步道相連，為健行愛好者提供了更多探索的機會。雖然破裂拱門步道以輕鬆著稱，但陽光十分強烈，反射在沙地和光滑的岩石上，讓人感覺路途更加漫長。然而，抵達破裂拱門的每一步都值得。它優美的弧線讓我想起了心形，站在拱門下，那種感覺令人屏息——靜謐、雄偉，又出乎意料地令人感動。
Skyline Arch Trail 天際線拱門
Even though I was tired, we continued on to a short, 0.4-mile out-and-back hike along a well-defined trail that leads to an arch high in a sandstone wall. In 1940, a large boulder suddenly fell out of Skyline Arch, roughly doubling the size of its opening. You can still see the remnants of this rockfall at the base of Skyline Arch, about 0.2 miles (0.3 km) down the trail.
儘管我很累，我們還是繼續沿著一條小徑走了一段 0.4 英里（約 640 公尺）的往返路程，這條小徑通往砂岩牆上高聳的一座拱門。 1940年，一塊巨石突然從天際線拱門墜落，讓拱門的開口面積大約擴大了一倍。在天際拱門底部仍然可以看到這次落石的遺跡，大約在小徑下方 0.2 英里（約320公尺）處。
After finishing the Skyline Arch trail, we took a lunch break and found a shady spot to eat our sandwiches. It felt incredibly refreshing to rest for a moment.
走完天際線拱門步道後，我們停下來吃午飯，找了個陰涼的地方吃三明治。休息片刻感覺無比神清氣爽。
Devils Garden 惡魔花園
After lunch, we proceeded to Devils Garden, located at the very end of the park road, 18 miles north of the Arches Visitor Center. Here you’ll find arches, spires, and a large concentration of narrow rock walls called “fins.” Fins form when rainwater erodes parallel fractures created by the uplift of salt deposits beneath the surface. Over time, fins continue to erode and can eventually give way to arches like Landscape Arch, the crown jewel of Devils Garden.
Landscape Arch is the longest arch in North America, with a light opening of 306 feet. This awe-inspiring span is only six feet thick at its narrowest point. The Landscape Arch Trail is 1.8 miles long and moderately easy. From this trail, there are also short side trips to Tunnel Arch and Pine Tree Arch. This area also includes the difficult 4.2-mile Double Arch Trail and the challenging 7.9-mile Devils Garden Loop.
Since it was extremely hot in the afternoon, we walked a short distance before turning around. I'll visit this place again when I have the chance.
午餐後，我們前往惡魔花園，它位於公園道路的盡頭，在拱門遊客中心以北 18 英里處。在這裡，你會看到拱門、尖頂，以及很多被稱為「鰭狀岩」的狹窄岩壁。鰭狀岩的形成是由於雨水侵蝕地表下鹽層隆起形成的平行裂縫。隨著時間的推移，鰭狀岩不斷被侵蝕，最終會形成像景觀拱門(Landscape Arch)這樣的拱門，它是魔鬼花園的瑰寶。
景觀拱門是北美最長的拱門，開口寬度達 306 英尺（約 94 公尺）。這座令人嘆為觀止的拱門最窄處僅有 6 英尺（約 1.8 公尺）厚。景觀拱門步道全長 1.8 英哩（約 2.9 公里），難度適中。從這條步道出發，還可以前往隧道拱門(Tunnel Arch)和松樹拱門(Pine Tree Arch)。這地區還有難度較高的 4.2 英里長的雙圈拱門(Double Arch)步道和具有挑戰性的 7.9 英里長的魔鬼花園環線(Devils Garden Loop)。
由於下午天氣炎熱，我們只走了一小段路就回頭了。這裏留到以後有機會再來造訪了。
Drive towards the entrance 開車往進口處去
Garden of Eden 伊甸園
From Devils Garden to the Garden of Eden, I’m not sure how these areas got their names. What I do know is that Devils Garden contains several difficult trails, while the Garden of Eden has no specific trail—just easy climbs to higher ground where you can enjoy the views.
從惡魔花園到伊甸園，我不太清楚這些地方名字的由來。但我知道惡魔花園裡有好幾條難度較高的健行路線，而伊甸園則沒有特定的路線——只有一些可以輕鬆爬到高處欣賞風景的小路。
The Windows Section 石窗區
Our final stop in the park was the Windows Section, considered by some to be the beating heart of Arches National Park. This area contains a large concentration of arches and is one of the most scenic locations in the park. North Window, Turret Arch, and Double Arch are just a few of the awe-inspiring formations found within its two square miles. Other named features in this area include the Garden of Eden, Elephant Butte, and Parade of Elephants.
我們在公園的最後一站是「石窗區」，這裡被一些人認為是拱門國家公園的核心地帶。這區域聚集了許多的拱門，是公園裡風景最優美的地點之一。北窗(North Window)、砲塔拱門(Turret Arch)和雙拱門(Double Arch)是這兩平方英里範圍內眾多令人嘆為觀止的地貌中的幾個。這區域的其他著名景點還包括伊甸園、象山(Elephant Butte)和象群(Parade of Elephants)。
Drive towards the entrance/exit 開車往進口/出口處去
I wish I had had the stamina to walk more trails and stay longer. There were so many unique arches worth visiting. I hope I have the opportunity to return someday with more energy to explore even more of them.
我真希望自己有足夠的精力去走更多的小徑，多待些時間。那裡有很多獨特的拱門值得一看。我希望將來有機會能帶著更充沛的精力重返此地，探索更多拱門。
Wildflowers 野花
Flashback 回顧 1999.07.09-10
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